neil morse
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Posts posted by neil morse
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I second what Matt says. I'm using the 140 weight on his recommendation, and my transmission seems very happy. Shifting is smooth and quiet.
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Matt, I don't want to hijack Eddie's thread, but thanks for that tip about the '42 manual. I hadn't heard about that.
Neil
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On 3/31/2020 at 7:04 AM, Jeff Perkins / Mn said:
My cars I have to make like a monkey to get at the valves for adjustment. Yours look like a direct shot......
I commented earlier in this thread about the easy access to the transmission and clutch with the removable floorboard. The "fender window" is another example. Those MoPar engineers had real sympathy for the mechanics who would actually be working on the cars -- unlike the seeming attitude of the engineers who designed my Buick!
You are doing a great job and having a lot of fun, Keith! Your enthusiasm really comes through in your video narration. Thank you for sharing this project.
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That's great news, but I think you meant to say "Neil" and not "Keith." (I know that Keith and I have similar avatars, posed in front of a maroon '41 wearing a fedora!) 😄
As I said, that was the outcome I was hoping you would have since replacing the sending unit is much easier than dealing with a broken gauge or a grounded wire. If you look on my thread, you will find my description of dropping the tank -- it turned out to be much easier than I thought it would be.
Neil
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Wow, what a beauty. I really understand what you say about having to take a peek into the garage to really believe that she's in there and she's YOURS! 😄 I admired this car on the seller's website before you nabbed it.
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You're very welcome, of course.
And to answer your other question, yes, there's no reason why you couldn't "cheat" in the way you suggest if you run a new wire. It would be much easier to splice a new wire in at the gauge end, and it doesn't need to be super close to the gauge where you do it. The original wire from the gauge goes to the six-pin connector up near the parking brake handle that joins the front harness to the rear harness. On the other side of the connector, the wires go up the A-pillar and under the headliner and then back to the trunk. But you obviously don't need to do that if you end up running a new wire. Just drill a hole from the trunk and run the wire under the carpet, up into the area behind the kick panel, and then splice it onto the old wire somewhere between the gauge and the six-pin connector.
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Yes, here are a few pics. You can see from underneath where the wire comes over the top of the tank and goes through the hole into the trunk. On my car there are two wires because I ran a dedicated ground to the sending unit when I put in the new one. On your car, you should see a single wire in the same spot, more or less. There should be a rubber grommet around that hole, but I didn't bother finding one to put on mine when I put the new wires in. But this raises a thought in my mind -- it's a long shot, but if the grommet is also missing on your car and the wire got chaffed from rubbing against the bare metal, this might be a place where it's grounding out.
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Wow, your trunk looks like a comfortable place to crawl in take a nap! 😄
If I were you, I would definitely try to pry up the carpet in the left rear trunk floor and see what you can find. I can't remember for sure, but I think that if you look underneath, you will be able to see the wire coming from the sending unit where it comes out on top of the tank and goes through a hole in the trunk floor. That would help you to locate exactly where you need to pry the carpet up. In fact, I'll go down and take a peek at my car right now. Nothing else to do these days! I'll be right back.
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I'm hoping for your sake that it goes to full when you disconnect the wire. That will mean dropping the tank and replacing the sending unit, but I actually think that will be less work than finding where the wire is grounding or, even worse, having to replace the gauge. And it would give you a chance to see what the inside of the tank looks like and have it sandblasted and coated if need be. Good luck and keep us posted.
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Another pristine MoPar! It will be really interesting to see what this one goes for.
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Matt has a good memory. My gauge had the opposite problem -- it was stuck on full. So the diagnostic procedure was different. Grounding the wire from the gauge to the sending unit resulted in the gauge going to empty. This showed that the problem was with the sending unit, and the replacement sender I got from Bob's cured the problem.
For Peter's problem (as Bill Anderson explains), the diagnosis requires disconnecting the wire from the gauge to the sender. I can tell you that removing the wire at the gauge end is a royal PITA. There is very little room to work under the dash as far as getting access to the back of the gauges. I had my panel out when I put in a new wiring harness, but without removing the panel I can tell you it will be very difficult.
At the sender end, however, you get a break. Normally, you would have to go ahead and drop the tank in order to get access to the sender to disconnect the wire from the gauge unit. But there is a bayonet-style connector in this line that you should be able to get access to in the trunk without too much difficulty. At least on the sedan, the wire from the sender enters the trunk through a hole in the trunk floor on the driver's side. The connector should be about a foot farther along the wire, which is tucked up under the trunk liner where it gets bundled with the tail light wires. I assume the coupe is the same. Disengage the bayonet connector, and you should get your answer whether the problem is in the gauge or not.
Neil
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My Dad bought a new '55 Plymouth wagon with a V-8 as our family car in 1955 when I was 7 years old. Four years later, it threw a rod. Dad was so distrustful of the V-8 that he went out and bought a '59 wagon with the flathead 6. I always thought it was bizarre that such a "modern" car was powered by such an old-fashioned engine. Standard 3-speed transmission, too. My Dad was quite frugal when it came to automotive purchases! 😄
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Yes, and the Hudson and the Nash look awfully good, too, although a bit more expensive than the Chrysler and the Pontiac. Time to get down to Shreveport before this guy changes his mind! 😄
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Not to nitpick, but wasn't it Mikey who liked it? 😄
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Be still my heart! That Chrysler looks like an astonishing deal. Yet another great MoPar. If I had room for more than one car, I would be sorely tempted.
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Speaking for myself, the black vinyl (especially including the headliner) just looks horrible. Don't get me wrong -- I think the price of the car is very reasonable. But the interior is so radically different from a correct, original-style interior, that I would not be able to live with it. Here's what it should look like:
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Nice car, and what seems like a reasonable price. Too bad about the interior, though.
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Wow, this is the third Studebaker that has tempted me in the past month or so. Looks like a great car at a reasonable price.
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So is she seaworthy or not? Hard to tell from the description.
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On 3/22/2020 at 4:08 AM, JohnD1956 said:
May I ask; if the pcv hose is used with w flat non venting filler cap AND there is no road draft tube, where does air enter the engine to provide scavaging of the vapors?
There is an "inlet" crankcase vent on the left side of the engine, under the exhaust manifold. It's visible in this pic of my bad core plug.
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Just to further muddy the waters, here's an excerpt from an article by Bill Anderson on the Buick Heritage Alliance webpage:
10 mm Spark Plugs
The 10 mm spark plugs introduced in 1941 frequently fouled leading to many complaints. This was not the fault of the smaller plug as many believed, but was principally caused by poor quality fuel than available. The problem was of sufficient concern that the factory authorized revisions to the head to use 14 mm plugs (a simple machining operation because the heads were originally cast for use with 14 mm plugs). However, for those with engines still equipped today with 10 mm plugs, the quality of today's fuel obviates the need to change to 14 mm plugs.
PVC System Modifications
The simple PVC system introduced in 1941 was blamed for coking of the carburetor jets. As a result, Buick offered a kit to eliminate the valve cover to air cleaner connection and install a valve cover breather and crankcase breather tube discharging to the atmosphere. The 1946 and later models used a valve cover and crankcase breather as Buick abandoned the PVC system until it was required by the federal government in the 1960s.
https://www.buickheritagealliance.org/index.php/restoration/engines/straight_8
However, my car has both the PCV tube AND a breather cap, like the first pic you posted. My engine also has no road draft tube. And my car also has the 14 mm spark plugs. So I think it's safe to say that there are a lot of variations out there, given the changes made both at the factory and by dealers doing the "factory authorized revisions."
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.jpg.e0ebadf5f3a6f40a15c0b12bf908dc67.jpg)
'41 fuel gauge
in Buick - Pre War
Posted
Hi Peter:
Great work! This is the sender I got from Bob's, which will work for your car since I see that you have a rubber hose connection to the fuel line like I do.
https://bobsautomobilia.com/fuel-system/gas-tank-sender-1936-56-fs-368/
It has a metal float. The one I replaced (which I assume was the original) had a cork float. I just went with what Bob had, and it has been working fine.
On my car, the filler pipe just dropped down without hitting the exhaust so it was easy to fully remove the tank. Given your situation, I can understand why you didn't remove it altogether, but it would be nice to get a peek inside and see what kind of shape it's in. Did you lower it enough so you could get your cell phone camera in position to take a shot through the hole for the sender? That's what I did (easy with the tank fully removed, of course), and I found a lot of rust on the inside of the tank as you know from the pics I posted on my thread. I'm just thinking that it might be worth your while to wrestle with that filler pipe if the inside of the tank looks as nasty as mine did.