neil morse
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Posts posted by neil morse
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Haha -- Don just emailed me with the same advice (except that he didn't say "silk" thread -- I guess Konrad only uses the very best!). Don't worry, Konrad, both you and Don have educated me about the evils of RTV. I never touch the stuff, honest, I don't even have any in my garage!
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1 hour ago, Ben Bruce aka First Born said:
You did good, Neil.
Hey, let's not get ahead of ourselves, I'm not done yet.
However, my Dante Red paint showed up yesterday and I sprayed the pan this afternoon. I should be putting everything back together tomorrow afternoon.
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59 minutes ago, avgwarhawk said:
I remove the entire coil assemblies. In doing so I'm free to lift the entire axle into the wells allowing level drive train, no binding at the ball and do not need a come along to separate.
Fair enough. I did not mean to criticize your approach. In my case, we were removing the transmission anyway in order to rebuild it, so we used the "come along" method and rolled the rear axle back just far enough to stick the tube up over the transmission while we got the transmission out. Then reversed the process on reassembly.
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7 hours ago, avgwarhawk said:
Left-hand threads driver's side top and bottom mount.
On the '41, the threads are left-hand on the bottom and right hand on top, both sides. You only need to remove the keepers on the bottom, of course. But they will both be left-handed so beware! (As you will see if you check my thread, a previous owner had stripped the left-handed threads on one side on my car -- something we fixed when I did my transmission job.)
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I missed this Matt because I don't usually check this forum. If you look on my "Me and My Buick" thread, there's quite a detailed discussion of the torque ball seal replacement. I did it with the transmission removed. I think doing it with the transmission in place would be a challenge, although I didn't have a lift, of course.
The kit from Bob's comes with a rubber seal instead of a cork one, but you still have to deal with the paper shims. That's explained in my thread. Just PM me if you have any questions and I will try to answer them.
Neil
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10 minutes ago, TexRiv_63 said:
I cannot for the life of me understand why anyone would chop the top on a design like this.
Agreed. And the roof line is another thing they ruined starting in '40. They raised the roof and made it look bulbous. It lost that gorgeous streamlined look. And '39 was also the last year of the great dash design with the "capstan" look.
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As has been said, you need compressible copper washers on those bolts to seal them. Plus a bit of RTV sealant on them is good for insurance.
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14 hours ago, RivNut said:
If you don't remember her in the movie, you'll never forget her in the dress.
As an 11-year-old at the time, I will absolutely say that I found that dress unforgettable and fascinating! 😄
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I've prepped the oil pan for paint and sprayed some primer on it yesterday. Everything else is ready to go, but I'm still waiting for my Dante Red -- and now the USPS tracking site just says the package is "in transit" with no updates for five days. Never a good sign. Grrrrrr.
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This photo of a '39 just happened to appear in another thread currently on this forum. I rest my case.
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6 hours ago, Ed Luddy said:
Yes for all you Buick lovers south of the border, this is a smokin' deal!
I guess it depends on what you've been smokin'. 😜 Did you see the interior? If it were a Century, maybe. But this still seems like a lot of money for a car in this condition.
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5 hours ago, Lawrence Helfand said:
All angles gorgeous except the front which is a weird disconnected combination of design elements that do not relate to each other. Looks like a mish mosh of ideas thrown together and the flat looking windshield is less then elegant. A split glass with a little angle would help. Side and rear are exquisite but earlier front end is much prettier. How you can go from the perfection of a 41 Continental front end to this is a mystery to me.
I agree. This is an early example of how gorgeous original designs are ruined when they are "updated" for marketing reasons. The Zephyr coupe was perfect in '36, and managed to retain most of its original beauty with the moderate changes up through '41. After that, yikes -- what were they thinking?
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This looks like a winner -- but you better have a big garage!
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20 hours ago, Elpad said:
That pic could only have been taken in one place -- our beloved city by the bay! In addition to the Buick in the foreground, note the Continental convertible seven cars down the line.
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Konrad, thanks so much for doing those drawings and posting them here! I understand the pump so much better now.
Also, just to clarify things for people who may have been trying to keep score, I previously posted that I got a Plastigauge reading of .002 on the clearance. That was true at the time. After reading Konrad's first post, I looked at the case and decided I might as well do some gentle lapping on the case side since it looked a little rough. So the second Plastigauge reading of .0015 shown in the photo Konrad posted was after I lapped the case. I was happy with that and quit while I was ahead. As Don wisely said in an email to me, "be careful, if you make things so pretty that the pump binds, you'll be buying a new pump."
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Relax Konrad -- just pulling your chain. I would call it a "curved doohickey that moves up and down."
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You better believe it is! (Although I've never heard it called such a fancy name.) 😄
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Photo taken outside the home of Jimmy "the weasel" Fratianno in 1951. Jimmy was a Buick man?
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Pump all rebuilt and ready to reinstall.
I just have to finish cleaning up and repainting the pan, and I'll be ready to put everything back together.
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What a beauty!
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7 hours ago, Elpad said:
Two Edsels in a single photo -- that's more remarkable than the Buick!
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Neil's '41 Super Model 51
in Me and My Buick
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I just threaded the gasket to the pan -- but with mercerized cotton thread. It's not a Porsche, after all, just a Buick. 😄 A great tip for a way to keep the gasket in place while you're installing the pan.