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neil morse

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Posts posted by neil morse

  1. Thanks for that explanation, Ted.  Very interesting, as George says.  One difference I noticed between your car and the cars in both the photo I posted and the one you posted is that the hood louver doors are solid color in the posted photos instead of being chrome-plated like yours.

     

    George, according to The Old Motor, the bike in the photo is a Harley "equipped with a Cycletow conversion kit."  

     

    http://theoldmotor.com/?p=118925

    • Like 1
  2. Hi Phil:

     

    Welcome, I see you are new here. I suggest that you send Pete Phillips a PM (private message) to ask your question.  This an old thread that was not started by him, so the chances that he would see your post are pretty remote.  If you use the PM feature (click on the envelope symbol on the top right corner of the page), you can send a message directly to him.

     

    Neil

  3. This looks like an awfully nice deal, asking $15,200 obo.  Brand new interior, rebuilt engine, chrome and paint look good.  Another solid MoPar.

     

    55_Dodge.thumb.jpg.bd45b9754ab551c3667777c178b3488b.jpg

     

     

     

    https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/cars-for-sale/dodge/coronet/2409889.html?refer=saturday&utm_source=saturday&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=2020-06-27

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    • Like 3
  4. 6 hours ago, Elpad said:

    3107D050-45F5-44A4-8D36-DF29869ECD7E.jpeg

     

    A great shot of the cable car turn-around at Powell and Market in my home town.  I love the fact that the lady in the gray coat is already boarding the car, even though it has just barely made the turn to reverse direction and start up Powell Street.

  5. I just measured the tank on my Super sedan, which should be the same as your Roadmaster, and it was 10" from the front edge of the tank to the center of the filler pipe.  As I read the diagrams in Bob's catalog, this is the measurement they are talking about, i.e., from the front edge of the tank, not from the back edge.

     

    fuel_tank.jpg.357e35fab61aedfac5a8b816fbf4b2e5.jpg

    Hope that helps.

  6. Yes, I should have added that the accelerator switch needs to be disabled if you're going to do the bypass/starter button wiring the way I mentioned.  As Jim says, you don't want to have the two switches trying to work at the same time.

  7. It's very difficult to answer your question without more information.  As Jim mentions, the car was originally wired with a vacuum starter switch on the carburetor that was activated by the accelerator.  Did you bypass this switch, or was the car like that when you got it?  On my car, there are just two wires running from the starter button out to the poles for the vacuum switch.  When you hit the button, it makes the connection that would have been made by the accelerator switch, and the car starts. When I re-wired my car, I left it this way since (1) it’s simple, and (2) it leaves all the other wiring in place so someone can later go back to the vacuum switch if they want to.  If your car was wired the same way, there wouldn't be a wire "from the key to the push button start."  So you may be looking in the wrong place. 

    • Thanks 1
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