jframe

Thanks for the info. Going to try to cross those Monday and see if I can come up with something. Need either a smaller pcv valve or a grommet with a larger ID. Thing is, every outlet shows the one I nought to be correct, so maybe I just ain't holding my mouth right putting it in, but it is a ridiculously tight fit.

Anybody got a part number that is an original GM number for these 2 items? I bought the ac delco 19110477 grommet and 19310783 valve from Rock Auto. The valve seems to match the old one, but it won't even start to go into the new grommet. I was hoping for numbers from the parts book I might cross over.

Anybody tried the American Classic 225/75-15 on a 65? I have one for a spare, and like the look of the SOMEWHAT wider whitewall. Just wondered about the ride and handling characteristics over my Firestone FR710's that are in 215/70-15.

Not sure that they really DID make money, or at least not very much of it. Think about it; the Riv was a halo car, a showroom draw. Pretty expensive to buy and manufacture. Hopefully, people who saw one in the showroom might come out with a LeSabre, or at least a Skylark. Of course, that makes it all the more confusing as to why so little interchanged.

Ed, you are certainly right about all of that! I wonder why GM was treating this car like a Ford (part off a blue one won't fit a black one), lol. What I really meant was a lot of the engine parts may interchange as well as other hard mechanical parts. However, you are right about transmissions, hubs and so forth. Hard to believe a car that looks so similar for three years can be so unique.

DON'T give up on that 65! I wanted one since I was very small, and got this one 2 years ago when I was 46. Has 67,000 miles on it now and all original except paint. They are out there; don't settle for anything less than what you really want. Buy that 63 and save the good parts for your future 65.

Will a Borg Warner R353 work? It crosses from that Standard number, and sure looks correct

I just went on our Oreilly site here at the shop, and that number wont come up at all anymore

Winston, I just bought 2 of the Borg Warners from my Oreills a coiple weeks back. They ordered them no problem, but I suspect they will just phase out existing inventory til they are either gone, or considered obsolete. Such is the parts business, ask me how I know, lol. My car has two on it now, but I cannot open the visors and have the lights be off. Thought if I replaced them both, they may work properly.

I am wanting to replace the bushings on the strut rods on my 65 than run from the lower control arms to the front of the frame. Will the car need a new alignment if we take these loose for replacement? Prolly going to replace the sway bar end links and frame bushings too, but that shouldn't be an issue.

I have mine. Wanted one of these since I was about six years old, and saw pictures of the Midnight Blue one my Dad bought new at Krajenke Buick in Detroit. We took me home as a newborn in it, moved to Alabama in it, and he finally traded it in 1971 as a six year old used car with 90,000 miles and rusted rockers on a new 1971 LTD 2 door hardtop. But that Riv was IT for me, and always has been. It took 40 years of wanting one, and being in the right position at the right time to get this one, but I finally got lucky 2 1/2 years ago, and bought this. It has 66,000 miles and drives like a dream. All original except paint. Without a doubt, one of the BEST cars on the road, and a dream come true for me.

Wow, THAT would be a revolting development, lol. Right now, it's starting fine in Park AND Neutral. May have just not been in the detent good, or like Seafoam said, may need an adjustment as well.

If I can't seem to get my small leak problem with mine solved, I may be in for a new one as well. I really think mine is just a situation that will require the right gasket for the sender, but it sure would be nice to have the option of a new tank if needed.

Good possiblilty, I didn't actually take anything apart; I'm just going to drive for a bit and see how it does. Got to get this stupid gas leak fixed first. Hopefully the proper sending unit gasket from CARS will do the trick.

Well, the no crank issue appears to possibly be a neutral safety switch thing. Came home from work, tried to start in Park, and nothing. Pulled it back to neutral, and it spun right over. Cranked it again in Park 2 or 3 more times.

Brand new battery and cables. Both clean. I really need to go home and look at the shifter and make SURE the thing is in park or neutral, lol. I didn't really look at lunch; not much time. The battery showed 87% on my trickle charger. I am leaning towards a possible neutral safety issue, starter, or ignition switch. Got a jack and jackstands, but the older I get, the more I don't like em. I am spoiled here at work by having a shop with lifts and racks.

Yep, we added a ground wire when we bent the float arm on the sender, just for insurance. Now, if I can figure out why it won't START. I think I need a priest and some holy water.

VERY TRUE! Good thinking, I just cancelled them. On an even BRIGHTER note, I went home at lunch to drive it and burn some of the fuel down so we can pull the tank again and try to reseal the sender, and now IT WON'T START. Lights all work, dash lights up with ignition switch on, but no turning over and no click. I am guessing the starter, but I am about ready to light this damn thing on fire.

Will it be ok to use them? Already ordered the silly things.

No locking ring, just a little round gasket with 5 holes for short screws. Only seems to do this when full, which would make sense. I just don't think there is a split anywhere because it just started when I took the tank down on a lift, and we bent the sender arm and fixed the gas gauge. Only other thing we did was add an extra ground wire to the sender. When I first installed the sender six months ago, I didn't use anything other than the gasket it came with, and it never leaked. Now, it is, so I ordered a new gasket from CARS this morning, along with tank strap cushions which were also missing.

Good question, I don't understand it either.

The car is an original a/c car, and the 3 port filter was new and hooked up correctly. I replaced it when I first got it cause I thought that was why it had a stumble. It just runs a ton better with the 2 port filter and the vapor line plugged off for some reason. As a side note, I noticed tonight after I filled it up that the gauge seems to be in great working order, but it seems to be leaking gas around the sending unit, which it did AFTER we fixed the gauge. This will be the THIRD time in 2 weeks the tank has had to come out. We made a new gasket last week, and used a silicone type product by Permatex that swore it was for fuel pumps and the like and was resistant to gas. Guess not. Will this issue ever completely go away, lol????

Cap is new, and it's vented. I currently have the a/c fuel filter on with the third port capped, and it seems like a lot of pressure on that vacuum cap. If you slide it off with the engine hot, it will spray gas, not vapor. I am going to reinstall the non-a/c fuel filter; then I won't have to worry about it. Just seems like an odd problem, and It's been like that since I bought the car. Switching to the non--a/c setup seems to be the only fix.

Ok, I posted in October about disconnecting my vapor return line from the fuel filter, and plugging everything, and my off idle and first gear stumbles went away. Since it is warming up in Alabama, and I was concerned somewhat about vapor lock, even with a more efficient Vintage Air system, I hooked everything back up. The stumble under hard acceleration from a stop and most of the way thru 1st is back. Telriv, I believe, mentioned the fuel pump may be going bad. I am sure it has been replaced; it's a sealed unit, but reckon it would be a good idea to change it, since they are relatively cheap? The tank and fuel cap are both vented, and it's just weird to me how this is happening. I would like to have the vapor line hooked up, but it runs so much better without it. I plugged it off again last night, and the issue was virtually non existant. Any ideas of what can be done? Got my gauge issue fixed, and another little problem rears it's head, lol.

And then having to go back 2 days later, and basically do it all over because you foolishly did not make a new sending unit gasket, and it tears, dumping gas down the back of the muffler into your garage floor, forcing you to tow it back to work because you are scared of fire if you drive it?