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Posts posted by ArticiferTom
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Following off Ed's theory . And not finding one so easily . I made the below pic adapter to use my key bezel /trim in the dash with modern switch currently in it . With coil modern coil on inside cowl . The adapter replaced coil mount three hole to press trim in plate and give adjustable plate to mount key switch in 3/4" hole . Only need to repaint dash to hide previous plate with hole they drilled .
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Use DBC web site to get spring number use to cross to others . Increases chances . Contact Jay A . Pre39 Chrysler
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A double E -clip fills and grips
2 hours ago, Taylormade said:I need some advice from the experts. I'm getting ready to put the door handles back together and install them. Like an idiot, I forgot to take pictures before they went to Paul's Chrome. I'm pretty sure I have the correct order of parts, but I need some help.
Here is a shot of the handle parts. From left to right you see the handle with the integral shaft, the tube that covers the shaft, the escutcheon with the two screw holes (the holes accept screws that attach the assembly to the door), a large washer, a spring cup, the spring, and the other spring cup. As far as I can see, they assemble in the order shown.
Originally everything was held on the shaft by what appears to be a factory applied swage. You can see the swaged area on the shaft in this shot. It has obviously been ground down to get the assembly apart.
I can't see how I can reproduce the swagging process myself. Has anyone figured out how to do this while you're trying to hold everything together? I think I remember someone suggesting drilling a small hole in the shaft and using a metal rod to hold things in place. This is actually done on the door handle that locks. Any suggestions and any photos of the assembled shaft showing this area would be appreciated - especially an original.
nice .
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Wow ! nice pics of remy and Delco units . What book are they from .
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It 's unfortunate that they did not put number on them . Would like to know what one I have , to trade .
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The 1931 ,1835839 is one , it looks like . Have a truck Model uF-10 with 196 ci 4cyl. pa engine .
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Looks like split window , maybe Paige . Something on this type came up before , different pic .
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Should not need raw linseed as they are new . Plus they will pick up dirt and grime darkening quick . Ask builder and search more . So many ways to go . Would lean more toward what wood boat people recommend .
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I agree with all the above . Never miss a post . 👍
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What anchors it to hub from turning ?
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Loose in place . Lube continuously and drill to turn . Dis assembly is dangerous ..
Here is company to make you new cable http://www.texasindustrialelectric.com/speedo.asp . Here is pic of donor unit I took apart . It was severely fractured on start .
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12 hours ago, Scott Bonesteel said:
Looks like a 33 PD convertible coupe. Not a 32 because that year had a windshield post that was part of the body. Doesn't look like a 34 because the door top garnish molding is thin, 33 style rather than the wider 34 style. Can't see the front of the inside door panel which would tip it off, the winder for the vent window would be seen (which doesn't exist on the 33 PD Plymouth). Could also be the equivalent 33 Dodge convertible coupe. Only other potential is an early 30s Chevy convertible which had a similar windshield post. My vote goes to the 33 Plymouth PD convertible coupe.
Did you mean '33 PC ? I believe PC came out in late 1932 per Ply33 site .
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No ,I believe there are three adjustments on your box . It is adjusted similar to others . The Worm adjusting nut 25 , the steering gear adjusting nut trunnion 23 , the worm adjusting lock screw 29 .
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Yeah , Believe it said 28000 frames per second . doesn't seem possible . But really show alot about how prewar carbs mostly work . Was surprised by the bowl agitation ,going on .
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Speedometer repair kits" ebay . 🙂
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Delco Remy 7140 , I suspect . Poor translating program I guess . Most would rebuild . Kits available . Or check your local re builder . Anyone you find would probable need it also .
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Did me great on sleeving wheel cyl. and rebuilding my '31 brakes . Had them do my master last year . They went above and beyond to match my bleeders .
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I would not take 195 as overheating . You are getting cooling of between 25 and 35 degrees . I agree with Nearchoc. flush , maybe thermocure / evaporust to clean .
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Stakeside you may want to try the Thermocure /Evaporust cleaning first . Most of what you get blocking is rust particles and this dissolves that and engine rust for better heat transfer .
Also the DBC web site has sparkplug info for engines ,on the sidebar heading .
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Sorry can not help not familiar with that type system . Looks like cotton clothes line .
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Pic and model with year would help . Some had none , some had felt , some o-rings . i do not think packing rope would be best . That was used with water produces .
WTB: AMMCO 1750 Brake Gauge
in CCCA - Buy/Sell
Posted
Going to be tough to come by . Most make or buy modern tool to adjust brake shoe .