Riviera63

I did the best I could as my storage garage does not have electricity and I did not want to take the car covers completely off. I hope this helps. Bill

My car is put away for the winter. Weather has been nice. I will see if I can get out there and snap a picture for you tomorrow. Bill

Revised price. $65.00 shipped to the lower 48.

I have for sale a really nice 1963 1964 1965 left/driver's side lower rear quarter panel trim molding. This was a piece that I had originally taken off of my car and replaced because someone had apparently slammed a car door into it putting a nice vertical crease in it. I then had a "perfect storm" if you will to get me to decide to resurrect this piece from the scrap pile. I have a friend that used to have collector cars that was cleaning out his basement. In the process he gave me all of his stainless steal polishing supplies. A week later Jason came out with his excellent article in the latest Riview on stainless trim polishing. I was now inspired to try something I had never tried before. I dug out the stainless trim I had replaced on my car to see what I could do. This piece is the product of my first efforts. I feel that it is now show quality or very near show quality. It is certainly better than any trim I have on my car now and light years away from the crap you see being pedaled on e-bay. Having done this, of course, means I will be removing all of the trim pieces on my car in the future and polishing them now that I have seen how beautiful these pieces can look. I am offering this to forum members first before I list it on e-bay. As always I forgot to take a before picture but, the last picture has the pens showing where the vertical crease was before I worked on it. $65.00 shipped. Thanks. Bill

Tom, Heat is an aspect I never thought about. I do have several instances where I leave the trunk open for long periods. Up until now I just removed the bulb. Putting in the reel out light will make that problematic. Using an LED would certainly be much simpler than removing the bulb every time or adding an on/off switch. I will give that a try. Thanks. Bill

Tom, Great advice again. Thank you. Bill

Tom, That is a great idea. I might even do that with the new light I will install in the spring. That way I won't have to worry about battery drain if I forget to close the trunk or leave it open for an extended period as at a car show. Maybe this is not something I need to be concerned with. Bill

Light is sold. Thanks Ed!

I have for sale a very nice John W. Hobbs accessory reel out trunk/under hood light. This light does not have the mercury switch as the ones that were used in our Rivieras. This would be the type which would have been used on Pontiacs and other GM models where it is connected to the headlight/tail light power feed. You need to have the parking lights/headlights on to use. I added trunk lights to all of the several 1963 Pontiacs I owned and they all tied into that power source. The light comes with a power feed line. I am offering it up to Forum members first before putting it on E-bay as I thought someone might like this set up rather than the mercury switch. It has been cleaned, repainted and tested. The line pulls out and retracts fully and the lens is perfect. One thing I noticed with these lights is that when you take them in and out the bracket scratches the top of the light and the bottom of the light scratches the bracket. I added felt to the underside of the bracket arms and also to the bottom of the light. This should eliminate or at least minimize the scratches keeping the light looking like new. With the felt pads on the bottom of the light also enables you to place the light on any surface without worrying about it scratching that surface. The felt is removable if you so choose. $75.00 plus S & H. Please PM me if interested. Thanks. Bill

Gene yes, Steve yes, James yes, Bob yes, Tim yes, Larry yes and several others yes, yes, yes! Please give me some credit.

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No problem. I'm glad you have a solution. Bill

I have used Barney for antenna help/rebuilds several times in the past on the earlier power antennas like the one in my 1963 Buick Riviera. He is an invaluable resource. His pricing is fair, he is easy to work with, fast turn around and he is very knowledgeable. If you have an antenna problem or question, Barney is the man. Highly recommended. Bill

Thanks Tom. I did purchase the one from from Gene. I am still looking for 1 rear license plate frame and 1 front license plate frame. Thanks. Bill

Eric, Saw this on e-bay. A parts tach but, the lens appears to be good. Might be worth a try. If he does not ship overseas I would be willing to have it sent to me and then I could forward to you. Let me know. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1960s-BUICK-TACHOMETER-TACH-WILDCAT-SKYLARK-GS-66-67-68-69/173643455391?hash=item286df4db9f:g:86sAAOSw1jpb7iM2:rk:1:pf:0&LH_ItemCondition=4 Bill

Doug, Yes, that is for the front of the window. As far as the material for the rear I have never replaced that but, It looks correct. Bill

Doug, I got mine from Steele Rubber Products. Go to their website and first select the Riviera list. There are not that many things to scroll through. It is listed as flexible run channel channel kit. Bill

Light is sold.

Thanks Tom, good advice. Bill

I think that in that discussion with the evidence given by Tom M., Tom T. and Rivdrivn we have pretty good evidence pointing to the placement location of the trunk light. See Pics 1-4 Pics 5-6 show the clips Ed is referring to and the hex head screws used. Tom M. recalled (see below) that the clips may have been used when mounting the light under the hood. From the set up of the Riviera trunk I think that one is going to have to drill holes and use just the hex head screws to mount the trunk light. It may be different for other years and models. Tom M. said: "Over the years I have bought and installed these kits....but it has been a long time ago. They were very common to show up in the `80`s at most Buick swap meets. The kits contained 2 different jumper harnesses. There were also 3 hex head screws and clips to accept the screws when installing the light under the hood. There were instruction sheets which covered various years but I don't remember any Riviera specific instructions. I think the instructions may have been relatively generic." "I don't think it is possible to locate the light smack dab in the center of the Riviera trunk lid because the depression in the center of the support ribs is larger in diameter than the feet of the trouble light. I remember fishing the jumper harness thru the voids created by the support channels and thru one of the oval holes near the center." Bill

Incandescent, # 1003.

I have for sale a very nice John W. Hobbs accessory reel out trunk/under hood light. Long story short in my search for a reel out light for my car I ended up with 2 of them. Originally this is the one I was going to put in my car. It has been cleaned, repainted and tested. The line pulls out and retracts smoothly and the lens is perfect. One thing I noticed with these lights is that when you take them in and out the bracket scratches the top of the light and the bottom of the light scratches the bracket. I added felt to the underside of the bracket arms and also to the bottom of the light. This should eliminate or at least minimize the scratches keeping the light looking like new. With the felt pads on the bottom of the light also enables you to place the light on any surface without worrying about it scratching that surface. The felt is removable if you so choose. I am offering it to forum members for what I paid for it. $80.00 plus S & H. Please PM me if interested. Thanks. Bill

I am looking to buy 2 of the original rear license plate frames that the 1963-1965 Rivieras came with from the factory. I know from a previous thread that front frames were also available. I would be interested in one of those as well. If anyone has a frame that they would sell or know of anyone that has them please PM me. Thanks. Bill

Refresh-Reasonable offer.