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Does anyone know what I should reasonably expect as far as compression test numbers for my '35 Commander with 250 cubic inch straight eight with standard cast iron head? I've already done the test, but I'd like to know what others might have seen. I've also posted this question on the SDC tech forum, but there are so few folks now who work on this vintage car that I'm just trying to maximize the exposure to my question. Thanks. Tom

I did get pressure at the gauge, so today IMG_1666.MOV was initial start-up after replacing the head, manifolds, rings and valves. I thought it ran and sounded great. I made a video and tried to attach it here, but I've never been successful attaching videos in the past, so we'll see if this works. If it does work, I apologize in advance for the length. It's over two minutes long and I don't know how to edit it down. Just before the engine starts I'm standing to the left and it looks like I'm chewing gum. I haven't chewed a piece of gum in years. I'm actually mouthing the words " C'mon, C'mon, C'mon" It's been a pretty good day. Tom IMG_1666.MOV

I didn't get any oil pressure at the gauge after what I thought was a reasonable amount of cranking, so I primed the pump by injecting oil into the galleries through a port where the oil filter would connect. I used a tool I made some years ago that I copied from one that Gary Ash posted pictures of on the SDC forum back in 2010. It is basically a piece of steel pipe with a cap on one end that has been drilled to accept a tire valve stem. The other end has fittings and tubing to plug into the oil port, with a ball valve in line. To use, the cap with the tire valve stem is removed, the pipe mostly filled with oil, the cap replaced and the cylinder pressurized with air through the stem. (it takes very little air pressure) The ball valve can then be used to regulate the oil as it is fed into the port. This works like a charm. I should have figured on using this right from the start. Thanks Gary. Tom

As I put the engine back together in my '35 Commander I am using the auxiliary starter button on the Startix to turn the engine over as I set the valves. It occurred to me that I should put oil in it and use the rotation of the engine while cranking it over to prime the system before I put the head, manifolds, etc back on. Not sure how many revolutions I'll get setting the valves. Does anyone know how long I might have to crank the engine this way before I should see pressure on the gauge? I assume that once I see pressure that I should be OK to reassemble the rest of it and fire it up. I used plenty of assembly lube so I don't think I'll do any damage cranking it cold. Thanks. Tom

Just bumping this up because it got buried pretty quickly. I guess this is maybe not going to be as simple as I thought. I spoke with a man in Florida who owns two '35 Dictators. He said that the only way he was able to get the radiator out was to remove the whole front clip and then remove the grille shell to access those bolts to get the radiator out. Does this strike a chord with anyone? I'm thinking at this point that if the whole clip has to come off, that I might as well finish my engine work and get it all back together. I cleaned a lot of gunk out of the engine while the side water jacket was off. If it overheats after I get the engine finished, then it really doesn't take any more work to get the front clip off if the engine is assembled or not. If it doesn't overheat, then I've saved about a thousand bucks because no matter what condition the radiator is in, if I take it to any shop, they will say it needs to be recored Thoughts? Tom

Hi Dick. That's hilarious. I almost asked if there was something about wide whitewall maintenance. You will be pleased to know that I actually do own a Studebaker with wide whites. The previous owner had just installed them before deciding to sell. During the negotiations for my purchase I told him that his choice was "Unfortunate"! Payment on on the way for Service indexes numbers 2 and 3 Tom

Hi Dick. Are the prices post-paid? I'll need two of these, just want to know how much to send. Thanks. Tom Lewis

I continue to work on the engine in my '35 Commander, and as long as I have the hood and radiator support rods removed, I would like to take the radiator out to check it while I have the chance. I've removed the fan assembly and the engine cylinder head and it looks like there is clearance to get the radiator out. George Rohrbach told me at Hershey that he was able to remove the radiator from a '35 Commander without removing the whole front clip, so I'm confident it can be done. My problem is that I can't figure out how to access the heads of the bolts holding the bottom support bracket on. I know I must be missing something simple. The shop manual is silent. I guess Studebaker figured any dummy should be able to get a radiator out without instructions. I've attached a photo (taken from underneath) of the three bolts I suspect have to come out. And once out, will have to go back in someday and tightened up Anyone have any suggestions? Thanks. Tom

Hi Ken. Don't do anything yet with Apple. The shocks actually mount on a bracket that puts them below the frame.. I took one picture as far in as my fat self could get under my car. I have my '37 up on the lift detailing the underside for an AACA show this weekend and won't be able to get better pictures until next Monday or so when I might get the '35 back on the lift. Tom

OK. I found the cowl strip in the 1929 - 1940 Body Parts Manual on page 7. It's labeled as a "Shroud protector strip" part number 866X In the "Standard parts" listing that is an anti-squeak 3/16 thick by 3/4 wide. 54 inches long. Two needed per car. From the illustration I really can't tell if it is flat or channeled. It looks flat. Tom

Well, silly me. Here I am, about an hour after posting the above reply, with a correction. I finally got smart and looked in the parts manual. There is, indeed, a difference between Dictators and Commanders. My chassis parts manual for sixes and eights 1934 to 1946 lists part number 1162XT60 as correct for a '35 Dictator, while part number 1162XB58 is correct for Commanders. All this is on page 157. The difference is (this is for the anti-squeak at the radiator) that for the Dictator the strip is 60 inches long and is 1/8 inches thick by 1/2 inches wide and the Commander strip is 58 inches long and 1/8 thick by 3/8 inches wide. The illustration in the manual (page 608 under "standard parts") shows a flat strip---no channel. I have not yet been able to find the strip that goes across the cowl in any of my manuals yet. I'll find it eventually and will post when found. Tom

Hi Ken. Here are some images of the hood lacing on my '35 Commander. I believe the car to be original. The lacing at he radiator shell is the channel type and I measure it at 1/2 X 1/8. The lacing at the cowl is the flat type and I measure that at 3/4 X 1/8. All this lacing is ratty and oil-soaked and squashed. I can't imagine Studebaker did things differently on different series (Dictator vs Commander) as the cars came down the assembly line. Hope this helps. Tom

I have a really nice '37 Dictator 5A (conventional axle) or Coupe-Express driver's side front fender that I could bring to Hershey if anyone needs it. I wish that I had one this nice to start with when I restored my Coupe-Express. I came across it at Hershey several years ago and couldn't leave it behind. The seller thought it was off some kind of Mopar product and I didn't tell him what it really was until after I bought it. Price is $200. --- $100 for me and $100 contribution to the ASC. Delivery to Hershey only. I won't ship something this bulky, so don't ask. Fender has no dents or rust through. A good block sanding and several coats of primer (maybe a skim of glazing putty on door-type dings) and you're ready for paint. Bead is perfect. Let me know in advance if you want it. I'm not going to bring it on spec. I have a vendor spot --- Chocolate field space C3B 31. 50 yards away from the ASC tent I'm going to post this on the SDC forum also if I can get the photos to upload. Tom

Steve ---I'm sorry for the slow reply and no pictures yet. I got all caught up in a spur-of-the-moment dash to Florida to look at a '37 President. I should be home Thursday. Hopefully I can remember then to do as promised. Tom

Steve --- I have an original ignition switch that is correct for your '37 Dictator. I'll try to take pictures of it tomorrow. It is comprised of a switch, an armored cable, and an integral cap that fits to the coil mounted on the firewall. Also requires a bracket to hold the switch to the dash. I'll get pictures of how that all goes together also. I know how this is confusing. I had the same problem you're having trying to figure out how someone else jury-rigged the wiring when I restored my '37 Coupe-Express. (Dictator wiring system). Tom Lewis If you want to call, my number is listed in both the SDC and ASC current rosters. e-mail is studebaker4829@live.com Tom

Hi Ken. I can't speak with authority because my '35 Commander is painted black, and always has been. In his excellent article detailing the resurgence of Studebaker in '33 and '34 in the October 2013 issue of "Collectible Automobile", Richard Quinn included photos of Chester Bradfield's '35 Commander coupe and photos of Ford Stoecker's '35 Commander Land Cruiser. Chester's car is red and has a black-painted vertical grille. The horizontal louvers next to the grille and the horizontal louvers on the hood sides are painted red. Ford's Land Cruiser shows body color on both the hood sides and the horizontal louvers on the grille, but I can't tell for sure if the vertical grille is body color or black. Ford's car (in a frontal view) is also on the front cover of a past ASC roster, but, again, I can't tell if the vertical louvers are black or body color. I suspect black. I've tried to go back through my files of photos to when I had the opportunity to see Ford's car in person, but haven't found any. Because of the body style, most of my photos are from 3/4 rear. Anyway, you might want to contact either Chester or Ford. Both their numbers are listed in both current SDC and ASC rosters. Back issues of "Collectible Automobile" are available from: Coolectible Automobile 7373 N. Cicero Ave. Lincolnwood IL 60712. Regards, Tom

Gary ---You might e-mail Jason Lewis at sasquatch711@aol.com. He is parting out several '37 Presidents. Tom Lewis

It is an unusual size. You're certainly not going to find any of these at the Home Depot! I made several of these nuts a couple of years ago when I needed one for the '37 I was restoring at the time. If you (or anyone else) needs one, I can provide it. Tom Lewis

In a technical post on the SDC forum Gary Ash posted a detailed analysis of differences in expansion properties of aluminum and cast iron. It is one of the most interesting threads I have read on any of the forums that I follow. One of the things that caught my eye was Gary's mention of using grade 2 bolts as head bolts. Are such things still available? I'm about to install a replacement head on the 250 cubic inch straight 8 in my '35 Commander. Any comments on re-using the original head bolts? Thanks. Tom

Jerry Kurtz, in Dover, PA, is the go-to guy for '37 parts in general and transmissions in particular. 717-308-1800. Tom Lewis

I recently found another thread on this topic either on this forum or on the SDC forum. The final comment was from Rex Miltenberger, who recommended the short grain sedan decking material from Restoration Specialties in Windber, PA. The reason I remember this so clearly is because I am preparing to replace the top material on my own '35 Commander 4-door sedan, and I searched for previous help. What is on my car right now shows no grain pattern at all, but who knows if it might have been replaced at least once in the last 81 years. When I do mine I will go with Rex's recommendation. Tom Lewis

Gary---I got vibration damper cones from Tom Shrock. Tom

Hi. I have absolutely no clue where to go to retrieve PM's. I think I've clicked on every box imaginable. I certainly didn't send one. How is any of that done? I have a tough enough time just signing in. Tom

I'm sorry about the delayed response. I finally remembered what my password is for this forum and got to the only computer that has these pictures stored on it. Anyway, here is what I have for '37. I don't have any red lenses or bezels that I could find. Both buckets have had some body work done to them. The base had a split just like yours (they all do it seems) and was repaired with PC-7 epoxy. Let me know if interested in any of this.

Are you looking to restore that housing or looking to buy a replacement? If looking to buy, which side do you need (the bases are different side to side) and do you want a bucket with or without the license plate bracket threaded holes? The bucket shown looks like a passenger side bucket without the threaded holes. Do you need the electrical bracket and socket inside? Tom