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37S2de

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  1. HA, HA. This is my “American Pickers” price. You never know. Several years ago I was at a Studebaker International annual meet with another ‘37 Studebaker that I had restored, when a man came by and declared that he wanted to buy it and had to have it. I stated that I wasn’t interested in selling. He kept after me and asked what my “crazy, stupid, don’t want to sell it” price was. I quoted a price north of $100,000 and figured that would be the end of the conversation. All he said was “Can I look under the hood?” Less than five minutes later he owned it. My wife was pissed that I let it go and I still regret I didn’t keep it long enough to take it through the AACA system. Tom By-the-way, auburnseeker , I am in the process of repainting all four fenders on my ‘47 Hudson pickup, and just reinstalled the left rear today. I have followed the entire chronicle of your shop build and am impressed with the attention to detail and astonished at the total cost. It’s not like that here in rural Louisiana. Permits? We don’t need no stinking permits. Insulation? We don’t need no stinking insulation. And it’s all clay soil. I have yet to find the first rock on my property.
  2. Here’s one. This photo was taken in 2016 on the day the truck was awarded its AACA Senior Award. I’ve owned it since 1997 and did all the work myself except upholstery and chrome plating. One hundred large and it’s yours. Come and get it. Tom
  3. Gary — Don’t feel bad. I went through the same drill several tears ago when my engine was rebuilt by one of the most reputable shops in the country. Me: “Do you want me to leave you the shop manual so you can set the timing right?” Them: “No, we’ve done this before.” I think they wound up refunding me $400 to buy the new pan gasket and my labor to drop the pan and put the oil pump in the right position and reassemble. I think there’s a thread about that either here or on the SDC forum. There was no way I was going to leave it the way it was with the wires all looped around the engine bay Tom
  4. The ASC Board of Directors met on-line last night, Monday, May 11, 2020, and voted to cancel the ASC International Meet scheduled for Chattanooga this August. The health and safety of our members is first, and given the demographics of our club, many of us are in high-risk groups. The cancellation of the Studebaker Drivers Club meet later in that week posed a real concern for turnout for our meet. If you have made reservations at the Hampton Inn, which was the host hotel, I suggest that you call and cancel your reservation. I have already notified them that the meet is cancelled, but each individual has to cancel their own reservation. The phone number for the Hampton is 423-269-6600. It would have been fun, but it’s not to be. Tom Lewis
  5. Hi Rex. The ASC Board of Directors will have an on-line meeting next Monday, May 11. I can’t comment until that meeting is over, but certainly the status of the Chattanooga Meet is number one on the agenda. Look for official word on Tuesday May 12. Tom
  6. I also did what I call the “fence”. It attaches to the bottom of the hood. This grille is going on a Coupe-Express and the owner chose the color based on one of the models currently available
  7. Here are some more pictures. I max out at 4 pictures per post.
  8. I have been a fan of 1937 Studebakers since I saw my very first one. Much of the attraction is the look of the front end and, in particular, the “winged victory” grille. I have now restored two ‘37’s for myself and after doing the last grille, I said “ never again”. The grilles have 76 separate fins that to be restored properly must be removed from the slotted side pieces. Each fin has a very delicate stainless strip crimped to the front edge that should be removed from the fin so the fin can be bead blasted and painted. Each stainless strip has to be gently sanded with very fine paper, polished, and buffed. I’m not sure that I’ve ever seen one of these strips that was not without some ding or imperfection. I mount them on a spare fin, do the buffing, and remove again so they can be reinstalled on the restored fins later. Reassembly is tedious. I made a jig that will hold all 38 fins from one side while I wiggle the slotted side bar into place. Once one bar is done the assembly can be turned over and the center bar wiggled onto each one of the fins. Remember I said “never again”? HA! I recently allowed myself to be talked into doing a grille for another member. It’s real labor-intensive work, so I thought I’d share some pictures here. No, I’m not looking for more work! Tom
  9. There’s carpet in a ‘36 Dictator coupe? My ‘35 Commander sedan has a rubber mat (in the front— carpet in the rear seat area) and the ‘37 President Coupe I once owned had a rubber mat and they are both more up-scale than a Dictator. I don’t have a dog in this race, but I’m kind of curious Tom
  10. The Chevrolet has been sold. Thanks to all who responded to the ad Tom Lewis
  11. Funny, as I use a '73 Vega GT wagon as my run-around-town parts-getter. It never fails to get attention. I was kind of thinking the same thing about the attention here. Tom
  12. I can put it back together enough to transport (body back on the frame, fenders and splash aprons and running boards attached), but a large truck and trailer still required for all the extra parts (extra engine, extra transmission, top bow assembly, bumpers, seat springs etc) Anybody interested at $10,000? Tom
  13. For sale. 1932 Chevrolet Confederate deluxe roadster. Dual side mounts and rumble seat. Body and sheet metal off frame. Rolling chassis First photo shows it the day I bought it in 2015. 2nd photo is of the restored chassis and the 3rd photo shows the body after walnut shell blasting. I then put a coat of epoxy primer on the body to protect it. The car was imported from Argentina in 1984. I'm sure it was to get the body only. Someone did a very slipshod attempt to convert the chassis to left-hand drive.The restoration has been re-started to correct everything done incorrectly. The chassis is now done correctly and is complete. Recored radiator by Kirby's in Ft Worth. Correct '32 engine (had '34 engine when purchased) Head repaired properly. Bob Marx rebuilt rocker arm assemblies. Engine lower end looked good so I left it alone. Rebuilt starter and generator. Rebuilt clutch and pressure plate. Correct steering gear finally found. Brakes completely redone. Every bearing, seal and bushing in chassis done. Double sealed bearings in rear end and axle vented. Correct spring shackles all around. Gas tank cleaned. Mechanical fuel pump works fine but 6-volt electrical fuel pump added for priming. Improved modern sealed-bearing water pump. Chassis and all components sand blasted, primed and painted black single stage acrylic enamel. 6 wheels sand blasted and powder coated bright red. Firestone WWW tires look good. Not sure about their age. Body is truly excellent with really good original wood. Body has been walnut-shell blasted and epoxy primered. No wood replacement needed. Sheet metal (all 4 fenders, running board splash aprons, front and rear splash aprons, and hood) are very nice. Running boards are straight. All side mount hardware present. Upholstery available for patterns. I was planning to use LeBarron-Bonney, but now that they have gone belly-up, I'm not sure of the next move. New wood for the top bows from Classic Wood Products in N.C. included. Original wood still in good shape on top bows, but I felt I should go with new. All seat springs with car. Most chrome redone, but I consider it driver quality. All complete and very straight. This whole project is a jig-saw puzzle right now, but if you know '32 Confererates, you can wind up with a pretty nice car. I have come to the conclusion that I can not physically finish it. I paid way too much for the car originally because I didn't know enough about '32 Chevrolets to recognize how badly the "restoration" had been botched. I now have about $30,000 in it. I'll sell it as is for $12,000 Plenty of pictures available. E-mail me at studebaker4829@live.com My phone is 318-382-3337. I seldom answer calls from numbers I don't recognize (too many robo calls and telemarketers out there), so leave a message and I'll call back. Come inspect the car in person. It is located about 10 miles east of Shreveport, Louisiana. Thanks for reading all this.
  14. The Antique Studebaker Club’s 2020 International Meet will be held in Chattanooga, TN from August 2 to August 5, 2020. Please see the meet announcement on page 3 in the Nov-Dec 2019 issue of the Review. The Studebaker Drivers Club International Meet is also in Chattanooga and runs from August 5 through August 8. I noticed in a post on the SDC forum that the hotel that the SDC is using as their host hotel has been booked up. There are many hotels in the area, but the only one mentioned in the forum post as an alternative for SDC members is the hotel the ASC has selected as its host hotel. The ASC host hotel is the Hampton Inn in East Ridge, TN. It is the nearest to the venue that the SDC will use for the swap meet and car show, so with the SDC host hotel already booked, this Hampton should prove to be very popular. If you are planning to attend the Chattanooga meet, I urge you to make reservations early. (As in NOW) The Hampton phone number is 423-269-6600 for reservations, or e-mail me at: studebaker4829@live.com and I can forward a booking link that is very easy to use Please remember that if you are planning to participate in any of the SDC events that you must register with the SDC Tom Lewis
  15. Hi Chris The belt in my ‘35 Commander is labeled: MODOC 156. 25-12700 Tom
  16. Don — You are probably right that the shields aren’t for all ‘37 models. I used sedan rear fenders and used the shields because I had them. I now remember that there was another bracket spot welded at the top of the shield that I had to remove to get the shields to fit. The 5 holes in my first picture that I never filled in after drilling out the spot welds were the clue. I got lazy and didn’t weld the holes up. Chris — You didn’t say if you needed the support rods themselves. This picture is what I now think came off my CE when purchased. I don’t know if this is original, or from which side of the truck, but it’s yours if you want it. Tom
  17. Hi Chris Actually these are more like inner fender shields. — curved sheet metal pieces attached to the bottom of the rear wheel opening and then to the frame about 4 or 5 inches in front of the rear spring shackle. I tried to take pictures, but it’s hard to get the I-pad in the right position. I hope this helps a little The first picture is looking rearward on the driver side and the second is looking forward on the passenger side. Tom
  18. Hi Don. It went out in today’s mail. For postage we’ll be square Tom
  19. Hi Don. I guess I’m not real sure what you have there. The banjo fittings I have are as pictured and are part number 185171. There are two copper gaskets required. The one that goes under the head of the banjo bolt is .543 inches ID and the one that goes on the shank of the banjo bolt and fits between the banjo fitting and the wheel cylinder is .444 inches ID. I’m pretty sure that second one is part number 185167. Chuck Collins shows that one as being available on his website. The original washers are thinner (and probably softer) than those available today, and were designed to distort into the grooves made on the surfaces of the banjo fitting, rather than crush. I hope I’m explaining this OK. When I think of copper crush washers I think of the asbestos-filled washers used to seal water jackets. Anyway, when you get this fitting, if the bolt you have does not fit, let me know. I have that also Tom
  20. Don —- I’m pretty sure that I have some. You are talking about the fittings that have the alignment “fork” on the end, right? I’ll look for them when I get home from Mansfield tomorrow . I’m not sure if I have any where one of the “fork” tines is not broken off. Do you need any of the banjo bolts? Tom
  21. When I first bought my ‘35 Commander I managed to crack a headlight lens. I called Don Axlerod and he immediately told me he hadn’t seen any of those lenses in 40 years. I asked him what he would sell them for if he had any and he said “$1000 a pair”. I managed to find another vendor who had a lens for me and replaced the one on my car. Another pair popped up somewhere and I bought that pair also I thought about what Don had said about these lenses and took the cracked one and the (now) extra good pair with me to Hershey the next year. I went to Don’s space and fished the cracked one out of my bag. He immediately recognized it for what it was, stated again that he didn’t have any and hadn’t seen any in many years. When asked what he could sell a pair for, he again said “$1000” I then fished the good pair out of my bag and offered them to him for $500. Don changed his story right away and said he couldn’t buy them because they were a very “limited market” item and he’d never sell them. All I could do was laugh and walk away. I just realized how old this thread is and that one of the posts (the one with the picture) is mine. Anyway, this post brings my ‘35 Commander headlight lens story full circle. Now, if anyone needs a good pair of ‘35 Commander or President headlight lenses, the offer I made to Don stands. Tom
  22. Don —- Is there a driveshaft shop in Grand Junction? When I replaced the transmission in my Coupe-Express with a Jerry Kurtz-built transmission with overdrive, the original driveshaft with those rubber joints was too long. The local driveshaft shop here in Shreveport showed me how to measure for a new driveshaft and had one made by the next day with modern u-joints. Best bet is to find out where the truckers on I-70 get their driveline repairs. Those guys get quick service. Tom
  23. R-1, 4-speed, air. Very nice car. I’ve owned for 12 years. Time to let it go. $21,000. Car is located in northwest Louisiana. If interested, call Tom at 318-382-3337. Please be prepared to leave a message because I seldom hear the cell phone ring now that my wife has convinced me to give up the landline. Tom
  24. Thank you for the follow up. Obviously some serious planning went into that panel. You said you made your own rolling dies. Was the groove in the female side of the coining tool made the same size as the rolling die? I can see where the tools all have to match and different rolling dies would need a different set of coining tools. I have a lathe and milling machine, so someday I might try it. Your mention of following a post on the HAMB reminded me that almost anything these days can be found on YouTube. I googled “rolling beads in sheet metal” and learned more in a short time than I’ve learned in 25 years of trying it by myself. I’m probably a little too old to be thinking about making or buying an English Wheel, though. Tom
  25. That looks very nice. I am impressed that the floor panel looks so flat after putting in the beads. Every time I roll beads I wind up with a warped panel and it is a wrestling match to get it flat again. Very nice layout and execution. I’d be interested in more pictures of your “coining tool”. I have struggled with getting the ends of beads rounded also. Tom
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