Oregon Desert model 45

reposted from craigslist NOT MINE 1920-'s 1930's Packard Automobile Disc Wheels & Axles Differential Rear End $200 (Ft. Morgan) https://denver.craigslist.org/pts/5534764950.html

Terry I have also been using Powerpoint to combine photos, text, and block graphics into a slide, then take a picture using another free software called "Greenshot", which is activated on the computer by pushing the Print screen button, then click and drag to take a photo. The wood in these Buicks is a real puzzle to figure out, which gets more complicated when there are fewer original pieces remaining to take measurements and patterns from. My father made new wood for this car back in the 80's with a few pieces of weathered original wood to copy, then lost interest in the car and parked it outside in the rain for about 15 years. I am now finding how lots of little errors crept into the rewood project, resulting in misalignment of all the pieces. So now it's my turn to fix it. I missed a dimension of the Seat Platform overhang in the front, so added another slide. That is supposed to be a section view of the seat riser and Seat platform. Rod W - regarding the Holden body wood sill to frame bolt in the vicinity of the Front Seat Riser. Was there a bolt in this location (see circled locations in below photo) or is that bolt underneath the seat platform or thru those thick riser corners ? Kevin

The non-original wood framing in my Flint built 1925-45 needs to be replaced, and I will begin by modifying this existing wood framing until it can be used as a pattern for making new. Since the Front Seat platform wood was completely missing, it looks like a good place to start. I mocked up the Front seat wood after examining photos from a mix of Standard and Master. Holden wood framing is slightly different in the front seat area, so I made a few guesses about how the Flint built wood should look. This area is usually all covered up with upholstery so is very difficult to get a clear idea of how it really goes together. In the photos below are numbered dimensions needed, indicated by D-, and questions Q-. I made all these mock up parts real quick & dirty from scrap wood, so the craftsmanship should not be graded here, just point out what looks wrong and set me straight. Also needed is the thickness of these wood pieces. thank you Kevin BCA # 47712

Here are photos of a 24 or 25 Master chassis with front & rear brakes. Brake lever design looks like 24 or 25. The frame also appears the same as the Montana chassis. Tyler, next time you are in the area, could you get more photos showing the front & rear axle, and how far the wheels have sunk into the dirt ? I am looking for axles & wheels for my 25 Master. thanks Kevin

My father once owned a 1931 Chevrolet sedan, so the instrument layout pattern is familiar to me. This same dash may have been carried over into the 1931 production year. photo below is a 1930 pickup.

1930 Chevrolet truck

one option is find someone selling off an engine or parts chassis and see if they will part out. Some of the sellers on craigslist are cleaning up an estate and may be willing offer you a good deal. here are links to current craigslist ads for 1929- 1930 chassis in Idaho and Kansas the 1/2 chassis in Idaho is the small series; not sure which series the Kansas chassis is https://boise.craigslist.org/pts/5502520740.html https://wichita.craigslist.org/pts/5546880748.html

reposted from Craigslist NOT MINE https://modesto.craigslist.org/pts/5540417424.html 1924 buick 4 cylinder motor. Front brakes . rear end - $250 (Sonora)

I fabricated a substitute for 44000 Hood hinge saddle and was able to pin the hood on the car for the first time. Now I need to figure out how to form this hood to restore the upper curvature so it will sit down on the cowl and radiator. Here are some pictures of how I used the 26 radiator surround to figure out the spacing between the hood hinge hole and the lower hole that fastens to the slotted tabs on the radiator surround. The 26 radiator surround will accomadate either a 44000 saddle or the newer style forward hood hinge that attached with 2 machine screws. There was enough space to insert the 44000 weldment and pin to the newer hinge saddle to get correct hinge alignment, then sight thru the slot and mark the center point to drill the lower hole. The lower hole in the original 44000 looks to be larger than I drilled in the substitute, which would allow for more adjustment. Kevin

reposted from craigslist NOT MINE 1924 Dodge 5 window Coupe - $5500 (Aurora, Or) https://portland.craigslist.org/clc/cto/5494265727.html

That is the car. Here is another "before" picture, and another after my father had replaced the wood and installed a 1926 Standard motor - see how it looks a little too short in there ? He bolted the Standard crossmembers to the frame to support that motor. That 26 motor and crossmembers are gone now, and I just need to weld those extra holes in the frame rails closed. The trunk rack may have been a dealer addition, or a period conversion available from an accessory manufacturer. It incorporated the original spare tire rack and added another 16" or so to an already long car. Kevin

whoops forgot to add the photo

That little part and a few of the others may have been dropped on the ground when this car was being dismantled out in the desert. All the heavy parts and all the shiny parts were removed over the years. Based on the tears and dents in the mudguard and hood shelves, I believe the original motor was unbolted, then jacked & blocked up to raise it high enough to clear the frame, then dragged out from the front. Here is one more photo taken in about 1984 of the car now sitting on 26 Standard wheels & axles. Kevin

Hugh I have the same Master Parts book too- just wish it had a few more pictures and tables with dimensions of other parts. Photos below show dimensions for the rear hood support and approx sizes of the stock to make it from. This hood support allows for a lot of adjustment in the of height and side to side position at the rear of the hood. I wonder if the Buick factory encountered a lot of variation between bodies, frames, and sheetmetal parts to require this much adjustment to make the hood fit correctly ? I found a 1925 radiator at the swap meet this weekend, and will need a fwd Hood Hinge saddle 44000 for it. I should be able to compare the location of the 1926 fwd saddle to figure out dimension between the upper/lower holes for the 1925 saddle, and fabricate one from 1/2 round and 1/4 flat bar. I will provide dimensions when complete. Notice the missing neck on the 1925 radiator - there must have been a nice ornament on it that was stuck, and somebody wanted it bad enough to saw off the neck. Kevin

Hugh By scaling this photo, the bar thickness does appear to be 1/4", and the length to be 1 1/4". I have some small pieces of 1/4" bar which I can use to fabricate one for my car. I also have to fabricate a replacement for the radiator brace rod which screws into this elongated nut. All that remains is the eyelet which is attached to the radiator surround in the photo above. Kevin

I will measure the cowl hood bracket and make a dimensioned drawing suitable for fabricating replacements. The U shaped bracket riveted to the firewall measured approx 1/2" wide and 3/8" deep, so I assumed the nut that fits inside (Special hex nut #47467) should be made from 1/2 x 3/8 flat bar. The length appears to be approx 1 1/4" to my eyes based on scaling the 5/16" tapped hole to the overall length. Kevin

This appears to be the base bracket for a folding seat from an early 20's closed car. what make / year of car used this type of bracket ?

This cast bracket looks like a support which mounted on the motor between the radiator and cooling inlet. casting number is 186603 what year / make does this fit ?

Now it all makes sense. There were several boxes of unidentified car parts of various makes that came from my father's garage, and when I saw Hugh's parts shopping list, I recognized one of them was the rear hood support. I will keep looking thru those boxes of parts and see what else is in there. The radiator is from a 1926 Master, and apparently the front hood support attached with 2 screws to the radiator surround, which is different from the 1925 front hood saddle. Below is a photo of the radiator surround removed from the radiator for cleaning and rust & crack repair. I haven't yet checked to see how well the 1925 radiator shell fits over the 1926 radiator and surround. Kevin

Another option for a steel accelerator button is to find one from a Model A ford. (new or reproduction) The difference is the internal threads are 5/16-NF, so you would have to replace or re-thread the threaded rod it attaches to. This is one belongs to my Ford

I made a replacement accelerator button from some old brass plumbing part that was close to the right size. I also have another accelerator arm with original button which was made from plastic with a threaded insert, and is completely worn thru on top and cracked. From the description of new repro buttons available thru Bob's Automobilia, they are also made from plastic. Was there an all steel button produced for some years ? Where does the floor board thimble go ? Kevin

this wooden staff has an engraved brass plate that reads :Presented by Pontiac Motor Company at Washington, D.C. June 13 1935. The staff is approx 54" in length, has a brass ferrule at one end and the opposite end is turned down. It looks like an old fashioned ceremonial staff or short flag pole. What was the event that took place on June 13, 1935 in Washington DC, and what was mounted to this pole ?

these parts appear to be correct for my 1925-45, but I am not quite sure how they attach. can someone please provide a photo showing these installed ? parts are : Rear Fender Wing-Upper, and Radiator Mud Pan. thank you Kevin

1930 Durant reposted from craigslist NOT MINE https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/5492018963.html We have a 1930 Durant for sale! It is complete, ran when parked , missing dr side glass& carberator.$3200!

What is the flathead 6 motor in these photos ? My guess is either Continental or Dodge truck motor. I stumbled upon these old parts while backpacking in the California Sierras. They appear to be pieces of a self propelled air compressor that had been used by a mining operation about 7 miles distant that operated up until the 60's. when this machine was operational, it would have certainly made some miner's life a lot easier because it could be driven up the primitive road that ran to the mine site, and then power his rock drill. This piece of equipment had been cut up and collected into this pile with some other junk, possibly in preparation for removal from the wilderness. components visible in the photos are: Ingersoll Rand 2 cylinder compressor, 1920's vintage 6 cylinder flathead industrial motor, 1940's - 1950's ? vintage 4 truck wheels heavy duty transfer case with power takeoff steerable drive axle solid axle with hubs, has been cut up additional odds & ends of junk, may not have originated from the self propelled compressor. there is a piece of model a ford gas tank in one photo