DV8

I PM'd you both.

This stuff is all original (to the best of my knowledge) and came off my '65. All salvageable but I have no use for it and I'm trying to clear up some work space: 5 blade fan AC condenser Cigarette lighters Glove box map clip Washer bottle clip Tire iron Set of color coded vacuum lines Anyone wants any or all of this I'm just asking you PayPal or Venmo me the cost of shipping.

Yeah it does. It's a little blue-ish in the photo. I see it. Pretty sure Chris sees it. AmIRight?!

Yes, Chris. That first photo is exactly what I needed. Thanks!

And one more query so I can get this setup properly: The stove pipe connects to the exhaust manifold at the opening that has the nipple and the clean air supply goes into the end that is about a 1/4" hole or other way around? I still have yet to find a photo of this setup correctly anywhere on the internet so if anyone has one it would help me out a lot.

Yes, the small rubber gasket was there and practically crumbled as I pulled it away. I replaced it with the brand new one from the choke rebuild/conversion kit so that seal should be all good.

OK so a lot of progress but still something in question. Here's what I just did: -Removed the carburetor -Cleaned all the gunk out of the exhaust channel in the manifold (There was quite a bit of gunk but very little corrosion) -Cleaned all contact surfaces with sandpaper, steel wool, carb cleaner etc. -New fiber gasket and steel plate -Remounted carb Started right up, choke opened in a few minutes and the engine runs smoother than I've ever heard it based on sound a feel. Here's my on question: After I let it warm up I still wasn't getting a vacuum reading at the choke stove pipe inlet. This time it wasn't blowing exhaust because I now have the steel plate where it should be, which is good but, still not pulling hot air from the stove pipe. Here's my thought: I didn't check it until it was warmed up and the choke was all the way open. Does that little piston valve inside the choke housing block the vacuum to the stove pipe once the choke is open? Therefore the only way to properly test the stove pipe inlet for vacuum is from a completely cold start during the first few minutes of the engine running?

So just removing the carb, giving the underside channels a good once over with a wire brush and some carb cleaner and replacing the plates should correct it? Anything else anyone can think of?

So I realized I'm supposed to follow up and post on the resolution. I was able to get a brake reaction rod in pretty good shape from Mario(?) at his Riviera boneyard in Rancho Cucominga. I used the old bushings because the kit I buy for the suspension rebuild will have a new set. So far it's working well as ever without even having anything realigned. Still planning on rebuilding the entire suspension when I have an empty weekend (or week more realistically) and about a thousand bucks.

I just got around to pulling apart my choke housing, cleaning everything and replacing a few small parts. At first I wasn't getting any vacuum at the stove pipe inlet. I poked a wire brush deep down the hole well into the carb and managed to free up quite a bit of gunk. At that point not only was I still not getting vacuum, it was slightly blowing positive air. The vacuum gage was wiggling just around zero. I'm able to get a good vacuum level everywhere else on the carb where there should be vacuum but how is it even possible that I'm getting positive air at the stove pipe inlet?

That makes a lot of sense to me.

Thanks for that insight, Bernie. I did make a fairly hard stop the other night due to another driver's lack of brake lights. Wheels locked up and skidded for a good little bit. I did just overhaul the entire brake system and got everything dialed in and it seemed to be braking as well as and evenly as ever. I have been planning on rebuilding the entire suspension system (including all the bushings and ball joints) for quite some time but it being such a large project and the fact that this is my daily driver I have held off on it. This may be the excuse I need to take the plunge.

Yesterday I got on the highway in my '65 and quickly realized something was wrong with the steering/suspension. It was pulling hard left and very unstable over bumps. Didn't take me long to find the issue once I got it back home into the garage. The brake reaction rod had broken off at the bushing end and was (probably to my luck) lodged in place. Does any one have any advice as to: 1. Where I can get a replacement? These don't seem as readily available as many other suspension and linkage parts. Is a parts car or junkyard my only option? 2. Any tips on how to go about replacing this? My guess is to compress the spring a little by putting a floor jack under the lower A-arm to give me a little play. Right now it's wedged in there pretty good. 3. Any ideas as to what would have caused this? The fact that it's 51 years old and needed to be replaced is a perfectly acceptable answer.

No, never taken it off. When that time comes I'll take the necessary measures but for now I see no reason to take it off just to make sure I can take it off when I need to.

So the engine on my '65 has a on again off again slight squeal coming from the fan/belt area. I always assumed it has been just my fan/power steering belt that is on the dry side but seems to be tensioned well enough. An ever so slight squirt of water directly to the belt (not any pulleys or any other moving parts) without fail silences the squeak almost instantly. I pulled up into a parking lot today and some one nearby said to me "You need a new water pump. It sounds like the bearings on the pulley are going." Is my shot of water test to the belt enough to write it off as a dry belt or should I have a rebuilt water pump at the ready?

I'm finally going to get my choke stove pipe system back to the way it should be. This thread has answered all of my questions except this one: How does the choke stove tube and the fresh air tube attach to the nipples on the manifold? Do the metal pipes just slip on? Is there a short piece of vacuum hose that connects them as such the fresh air tube to the carb? Been searching far and wide for a photo of the proper connection but can't find anything on the web or the service manual.

Last summer I completely restored my Riv's AC system and got it blowing cold getting the cabin of my ride to a comfortable climate even in these 108º F days we've been having as of late here in Las Vegas, NV. I'd have to verify the part number but what I replaced my original compressor with was one of the Four Seasons A6 replacement compressors you refer to. I spent a lot of time trying to find a deal on one and it was through AutoZone with the use of a 20% discount coupon or something like that I was able to get one for $260 (including shipping!). I'm happy to say all through last summer and so far into this summer my AC is working just as I would hope it should and I haven't found any traces of slung oil in the engine compartment. Although if anyone has any photos of said slung oil I'd be interested to see what it looks like.

That should be enough info to go on. Thanks a lot guys!

...As I stated in the OP... Not a member... Don't have access.

I know this has been covered probably many times in the past and there's some sort of chart on the ROA website but I'm in a pinch for time right now and don't have the minutes to search through the forum. I also don't have membership access to the ROA members only content. How can I verify that a set of rally wheels is in fact off a '65? If I can get the numbers could some one look it up for me? Any help would be much appreciated and as I said time is of the essence here.

No kidding?! $35/mo at State Farm?! That's insured as a daily driver, with no classic vehicle plates or an appraisal or anything?

That's good to know. Like I said I entered in all the information as accurately and honestly as I possibly could including yearly mileage, not having another vehicle, driving it to and from work plus daily errands etc. and it spit back a very desirable yearly premium for a $100,000 property and bodily damage liability policy and an agreed value of $30,000. So, so far it's looking like Grundy is getting my business.

Grundy seems to make the claim that they specialize in collector cars that are daily drivers and I was able to obtain a quote through them. I'm still interested to learn about anyone's direct experience with Grundy.

Just spoke to Hagerty and they won't insure it for the reason that's it's my daily driver. Tried to get a quote from Liberty Mutual (who I have my property insurance through) and they won't insure it because it's a classic vehicle. I suspect the latter will be the case with all of the big name insurance companies although for some reason USAA gave me a policy when I first bought it I get the feeling that they didn't really pay attention to what they were doing. I've been straight up with all of them as to what it is and what kind of mileage and use it gets. My intention is to insure it as a regular car with regular plates which it is. Not having much luck so far.

I don't have another car so not sure if Hagerty will work for me. Does anyone have any experience with Grundy?