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Everything posted by DV8

  1. I had already searched McMaster which is usually the first place I go to for this type of thing because the their search engine is far superior to any other database I'm aware of. I found a few things that probably would have worked but I'd prefer just finding some one here who had exactly what I needed and willing to throw a small quantity in the mail as a opposed to buying a bag of 100+ shipping when I only need one. I had kinda forgotten about Mr. G's because it had been a long time since I visited that sight but my memory was that the search engine was a little hit or miss. As it turns out a fellow ROA user reached out to me and it looks like I have what I need on the way to me so It looks like I'm set for now. Thanks for everyone's help.
  2. I'm not fanatical. I just need something that will fit in the tight spot that it's in, a matching head type and something that won't foul the threads that are already there. So far I can't find anything universal at Home Depot or AutoZone parts shop. I'm sure I will eventually but time is at a premium these days.
  3. 1/4" x 3/4" sheet metal screws with a 3/8" flanged hex head. Came off the rear bumper. Some of them hold the license plate frame in place, some hold parts of the bumper in place. I'm missing one and I thought I'd just post here before I go on the search for an exact replacement. Happy to PayPal, Venmo or Cash App anyone who could take a few minutes and throw one on the mail to me.
  4. Has anyone had issues with C.A.R.S. or OldBuickParts.com recently. They've usually been the first place I've looked for replaceable parts when I need them and found the fitment pretty simple and accurate. In the last few months they've messed up two orders with numerous missing items, have been completely unapologetic about it and taken their sweet time and made little effort to correct their mistakes. Where do you guys go to first for parts?
  5. Thanks for everyone's comments and sorry for the lack of update. I replaced the vacuum modulator which seemed to help especially with kick down. My next step and hopefully the other half of the issue is I'll be doing a complete ignition tune up including replacing plugs, wires, points, rotor, cap, adjust the dwell, timing and idle and choke and do an oil change. I realized it's been too long and too many miles since I did most of that. I'll keep you posted.
  6. It idles perfectly in Park and Neutral. It's only when I put it into Drive or Reverse that I get issues. Anyone would be hard pressed to get it to idle any smoother in Neutral than it does. If I set the idle speed or the fast idle any higher it just idles higher and still stalls when put into gear. This all leads me to the conclusion that it is NOT an issue of adjusting the idle. If there is an adjustment that only affects the idle RPM's when in Drive or Reverse please enlighten me.
  7. Does the transmission need to come out in order to replace the converter?
  8. That sounds like it could be the issue. I need more 'slip' at idle. So how or what do I do? Again, I know very little about transmissions.
  9. Sounds good. I'll start with checking the vacuum and the idle mixture screws which sound simple and inexpensive enough if anything needs to be replaced. I could use a little more information on the torque converter slipping though. Is there some kind of test I could run on that?
  10. 1965 Riviera 425 If there's one black hole in my overall knowledge of auto mechanics it's in transmissions so I'm reaching out as none of the symptoms I'm having seem to match any of the diagnosis in the shop manual exactly. Symptoms - Car stalls on warm up only when in Drive or Reverse. The best way I can put it is there seems to be an unusual amount of drag on the engine as soon as it's put into gear. It's not a matter of idle or fast idle adjustment. The engine runs smooth as ever even on start up in Park or Neutral. Increasing the idle or fast idle does just that and it still stalls as soon as I put it into gear. Once the car is warm the symptoms go away completely for the rest of the day until the next morning. It will go if I give it enough gas. My work around has been to just shift it into Neutral at the first couple of red lights until things have warmed up. I regularly change the oil and have recently changed the transmission fluid/filter/gasket. All fluid levels are where they should be. No slips and shifts into 2nd and 3rd when it should. Any help or advice would be much appreciated. Cheers, -DAVID
  11. Does anyone have a source for a couple of intact power window switch clips:
  12. Never would have guessed that. Well that explains why there is nothing about it in the shop manual. The master cylinder that was on my '65 had one too (apparently not the original). Anyone have any tips on how to seal it off permanently eliminating any chance for fluid leak?
  13. Newly rebuilt/refinished booster installed. Brand new ACDelco master cylinder installed. Can anyone tell me what the circled screw in the attached photo is, its purpose and torque specs? It was leaking fluid after bleeding the system and taking it for a test drive. I then added some thread locker and torqued it out as hard as I could. Seems to be holding but I'm curious what the proper installation procedure for it is. Can't find anything in the shop manual. It doesn't even seem to be pictured in the shop manual diagrams of the master cylinder.
  14. According to George at Harmon the purpose of the gasket is a metal against metal cushion that will create a seal that won’t squeak, creak or scrape paint when pressure is applied. This ACDelco part which was purchased on Amazon for less than $5 seems to be a perfect fit for almost all boosters of the era.
  15. I'm fine on workarounds. What I'm looking for is the part. The general consensus is that it's unavailable and therefore assumably not necessary for a daily driver.
  16. The purpose appears to be to keep dust and dirt out of the booster by creating a tight seal between the firewall and the booster where the operating rod protrudes. The one I pulled off of mine and the diagrams in the shop manual have a flange to the center opening. I'm not sure how effective it would be without that flange and that's not something one can do with scissors. I would sooner use some auto gasket material and cut that to shape but that won't have the flange that seems to seal right up to the operating rod boot.
  17. Bump. Thought I had found the plastic 'retainer' at RockAuto but they sent me something else. Anyone know where I can find this plastic retainer or gasket in the photo in my last post? I've also seen it referred to as a "Firewall seal."
  18. In the process of removing the booster to have it rebuilt the plastic gasket in the photo that goes between the booster and the bracket on the firewall that it mounts to essentially crumbled. Does anyone know where I can find a replacement for this part?
  19. There’s a chapter in the shop manual for ‘Manual Brakes’ which is one of the things that lead me to that conclusion but I suppose that must have been for other models for which power brakes were an option.
  20. I really couldn’t answer that with any certainty but the way I understood it was that some of the the cars may have left the factory with manual brakes (which was the same master cylinder just without a booster) and if a buyer chose a power brake option (because I believe it was in fact an option back then like cruise control or deluxe upholstery) that the dealer would install the booster. Again I’m really not sure that was the case but that almost makes sense to me.
  21. Update: Had a few conversations with George at Harmon Classic Brakes which seems to be the source for all the rebuild kits that everyone uses. A few bits of good information that he gave me: ’65 is what he referred to as a “crossover year.” There was a strike at GM at the time and Buick was putting whatever boosters they had just to get them out of the factory which is the reason some ‘65’s have a Delco Moraine, some have a Bendix or, like mine you have a dealer installed Bendix Master Vac 9”. After removing the booster, I began disassembling it according to the shop manual following the instructions for the Delco Moraine unit (because, best I could tell, that’s what I thought I was dealing with). It quickly became apparent that I am not equipped with tools with enough torque to pop the housing open. I snapped a few photos and sent them off to George and he advised me that I, in fact, had the dealer installed Bendix Master Vac unit and that that particular model is near impossible to crack open without specialty tools. Also that, even if I did get it open without damaging it, there’s a good chance of the spring damaging me. I promptly heeded his advice, boxed it up and shipped it off to be rebuilt which is where I’m presently at. They do have all the rebuild kits at Harmon that come with a lot of good information. Their prices and expertise seem to be on par with Booster Dewey.
  22. Thanks, everyone for sharing your experiences and resources. I now have many more options to explore than I had just yesterday. I’m curious if anyone has any experience with a company called Prior Brake Products rebuilding their booster unit. It’s just one other option I’m looking into and it seems to be the most economical one.
  23. So my brakes are requiring a lot more ‘knee grease’ than usual to come to a complete stop. Still stopping just fine though. I’ve been hearing a hiss from them for quite some time. I’m assuming rebuilding the power break booster will bring it back to normal. My question is does anyone know of a source for reliable parts to rebuild the booster? I can find a master cylinder rebuild kit which I will also rebuild in the process but finding the right kit for the booster seems limited. One or two items on Ebay but all old stock. I’m dealing with the Delco Moraine power brake system on a ‘65 Riviera.
  24. Well what do you know... Upon closer inspection of the dimmer switch it appears that when replacing it I accidentally "Missed" one of the blades in the connecting harness and bent it slightly out of the way. Turns out that was the easy fix. Thanks for the help as always, guys!
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