DrP

Me, I thought it was Zora Arkus Duntov...... (Ask an old car guy; he'll know Duntov.)

Waldron's a great source and a joy to work with and am getting my complete system from them. However, replacement mounts by set only and almost $300 for the set. Quite a ways north of my budget.

Got it Ed. And we'll make one as you suggested. Thanks. Dale

Anyone have a Hollander Interchange manual? Are any other GM hangers of this era interchangeable?? Part number would be helpful. thanks

Want to buy; original, rear tailpipe bracket. Left hand (driver's) side. This is the one where short tailpipe comes out of the crossflow muffler. All I have of the original is the piece where it bolts to the body and part of the rubber which is torn and the tailpipe end missing. Any help appreciated.

Thanks guys. Got the right belt thanks to Ed.

Replacing all drive belts but having a "dilemma" with supplier of AC Delco belts. They sent me a belt for power steering pump that don't fit my car. They show AC Delco #15512 for power steering pump belt for air cond but this belt has a circumference of 51 5/8 in. For my 401 with air conditioning this belt is about 3 inches too short. I'm told this #15512 is the application shown for my car. Really frustrating going back and forth Does anyone have a better number for AC Delco belt OR the number for other mfg I may cross reference. for my power steering pump drive belt? Any help is appreciated.

Thank you Ed (and for all you do for ROA and the Forum). Got in touch with Booster Dewey and cancelled the gold cadmium plating so now he will only clean my booster well with alcohol and return as sent. Plan to clear coat it when returned as well as the mc cover. Talked with Booster Dewey twice. He is really a great guy and very helpful. Thanked him for supporting ROA by advertising in our mag. He said his experience is that the Riviera owners are "a great bunch of guys".

Ed: Checked your suggestion above. Power booster on that car looks silver to me. Mine is silver but maybe?? gold anodized turns silver after 52 years? Seems I read a list of under hood parts colors somewhere - maybe from you Ed - and booster color and master cylinder color were indicated as gold anodized. Have to make a decision soon since my booster is on the way to Booster Dewey. He said they gold anodize them at +$50 but I want to be positive of original color. Any ideas appreciated.

Question on original color from the factory of '63 brake booster. Think I remember Ed had a great list of under hood colors and brake booster was originally gold anodized as was the master cylinder cover. Is this correct? Thanks to Ed I have THE answer. It is silver as well as the m/c cover.

Getting ready to send off power booster to "Booster" Dewey. Since I'm keeping car in original condition, need to know the color of the original booster unit. Dewey said he believes it was anodized gold from factory and he can plate it as original. When I took the booster off the car it looks sort of silver. Anyone know the correct color. My car was built the second week of June '63.

Yes Larry. I need all four wheels. PM me with info. Thanks.

Anyone have NOS brake shoes containing asbestos?? Set of 4?

Have exhausted research on previous postings and ROA archives and nothing gives full info I need. Will be doing a FULL brake system renovation with goal of keeping it all in stock condition. Understand dual master cylinder is safety feature but plan to stay with single, original. Will replace steel lines, rubber hoses, all cylinders, brake hardware, shoes, booster i.e., everything in the braking system. Have steel lines from Inline Tube, rubber hose for rear and two for front, brake hardware and shoes (from nearby parts store). Drums seem good (less than 25,000 miles.) May have to turn front but likely less than .030". Plan to have shoes ground to fit drum. Any advice on reworking drums is appreciated. Will lube the moving points on drum hardware at reassembly. Some questions: 1. CARS has wheel cylinders at $42.50 ea front and $39.50 ea rear. NAPA and others have wheel cylinders for 1/2 that. What is special about CARS wheel cylinders? Anyone use NAPA or ?? 2. Plan to have master cylinder bored and sleeved with a stainless steel sleeve. Anyone done this? If so, advise good shop/vendor where I may get this done please. 3. Will send booster to Booster Dewey as he is long time ROA supporter. 4. The old issue of what brake fluid to use. Since I'll have a "clean" system I could change from DOT 3. Any advice? Any other advice regards brake work while I'm in it is solicited.

Ed and others: Having difficulty finding the CARS website. Any help with locating them is appreciated. Tnanks

Well said Ed. Always practical and efficient idea to follow up and assure of orders either on line or at local suppliers. Dale

Ed; We live in Kalifornia. That ain't gonna happen. Quietliion: I had this very same dilemma when trying to register my '63 last year after many years of storage, without registration, in Calif and the owner living in a care facility in Utah. Seller had to have Utah DMV sign that the car had never been registered in Utah. Go to a DMV office and ask for the form used for verifying VIN by CHP inspection. Might have to give them a story about car not being drivable to get the car in for inspection and you want to have all forms necessary. I had to raise my request to a supervisor level. DMV website has downloadable forms but local DMV gave me one. On that form there is a place where any CA sworn peace officer (Local Cop, Sheriff, etc) can attest and sign that they inspected the info and the car and attest and verify the vehicle's ID. There are so many stolen cars in CA that DMV is trying to do what they can to catch them. Now, the rub: it may be difficult to find a sworn officer to do this unless he is a pal. It took me three weeks and four trips to DMV before the job was done so be patient and don't scream at them. They get lots of that and they are immune. Good luck.

Now I see you got it registered and that's great news.

Ed; We live in Kalifornia. That ain't gonna happen. Quietliion: I had this very same dilemma when trying to register my '63 last year after many years of storage (car was stored in friend's warehouse in CA) without registration being kept up to date and the ill owner living in a care facility in Utah for past five years with no CA address. Seller - her son- had to have Utah DMV sign that the car had never been registered in Utah. Go to a DMV office and ask for the form used for verifying VIN by CHP inspection. Might have to give them a story about car not being drivable to get in for inspection and you want to have all forms necessary. I had to raise my request to a supervisor level. DMV website has downloadable forms but local DMV gave me one. Read and understand this form. On the form there is a place where any CA sworn peace officer (Local Cop, Sheriff, etc) can attest and sign that they inspected the info and the car and attest and verify the vehicle's ID. (There are so many stolen cars in CA that DMV is trying to do what they can to catch them.) Now, the rub: it may be difficult to find a sworn officer to do this unless he is a pal. It took me three weeks and five trips to DMV before the job was done. So be patient, persistent and firm. Don't scream at them. They get lots of that and they are immune. Might help to wear a suit and tie to meeting, tuck your pony tail under a hat and remove visible piercings. And, bow a scrape a lot. Good luck.

Paul: PM me and I'll give the connection.

There is a guy near me who has an original '63 salesman's guide used for sales training and reference in the Buick showrooms. It lists all models of '63 and the section on Riviera is about 35 pages detailing all features from frame and suspension to interiors and options. It is in a Buick clip ring binder. If anyone is interested I'd be happy to put you in touch with him for photos and more details. He's asking $90 before he puts it on eBay.

That sure is a good question. I haven't gotten that far on my system replace. I know there is two at each of the rear tailpipes as I've seen what remains of mine bolted to the car there. Having some cancer treatment so not able to get under the car for a couple of months. Let me know what you discover. Did you see the price on the Waldron set? $268. They told me they can restore your old set but call them for a quote as they have to "look" at them. I suppose a photo would work. Did you get the aluminized or stainless set? Dale.

Another original "Spruce Green" 63 Riv gone.......The guy's craftsmanship and work is exceptional. To everyone their own and it's their car to do with as they wish but, personally, pangs me to see the originality of these cars modified. Modifications, however, are certainly inspired by the original basic design perfection achieved by Bill Mitchell and his engineers.

Ed you're the "get things done guy" for sure. If you want to make a "hanger repair kit" with these parts for others I'd be interested. I'd help amortize the cost of the rivet clincher AND would not even ask to borrow it well...unless you are coming to Calif soon.lol Did the order with Waldron for the full aluminized exhaust system set in "quiet". They allowed me to delete the aluminized muffler and substitute s/s. Thanks Chris, they did say they have a 7-8 week lead time. BTW shipping to Calif and Colo is $266. Ship to other states is $80. We are so "special" in CA.

Talked with a helpful lady at Waldron's today. She said we could send our old hangers to them for replacing rubber and rivets, renovating and spraying black. "Probably" under $100 for the set but should verify.