Quietlion79

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About Quietlion79

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  • Birthday 07/30/1979

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    Male
  • Location:
    Los Angeles, CA, USA, Earf
  1. Thanks Fuzz! I found a manual for a 66 rivi online and I wanted to make sure the torque specs were the same and they are! What that quote you posted means is that the propellershaft (driveshaft) "shoulder" (on the joint) must be backed off about 1/2" from the end of the transmission tailshaft. I ended up torquing them to the low side of the range, 75 and 15, respectively. I would guess that would be ok. Your help is much appreciated! Is your Rivi in the picture hunter green in color? Looks like a nice shade.
  2. Hey All, I was wondering if someone could help me out this afternoon. I had my driveshaft rebuilt and have reinstalled it, but I am not sure what the proper torque specs are for the 2 bolts on the carrier bearing and the four bolts on the differential flange. I will be buying/downloading a shop manual shortly, but I was wondering if someone could help me out with the specs for now so I can get it off the jacks and attend to the other issue I have (replacing the vacuum advance). The PO apparently didn't realize the vac advance was leaky and decided to compensate by advancing the timing. Thanks in advance! Andy
  3. Just an update. I went to the CHP office in Valenica, CA today and Officer Mitchell inspected the car. All went silky smooth and my title is in the mail. Got plates and tags shortly thereafter. He didn't even check the frame numbers, but i told him I had found them and marked them for him. Took about 15 minutes tops. It would have been shorter, but he's a pilot and I'm learning to be one, so we got sidetracked. Anyways, now on to figure out how to get my black and yellow plates on my car. Seems like i need to by a repro 1964 sticker and put it on my plates, then bring it in to the DMV so they can put a 2016 sticker on over it (!). Gotta love California DMV rules. Thanks again, everyone for the help and support.
  4. Car is straight and in overall good shape. It runs, drives, stops and shifts well. Interior is in fair to good shape. Carpets would need to be replaced (or just throw floormats over it), headliner looks clean, dash has a few cracks and the seats are in great shape. Transmission was completely rebuilt recently ($1200), the radiator has been recored ($450), carburetor rebuilt, ignition module replaced (Mopar unit), hoses replaced and a full tune up has been done as well. It doesn't have much rust, floorpans and trunk pan are solid, just some below the vinyl top which will require metal replacement (the vinyl top could use some repair as well), it needs two front tires at this time. Paint is in pretty good shape overall, with some minor imperfections. Open to any questions or other picture requests you might have. More photos and details are available from the owner (my roommate). Clean title on non op, no tickets or back fees. Located in the San Fernando Valley. Asking $3500/obo
  5. Car is straight and in overall good shape. It runs, drives, stops and shifts well. Interior is in fair to good shape. Carpets would need to be replaced (or just throw floormats over it), headliner looks clean, dash has a few cracks and the seats are in great shape. Transmission was completely rebuilt recently ($1200), the radiator has been recored ($450), carburetor rebuilt, ignition module replaced (Mopar unit), hoses replaced and a full tune up has been done as well. It doesn't have much rust, floorpans and trunk pan are solid, just some below the vinyl top which will require metal replacement (the vinyl top could use some repair as well), it needs two front tires at this time. Paint is in pretty good shape overall, with some minor imperfections. Open to any questions or other picture requests you might have. More photos and details are available from the owner (my roommate). Clean title on non op, no tickets or back fees. Located in the San Fernando Valley. Asking $3500
  6. I AM sleeping better. Again, Chris thanks so much for all your help. Although I got off easy with my particular vehicle (as it was garaged and from SoCal), there was still a little rust on it. I hope this thread helps others in the future as well.
  7. Hey everyone! I'm happy to report that I found both VIN stampings and they were the same as the one on my title. Woohoo! I think this car really was a garage queen most of her life, as there was not too much to clean off. It took about an hour or so. I used my trusty nitecore flashlight (more of a light gun, really) and a 1" adjustable mirror and found them pretty easily thanks to Chris's guidance. Mine started about 4" aft of the entrance of the parking brake cable into the frame and about 7" aft of the last body mount. Both pretty legible, although the first "7" was missing on both of them. I made scratch marks to make it easy for the CHP officer and I may go back with a paint marker just to make it that much easier. Thank you all VERY MUCH for your guidance and suggestions. I will report in my results after the inspection (after which it is STRAIGHT to the dmv...hopefully I can just go right to my restored, correct YOM black and yellow plates. )
  8. Thanks Chris, I am going to get back on this task later in the afternoon. I have a memorial flyover to shoot in a bit. Much appreciated!
  9. Paul- Maybe I will give that suggestion a shot next week...no harm in asking, right? Thanks for the info about it sometimes being printed on the reg card as well. Good to know. I hope to have some time to look at the frame this weekend. With Alini's great reference pic, at least I know roughly what I am looking for (Thanks so much for posting that, Alini). At least it is near the outside edge of the frame...maybe I'll have enough clearance to run a 90 degree-angled pick over the top of the frame and "feel" where the VIN is stamped. Mick - Wow, I guess my situation isn't so bad, thanks for the perspective. Best of luck with your situation. RoadShark- Yup, seems like there really is no rhyme or reason...no uniform set of rules and each state does its own thing. I suppose that is both good and bad.
  10. Paul, I'm just as confused as you are. I have registered and titled old cars in CA in the past and all I've needed was the title and whether it is "in the system" or not, I would walk out with current registration, tags and a title on the way in the mail. I'm wishing at this point that I just sucked it up and waited in line at the DMV, because apparently most AAA reps have no idea what to do with old cars. I didn't mention the missing VIN tag on my first visit to AAA, as I wasn't even aware that it was missing at the time. They said straight away that the car had to be verified, so I came back a second time and that's when I realized there was no VIN tag. Additionally, what raised the AAA rep's radar was that the number on the engine was different than on the title. THis prompted the third visit (with new tag) and the (now third different rep) staed that the tag didn't look like it had been on the car since 1964. This "necessitated" the stamp and instructions to go see CHP. I have made an appointment in t-minus 12 days. I hope the officer is patient, knowledgeable and kind. Till then, I will be looking for the frame stamped VINS. I have been tempted to go to a registration service, and it is true that the stamp may not be indicative that it is "officially" in the system, but I think I may be too far down the paperwork rabbit hole at this point. I may try calling the DMV and see if I can glean some further info on this over the phone. If I can find the frame VINs myself, I will fell a whole HELL of a lot more confident about going to CHP. RIght now I am a little worried (have even lost sleep over this). I thought this would have been easy, just like the 60 tbird, 67 galaixe fastback and others that have gone before...
  11. I did some checking around and found some great vehicle idenitifcation companies in the SoCal area, but it seems that in my situation I must go only to CHP. I will be setting up an appointment soon. I was thinking of goign to the one in NewHall instad of the West San Fernando Valley as I am hoping they have a lighter workload and can take the time required to locate the frame VINs (That I can hopefully locate before I go in). I'll let you all kno how it turns out. If I cancel my account here at the Riviera owners forum, I guess you'll know that I am not an owner any longer. :\
  12. Paul, your sage advice is most appreciated. The previous owner will be completing a "statement of facts" for (He's actually an EX-LEO from the stolen cars dvision...maybe he has a friend that is still on the force that can verify it??) and I was thinking about trying to track down the original owner to have them fill one out as well to explain the engine change. Maybe that is going overboard? I'd rather do too much than too little. I have some other assorted paperwork in my "gallery", including the protect-o plates and a shot of the plate on the console that names the person in the owner's manual and some of the other paperwork. I hope that will help matters. I am certainly leaning towards the independent inspector route, but as you can see they put a note on the registration that states "CHP only" (when they saw the new VIN plate), I guess I can just get a new registration form printed out when I go to the dmv or the dmv services place I plan to use. I ran both the title VIN and the engine VIN through NICB and both came up clean *whew* That "blue tag" scenario sounds like a real bummer. I'd probably have to get it smogged too! If I do end up going to CHP (I have till 10/15 on my temporary permit) I will DEFINITELY find the frame VINs before i go. I uploaded a bunch of pics to my gallery, both of the car and of the documentation.
  13. Hi Jason, Boy that doesn't fill me with much confidence in my chances. I hope I can find SOMETHING because it sounds like the CHP will not put much effort into it...and then what? They take my car???