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Everything posted by jglawnyc

  1. Wow, really...no one out there with a lead to my dream? Shyhawk T type? I’ll keep hopeful 😊
  2. It’s about time I finally get around to this bucket list item. Im looking for a great condition 2nd generation 1980’s era Skyhawk T, notch or hatch. Exhausted from a Reatta resto and the 65 Skylark is done, so now I want to get the one car I’ve always had a strange fascination for. Fell in love in high school and college with this vehicle, so now is the time. I’m hoping my Buick BCA brethren can come through. Please get back to me if you can help.
  3. I am awed by the knowledge out there of our beloved Buick’s, and all cars. Thanks guys, and ....WOW Kong, great advice, and WOW John, I could only find one other photo, and it wasn’t nearly as clear as yours! And 5563, thanks too. We are ultimately responsible to be good caretakers of these wonderful vehicles while they are in our care, and you guys are great examples. Thanks again, and I welcome any other info out there.
  4. WHERE?! I tried the BCA techs, but no responses. My basic research shows that on 1965 Skylark convertibles the rear power window switch was on the armrest, not on the side panels, like in hardtops. I guess I understand why...so as to avoid wires around the convertible top mechanicals. I am installing an original style p/w system and miraculously had found original convertible rear side panels (no cut outs for window crank), so I will have to carefully cut in the existing armrests to put the switch. Seems like a strange place....Does anyone out there know exactly where I have to make the opening? How far exactly behind the ashtray does the switch get mounted. Crazy esoteric question, huh? I’m trusting in my fellow Buick guys to come thru. Thanks. Jeff BCA 34813 While waiting, I’ll take a drive in the Reatta!
  5. jglawnyc

    Cars in China

    It was my response, and I was wondering if sales of classics and collectibles would at some point take off in a country (2nd largest economy on Earth) that loves Buicks. If so, our Reattas may be a bit more in demand if the Chinese start seeking out classic Buicks. Ecomomics 101 - Supply and Demand.
  6. According to my wise and experienced mechanic....YES, they are safe. Case closed. Thats all you have to remember. Happy Reatta miles to you and all!
  7. jglawnyc

    Price watch

    I believe it is mirroring the uptick in America, and the confidence in our burgeoning economy. My guess is that supply and demand on these wonderful cars isn't changing all that much. As our cars are beginning to turn 30 years old, it will be interesting to see how many Reatta owners or potential owners are going to put the investment into buying and maintaining them. If anyone knows....are our Reattas heading overseas to foreign collectors at all? That may cause a real value increase due to demand. Isn't China both: full of Buick lovers; and also have the worlds largest middle class? Are classic cars a popular hobby there yet? Hmm.
  8. I'm very angst-ridden. My Reatta is gone. Yesterday we sent Reynaldo (91 Polo Green coupe) off from here in Brooklyn, across the water on a South American cosmetic surgery junket. OK, the water was the "Narrows" part of New York Harbor, and South America is really Staten Island. However, thanks to the decent price (I might as well have been throwing dollar bills out the Reatta's window all the way across the Verrazano Bridge!) and greater reputation of a shop I found way out in the hinterland, Reynaldo will be getting all the botox and fillers he needs, along with an original Polo Green re-paint, to return to youthful beauty. 7 to 10 days........hmm, how am I gonna get through this. I'm thinking about the car all day and can't wait to see how it turns out. (By the way, I went with the matte black side mirrors).
  9. Yeah, the kids especially, they don't understand the concept of a retractable antenna. I get the rear thing, the Reatta's rounded sculps are great,, but I actually feel a more intense rear fascination for my '65 Skylark's mid-century modern taillights.. I'm sitting here debating if I should bring the Reatta in today or not? Right now I'm thinking that no matter how good the body and paint come out, there is nothing I can do about the front and rear glass rubber seals and aluminum bumpber tops front and rear, so is it all worth it. But, I'll find a way to justify it because iIt isn't all about $'s and sense with these cars.
  10. Sorry to report to you Chris.....literally ZERO other squeals. After all the work, and $, to put things right, it drives like a new car...amazing and satisfying. Yet I am now challenged to get the car looking great on a shoestring budget. Painting being scheduled, interior next. Maybe no audible issues, but optical ones abound.
  11. Thanks, Ronnie. I often disagree with the mechanic too, but understand his concern. Any ideas on the connector? or is it better to make due with a zip tie and stop obsessing about having each perfect part?
  12. Thanks guys...all great suggestions....in the middle of all this I stop by my mechanic who got animated proclaiming "NEVER touch the MAF sensor!!!" However, I'm still trying to squeeze out MPG's. I will get back as to the strip screw fixes.
  13. Thanks Barney, just checked ebay and they have an adult thigh cuff, nice and big, for about ten bucks with shipping. I'm just going to have to figure out how to mate the air supply hose.
  14. So I've done the struts and strut mounts, front cradle bushings, tires, and just recently, the ball joints, front lower control arm bushings, and some other bushing I don't remember, and still there was a skreech/sqeal coming from the driver front side on every deep road dip. NOW GONE!!!! It was a loose support bar (the one that goes from the front header to the strut tower. Apparently the hole in the bar had widened and the bolt that attached to a secured nut in the driver front wheel well was stripped to the point of near failure. This has been bothering me for years! All gone replaced by new bolt and nut from wheel well underneath, and with the new suspension rubber, etc, she drives quiet and smooth like new. Now time for repaint and wheel resto, then interior.....stay tuned.
  15. I found a great artisan with an amazing reputation to redo my driver's seat, $500 to $600, i think thats fair. He said he would put in a new lumbar bladder while doing the work if I got him one. Thats my question to you out there. Is there a known favored lumbar bladder (blood pressure cuff) replacement that we use for our Reattas? Also, and suggestions on mating the new bladder to the air supply....below is a pic of the feed that is now hanging away from the disintegrated old bladder under my seat. Thanks
  16. With the beautiful day here in Brooklyn, I decided to give a little time for Reatta bonding. Bought some MAF sensor cleaner and got to work, removing two of three screws, and STRIPPING the third!!! (lower part of MAF, right of the connector) I'm gonna try a small needle nose vice grip to see if I can still get a little meat to grab, otherwise my MAF sensor will remain with the great unwashed....I also broke the connector tab...anyone have another or know where I can get? It is tight for now. Will Seafoam help clean the MAF sensor? Thanks all
  17. I did the 6 front cradle bushings a few months ago....i found the parts by searching the Reatta Owners Journal forums for the part info checklist instructions and availability. Purchased the parts and gave to my mechanic. He charged $400 for the labor. Dont recall now but parts were under $100. Just did ball joints and front control arm bushings last week. Car is now supersolid.
  18. jglawnyc

    MPG woes

    Brooklyn, New York....I know, I know........at least I don't have to be in LA. Ronnie, I will try checking ECM closed loop if I can, but how can I " check to make sure the torque converter is locking above about 47 MPH"? Is it just a sound or feel in the engine while at that speed? Ronnie you once suggested I might have a leaky injector, any simple way to check for that and are injecters a do-able replacement for a novice-ish guy like myself or will it require my mechanic? Thanks
  19. jglawnyc

    MPG woes

    Just got back from my first gas-up after new O2 sensor (and oil pressure sensor) and mileage on my 91 coupe with 135k miles went from about 11 to almost 14 on mostly city driving. I accept it happily, but not nearly the kind of increase I wanted. Where do I go from here......knock sensor, new injectors, plugs/wires, coils with or without ICM, MAF sensor cleaning, Seafoam?...I don't know what to do next. I'm jealous of the rest of you "high mileage" Reattos out there.
  20. I thought I had a tranny problem too. My 91 "shuddered" around 40-50 mph, and especially going uphill....turned out that when I cleaned the connections between the plug wires and the ICM coil leads (one was quite rusty) the problem vanished. 6 months later, same issue but very minor....again cleaned as before (this time only slight rust) and again problem vanished. I need to replace plugs/wires/coils-ICM at some point, but for now its fine. By the way, do any of you experience that if you drive at least a little every day (or close to that) the car seems happier and better performing?
  21. Which is why its a great idea to keep a windshield shade at the ready, as well as to protect our dashes and crack tending leather.
  22. I spent about 10 bucks on a Bluetooth device that plugs into my Reatta's console area lighter and allows me to do hands free calls and XM from my phone app. Cheap and easy. Amozon search was for FM Bluetooth converter.
  23. I'm not sure what "clunk" is but my '91 coupe was "bucking" when accelerating in the 40-50 mph zone or uphill, I thought I had a tranny problem. When I looked at the ICM, I found rust build-up on the metal coil leads to the spark plug wires. After sanding and cleaning the rust on the coil leads and inside the spark plug wire caps....problem gone. Acceleration is now smooth, uphill or otherwise.
  24. Hi all, another nor'easter snow day in NYC - darn this global cooling! I'm arranging a full repaint of my '91 coupe (see pic attached of current condition). I want to to everything original, including properly spaced gold (?) colored pinstripes. Any advice or suggestions as I pursue this costly process? Also, if anyone cares to chime in....prospective bodyshop suggested an option, paint the currently black side view mirrors body-color (green) or original matte black? All replies are welcome.
  25. Barney and Ronnie......you are the Reatta Zen Masters! I went to my trusted mechanics and explained its impossible to find NEW lower control arms. The mechanic who does the work said that they do have a hydraulic press and could replace the bushings and ball joints on the control arms, but the owner of the shop said that "the much better way is to replace the entire control arms because with the new rubber, they are still 27 year old pieces of metal and might have rust issues, plus its much more labor intensive to just do the bushings and ball joints" You are right, they want to replace the entire part. Have researched control arm bushings and ball joints and they are sitting in a Rock Auto basket ready to be purchased. Thanks as always!