jglawnyc

With the beautiful day here in Brooklyn, I decided to give a little time for Reatta bonding. Bought some MAF sensor cleaner and got to work, removing two of three screws, and STRIPPING the third!!! (lower part of MAF, right of the connector) I'm gonna try a small needle nose vice grip to see if I can still get a little meat to grab, otherwise my MAF sensor will remain with the great unwashed....I also broke the connector tab...anyone have another or know where I can get? It is tight for now. Will Seafoam help clean the MAF sensor? Thanks all

I did the 6 front cradle bushings a few months ago....i found the parts by searching the Reatta Owners Journal forums for the part info checklist instructions and availability. Purchased the parts and gave to my mechanic. He charged $400 for the labor. Dont recall now but parts were under $100. Just did ball joints and front control arm bushings last week. Car is now supersolid.

Brooklyn, New York....I know, I know........at least I don't have to be in LA. Ronnie, I will try checking ECM closed loop if I can, but how can I " check to make sure the torque converter is locking above about 47 MPH"? Is it just a sound or feel in the engine while at that speed? Ronnie you once suggested I might have a leaky injector, any simple way to check for that and are injecters a do-able replacement for a novice-ish guy like myself or will it require my mechanic? Thanks

Just got back from my first gas-up after new O2 sensor (and oil pressure sensor) and mileage on my 91 coupe with 135k miles went from about 11 to almost 14 on mostly city driving. I accept it happily, but not nearly the kind of increase I wanted. Where do I go from here......knock sensor, new injectors, plugs/wires, coils with or without ICM, MAF sensor cleaning, Seafoam?...I don't know what to do next. I'm jealous of the rest of you "high mileage" Reattos out there.

I thought I had a tranny problem too. My 91 "shuddered" around 40-50 mph, and especially going uphill....turned out that when I cleaned the connections between the plug wires and the ICM coil leads (one was quite rusty) the problem vanished. 6 months later, same issue but very minor....again cleaned as before (this time only slight rust) and again problem vanished. I need to replace plugs/wires/coils-ICM at some point, but for now its fine. By the way, do any of you experience that if you drive at least a little every day (or close to that) the car seems happier and better performing?

Which is why its a great idea to keep a windshield shade at the ready, as well as to protect our dashes and crack tending leather.

I spent about 10 bucks on a Bluetooth device that plugs into my Reatta's console area lighter and allows me to do hands free calls and XM from my phone app. Cheap and easy. Amozon search was for FM Bluetooth converter.

I'm not sure what "clunk" is but my '91 coupe was "bucking" when accelerating in the 40-50 mph zone or uphill, I thought I had a tranny problem. When I looked at the ICM, I found rust build-up on the metal coil leads to the spark plug wires. After sanding and cleaning the rust on the coil leads and inside the spark plug wire caps....problem gone. Acceleration is now smooth, uphill or otherwise.

Hi all, another nor'easter snow day in NYC - darn this global cooling! I'm arranging a full repaint of my '91 coupe (see pic attached of current condition). I want to to everything original, including properly spaced gold (?) colored pinstripes. Any advice or suggestions as I pursue this costly process? Also, if anyone cares to chime in....prospective bodyshop suggested an option, paint the currently black side view mirrors body-color (green) or original matte black? All replies are welcome.

Barney and Ronnie......you are the Reatta Zen Masters! I went to my trusted mechanics and explained its impossible to find NEW lower control arms. The mechanic who does the work said that they do have a hydraulic press and could replace the bushings and ball joints on the control arms, but the owner of the shop said that "the much better way is to replace the entire control arms because with the new rubber, they are still 27 year old pieces of metal and might have rust issues, plus its much more labor intensive to just do the bushings and ball joints" You are right, they want to replace the entire part. Have researched control arm bushings and ball joints and they are sitting in a Rock Auto basket ready to be purchased. Thanks as always!

Hi all: Due to "crunchy" sound from my front suspension, on suggestion from my mechanic to replace them, I recently asked the community about front lower control arms for my 91 coupe. I was able to get a great deal on ebay for NEW 91 Riviera left and right units, which all agreed were completely compatible with my Reatta. I don't know if the part stated by seller to be for a 91 Riv was a correct statement, but my mechanic said the parts I brought him dont even come close to being correct. I will deal with the ebay seller, but....I NEED THE FRONT LOWER CONTROL ARMS. Anyone have any, or any suggestions? One community member suggested a favored parts lot, but I'm reaching out here for any ideas. They look like the attached pics. Thanks.

I will try to take a picture tomorrow, there is a" LD" just above the "STEREO" display. The ROJ forum thread is " 90 Radio has Loudness Control, Really" and the posting is by Tinker, who on 11-29-16 wrote " I am an electronic technician, was the service manager in a HiFi Stereo store, and build speaker systems as a hobby. I first got my Reatta in 1995, and was very impressed with the quality of the stock Delco audio system. After a few months I noticed the sound just wasn't as full and rich as I had become accustomed to. It turned out that there are some hidden controls on this radio, and the Loudness had been inadvertently turned off. Here's how to fix it: Press the "Volume Down" (lower the volume) & "Fade Down" (send more sound to the rear speakers) at the same time. This will restore the loudness so that the audio sounds as great at low levels as it does at very high levels. Another hidden control affects the DNR (Dynamic Noise Reduction) for the cassette player. The restore procedure is: Press the "Volume Up" & the "Fade Up" at the same time. No, I don't use the cassette player, and Yes, I prefer the CD's It would be nice to know if any others out there appreciate quality audio." I (jglawnyc) was amazed at the results.

Hi all. I'm about to upgrade my 1991 Reatta coupe's speakers. Searched on ROJ, but the shop manual and other sources are confusing.....is it a 4 or 6 speaker system? The car seems to have 6 places for speakers (left and right upper doors, lower doors and rears). The shop manual makes reference to a Bose system but I think that's only for the Riviera. Is it 4 or 6, and does anyone have any speaker recommendations? ALSO, there are many bits of info I give thanks for in this Reatta community of ours, one is applicable here: on ROJ while researching this speaker topic a few days ago, I came across a posting saying there is a hidden LOUDNESS function for our radios (press down volume and rear fader together). Now I have significantly better sound AND the radio display which was working on-and-(mostly)-off now functions properly! Thanks one and all for your responses.

I fixed my loose horn buttons last fall and inspected the airbag on my 1991 coupe. Everything looked great, clean and as it should. I asked my trusted mechanic about it and he said that as long as things looked good and remained un-rusted under the wheel center cover, the air bag should be reliable for a very long time.

Thanks so much! I just wanted to be clear, and yes I don't understand it either but the mechanic has been rock solid and very reliable for years with my cars, so while I will question him further and get back about it, I trust what he says. I didn't have the car for its first 125,000 miles, but the seller did say it had a small front-end'er though other than my passenger headlight door opening about 1/2 inch less high than the driver's side, you cant tell. My steering wheel isn't super-tight and I've had a squeaky left front suspension for a long time, until the car gets very warmed up, when it quiets down. Much more quiet in the summer, but in the winter its annoying. Recently had new struts with strut mounts all around and front cradle bushings. When I got new tires a few months ago, while doing the alignment the mechanic said he couldn't get it perfect because of these lower front control arms. So here we are. Keep putting $ into the car, but trying to pace it. I'm sure you understand loving these Reattas. By the way Mr. Eaton, I'm the guy that used zip-ties to fix my headlight door motor cover....its still working great, but I will replace it in the next year as per my last email exchange with you. Thanks again!

Hi Mr. Eaton, I appreciate your response. My mechanic told me my 91 coupe needed a new set of front lower control arms, left and right, so although the left and right may differ, I understand your response to be that a Riviera's left and right front lower control arms will be the same as a Reatta's left and right? Am I understanding this correctly? If so, I will go ahead and get my parts. Found a really good price.

Does anyone out there know if the 1991 Reatta and 1991 Riviera front lower control arms interchange and can be used in each model? Thanks!

HUH?! There is a turn signal chime? 7 years of ownership and I never knew that, I just assumed it was very quiet, in direct contrast to my new Envision, which sounds like being in the first row at Wimbledon. Just looked at the Journal, nothing on this. What is the turn signal supposed to sound like if any...can I do a test, replace, etc? Thanks Ronnie

I had the tumbler replaced late last year on my green 91, and that's when this problem started, prior to that the car just wouldn't start MOST of the time. Now it mostly starts, just not always when warmed up, limiting my confidence to take it places and do errands, and most of all, do the expensive repaint. I've cleaned the keys, but then again, its a new tumbler, with new keys. I've tried taking out the VATS module to examine....JEEEEEZ, not easy for a man with normal size hands (am I supposed to admit to normal size?). Retired Mechanic offered advice on Ronnie's old site, and I'm going to have my mechanic try that, hopefully it works. Just to be clear, sometimes it takes an extra-special strong tumbler turn to start it, sometimes a little twisty type extra push with my thumb, and sometimes (usually after I've parked it running an errand) it just wont start. It seems finicky which is why I think it needs an adjustment. Ronnie, I was scared about this new (for me) forum, but feel great confidence knowing your here. What do I do about a cranky chime module? Also Ronnie, have you seen the Polo Green 91 just put up on ebay? I'm thinking of upgrading.

Hi all: I'm having the same exact problem with my ignitions. Bringing into the shop next week. Retired Mechanic from the Reatta Owners forum site suggested that I may need to adjust the screw at the base of the column on the ignition switch (this is NOT the lock cylinder) or that I may need a new such switch, however the problem is only intermittent, but enough that I don't feel comfortable using my Reatta more. Anyone have any updated info? If Breather sees this, did you get to resolution on your same issue? Thanks.

Getting back to the Reatta world after Christmas.....my mechanic suggests that same sound on my '91 may be the lower control arms. The noise stops after driving around a while and the car warms up, so I'm undecided on if I should spend the bucks to replace.

I did the front cradle mounts (there are 6, parts are easy to find) and it changed the car's ride for the (much) better. Also did the splices under the front seat which got so many of the fun accessories back to work, in addition to much more things, one step at a time. I have 135k miles and you need to be aware that you would be making a great commitment here. "Everything" is gonna go eventually....all sorts of modules, engine parts, suspension, etc. I have a polo green 91 coupe, IMO the best Reatta color, but a repaint is due and thats gonna be several thousand. You may be wiser to search for a lower mileage and better condition car even if its further distance. If you love the car, I understand, just get ready to pour $ into it. I am also a Buick nut (the Reatta, 65 Skylark and 17 Envision) and the classic car hobby ain't cheap. Even though the 65 is "done" every so often (like now) it needs to go in for a comprehensive look-over. If you have the dough, great for you, just be aware.

Visual check of connectors under the drivers seat revealed nice tight connections, still no auto-door locks, power mirror or remote fob operation. Fuse was fine. Now what!!!! ARGH!!!!!!! Thanks for the responses Reatta friends.

Please Reatta people, help me. The driver door lock switch on my 91 coupe stopped working, and I had my mechanic fix by replacing the acuator/switch and put in a new window motor while he was in there. The door lock switch now works great but........the remote unlock (and all other remote functions on both fobs), power side mirrors, auto door lock (shift to park-door open, shift to drive-door lock) and door courtesy light have all stopped working at the same time. I've checked all fuses, and after some research, checked all the harnesses under the drivers seat. Has anyone encountered this problem or have any suggestions? Also, the power recliners have been d/o/a since I got my beloved Reatta last year, although the motor seems to be working. However, the seat backs seems stuck, luckily bound up in acceptable positions. Any suggestions for this problem? Thanks Reatta Family!