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wayne sheldon

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Posts posted by wayne sheldon

  1. It appears to be the "Special" coupe, built for only about a year as I recall (late 1928/early 1929). Those are somewhat rare. They can be faked by padding a very common standard coupe, however, the interior shot appears to show the separate rear-side window pieces which if I recall correctly are unique to the "Special" coupe. But I could be wrong about that?

    When I was still in high school, and somewhat interested in a model A, I found one in a small town wrecking yard. Hence I read up on them a bit. I considered trying to buy the thing, but the owner thought it was a gold mine and wanted as much as a complete running car could be had for at that time. I haven't played with a model A Ford in almost fifty years now.

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  2. I am NO expert when it comes to these cars. What I do know about them tells me that they can be wonderful cars, IF they are well sorted and haven't been monkeyed with too much.

    The engines were problematical, and more than a few of them have had the engines changed. Which may or may not be a good or bad thing. I have heard that some Continentals had their problematic engines replaced by the smaller V12 from Zephyr models. And prewar and postwar engines differ somewhat, Some cars have wrong era engines in them. That I would imagine affects value considerably. If I were to get interested in the Lincoln Continental,? I would do some serious research into what is right or wrong on them, and what are considered "acceptable" fixes. I know that most of the issues that made them problematical do have acceptable fixes, things like improved water pumps or other non-drastic changes. 

    People I used to know loved the cars, and told me the "problems" they had can be corrected. The market on these seems to have been soft lately. Some very nice cars have been selling for well below what they were selling for a decade ago. Good deals are out there! But you need to know what to look for and what questions to ask.

     

    This is a great place to start! But someone that knows a lot more than I do will need to start filling in the blanks.

     

    You may also want to check around the V12 Lincoln section under the "Ford Products" thread section down below.

     

    https://forums.aaca.org/forum/95-v12-lincolns-only/

     

    Good luck!

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  3. 22 hours ago, MetroPetro said:

    IMG_0370.jpeg

     

     

    A Schacht water cooled high wheel automobile on the roads it was intended for. Like most high wheel automobiles, they were simple, and intended for the rough roads of small farming communities. The Schacht high wheeler can usually be spotted by their unusually large radiator on the front of the car. This basic model was produced for several years up to about 1910 or 1911. Schacht then built some standard style small automobiles for their final few years. Roads were improving, and the model T was taking the market by storm! Most farmers by 1910 were ready to accept automobiles, and masquerading as a buggy was no longer necessary.

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  4. Aerodynamics is interesting stuff. Working in communications systems and custom building specialized large antennas for systems, we had to factor in "wind loading"  to make certain that systems would not fail in high winds. Sort of automotive aerodynamics tossed on its ear? And, oh, some stories I can tell!

    The effect of the air on an object goes up exponentially with speed (whether the object is moving, or the air is moving, the effect and computations are basically the same). Forty mph was often considered a "tipping point" for speed. The difference between ten and twenty mph was negligible. Twenty to thirty, not much difference. While thirty to forty mph might begin making a notable difference, necessary changes to structure were still minor. However, get above about forty mph? Each additional ten mph will require some serious considerations to supporting structures!

    Basically, below forty mph, aerodynamics on automobiles really doesn't much matter. And prior to 1930, very few people actually ever drove at over forty mph.

     

    My hobby interests have always been with the earliest cars up to around 1930. As such, I have studied early cars, including racing cars, a lot. I always found early racing car designs to be very interesting. Alexander Winton built a power-house of a racing car in the late 1890s. Large wheels out in the open, but the chassis and engine were made low and mostly covered by sheet metal. At the back, the driver sat proud and high like he was sitting in a dining room chair! One of the fastest cars in the world in its day, and the driver himself was the one of the most significant wind drags.

    About 1901, Henry Ford built his first real racing car. "Sweepstakes" was a great looking car, and I wish I had a picture of it I could share. Unfortunately, the only couple pictures I do have are still claimed as property of Ford, and I do not have permission to share them. The driver sat high and proud! The Winton at that time was considered one of the fastest cars in the world! And Henry Ford driving "Sweepstakes" beat the Winton in an official grudge match!

    A bit later, Henry Ford built two more racing cars, nearly interchangeably alike. Both were among the fastest cars in the world at the time. if I recall correctly, one of them broke the mile in under fifty seconds mark! In 1904, after some improvements rebuilding the car from a crash, Henry Ford himself set a world speed record of 91.37 mph in the rebuilt 999. That record stood for a whole two weeks! (Things were changing fast in those days!)

    Ford999BarneyOldfieldHenryFord.jpg.d1bf2cda8f0175fec621fd7ed70995e9.jpg

     

    Henry Ford and Barney Oldfield in 999.

     

    1905 Ford six cylinder racing car with Frank Kulick at the wheel. A bit more aerodynamic?

    Ford1100cidsixracer.jpg.e5c1156f3e46c3a1b6a772c90b53365a.jpg

     

    About a year later, Frank Kulick was nearly killed when this car blew a tire at speed on a test run.

    They were poised to retake the world's land speed record with this car, however, after that crash, the official attempt was never made.

    The car had been unofficially clocked at land speed record speeds.

     

    By then, some racing cars were beginning to get serious attention to aerodynamics and wind drag. But it was another decade before regular automobiles began seriously cutting back on the wind drag.

     

     

     

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  5. Mounts on the slope of the front fender's inner skirt. Bolts through the fender to the support bracket underneath the fender. Then a small rod bolts between the two headlamp forks to steady the two front fenders together.

    Application? A lot of cars did something similar, some larger and heavier cars and a few small cars. Chevrolet used some very similar to that one for a few years, late 1910s and into the very early 1920s.

    A fair chance that may be what this one is from. But since I never owned one, I cannot be sure.

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  6. Pleased to hear someone is taking this one on and hopefully can get it back on the road where it belongs! These are neat and historically interesting cars. A good friend had a very similar and very original one years ago. The biggest problem he had getting his roadworthy was getting the brakes corrected. A previous owner had totally messed up the early hydraulic system his had. The Stutz club helped locating the parts he needed. 

  7. You are asking about the electrical pass-through insulator? A proper fitting replacement is of course best!

    However, the fit is not critical. I once used two small sink faucet washers. They were flat on one side, slightly cone shaped on the other side. I put one in from the inside, the other in from the outside with the cones pointed to each other through the hole. The cones "self centered" the washers in the hole. A small steel flat washer on both the inside and outside, then the wire connections, and tight, but not too tight. What is wrong with the idea is that the faucet washers are tough, but not solid enough to tighten really hard. That said, they were plenty tight and worked flawlessly for years. I eventually sold the vehicle.

     

    There are a lot of good reasons for "doing things right!" Not the least of which is just not having a bunch of half-baked flaky repairs on a car. However, sometimes an "available at any hardware store" fix can come in handy. I at the time, and still, have a sink washer assortment in a drawer in my home shop.

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  8. I hunted through a few of your replies to other posts and found you are in Oregon? 

    Some idea of geographic location is needed with things like these. Shipping costs are often deal breakers. And a lot of people refuse to even inquire if they don't have some idea of the location.

  9. Yeah those look like model A Ford tail lamps.

    I love Studebakers from the 1910s through the mid 1920s. I had a 1925 standard six many years ago, and loved it. I would love to again have any model through 1927 (the nickel era club I like cuts off at 1927). 

    I personally prefer cars that have been restored to something closer to how they were when they were late model cars. Not just the tail lamps, but the funky tailpipe, and the looks homemade spare tire carrier make me wonder what else they didn't make any effort to do correctly. "Follow the fad" poor choice of colors does hurt the car. The interior looks to be nicely done, however it is not correctly done for sedans of that era.

    The 1928 Commander is a fine model of Studebaker! The 354 ci big six had been Studebaker's powerhouse engine for over ten years! It began in 1915 (I had one!) and with minor upgrades and improvements in design it kept getting better.

    If someone wanted a late 1920s car to carry friends in comfort, and really did not care about the colors or the interior as it is? This could be a very enjoyable car if one could get it at a good price (And if a few things were more correctly done, the price wouldn't be out of line in my humble opinion).

    As always, with any collector car, one should check it over carefully before deciding to buy.

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  10. Yes, EXCELLENT save! You are to be congratulated.

    People wonder why I prefer mechanical brakes on my prewar cars. Nice demonstration. Hydraulic lines cylinders and other parts can and do sometimes fail with no warning whatsoever.

    Many times over the years, I have recommend taking your antique out somewhere safe, maybe an off day in a big parking lot? Practice using the emergency brake enough that you know how and where to grab the brake, and get to know the feel of the brakes. You should know what to expect. Stopping distances, the sounds it will make, whether they pull one way or the other. Practice it at different speeds, ten to twenty miles per hour, and a few times at speed.

    You want to know how it works, and what to expect from your emergency brake as much as you need to know that it is properly adjusted and usable! There have been a few times in my life that I was very happy I had done that myself when suddenly faced with a sudden catastrophic brake failure! And a few of those times were in relatively modern cars. A pickup I used for work for many years twice blew something without warning causing total service brake failure. The kicker was, that due to poor design, the "emergency brake" was useless. Nothing short of a complete redesign and total system replacement could fix it. In those cases, simply knowing that the emergency brake was useless, saved me the precious seconds instead of trying the emergency brake and go straight to the deep downshifting (at 35 mph, I went straight from forth gear down into second!) and steering out of it!

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