cudaman
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Posts posted by cudaman
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Is there a strong smell of gas when you open the hood after the car dies? If so, it sounds to me like the carburetor is flooding on deceleration and/or downhill slopes. It's bad enough that the engine floods and dies, then you have to wait for all the extra gas to evaporate before the engine will start again. Maybe the carburetor float is soaked with gas or is leaking and barely has enough buoyancy to close the fuel needle on the flat. When the car descends or brakes, the fuel pressure goes up and forces the needle off its seat, flooding the engine.
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Here is the key for the Splitdorf coil box on my 1912 Flanders. It serves no electrical function, it just links the front and back plates of the switch together so that the back section will turn with the front section.
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Frank, I realize this thread is old, did you ever get your answer? That switch looks very much like the switch on the coil box of my 1912 Flanders, here are some pics.
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You're right - Arty Condito is working on two cars at once, a 1910 Flanders 20 and a 1909 Maxwell A. I got them mixed up, sorry. I removed the picture.
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Here is a picture of what Arty is looking for. Some boxes have a white button instead of red. The button interrupts the primary circuit when the box is switched to "battery", firing the coil and hopefully causing a "free start" without having to crank the engine. Notice I said "hopefully", it isn't guaranteed.
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My cars aren't concourse quality and they are stored in a garage, so they don't get very dirty. When they get too dusty I wipe them down with a damp rag and dry them with a bath towel.
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I'm not sure that shellac will hold up to modern gasolines with alcohol added. I use Pactra clear "Hot Fuel Proof" Dope made for model airplanes. It's designed to stand up to the methanol and nitromethane model airplane fuels.
Restoration Supply sells a modern material that you can carve to match the shape of your old float. It is a closed cell plastic, so it doesn't need to be sealed.
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Arty got his Flanders runnning, hopefully he will post a Youtube video at some point and put a link to it in this thread.
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Rare, low production Model Ts and As will always command a premium, however the prices for the more plentiful models does seem to have softened.
I bought my 1924 Model T Ford in 2013 for $8000.00. The mechanical and paint work had already been done, it just needed upholstery and a top, which I installed. I also installed a spare tire mount, AC accessory brakes, and a Ruckstell two speed rear axle.
I was originally looking for a Model A Ford, but good ones in comparable shape to the T I bought were more than I was willing to spend at the time. It seems to me that Model T prices have held or only slid back a bit, but Model A prices have receded to the point where they are only slightly higher than comparable Model Ts.
Regarding practicality, I live in a semi-developed rural area. There are still many streets that I can comfortably cruise at 30 mph in the T. If I choose to drive on the larger side roads with speed limits of 50-60 mph, I keep an eye on the rear view mirror and pull over for faster traffic as needed. I would never take the T on an interstate, it can't comfortably meet the 45 mph minimum speed requirement. I don't currently own a Model A, but I'm assuming I would be able to drive any of the side roads without having to pull over for faster traffic. I still wouldn't take it on an interstate (unless perhaps it had an overdrive).
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Contact Layden Butler, he was advertising a Splitdorf 2 cylinder coil box in the HCCA classifieds a while back. Scroll down this page to find his ad.
https://hcca.org/Classifieds/classifieds.php?parts
Ask him to send you pictures and compare them to the ones in the Maxwell book to make sure it is correct. Good luck!
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Can you share who did your magneto work? My 1912 Flanders has a Splitdorf Model F low tension magneto that kind of works, but I would like to have it fully refurbished at some point.
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I ran DOT5 in my 1971 Plymouth GTX for the 20 years I owned it. Firm pedal and never had an issue.
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These documents and more for most makes are available for download on the HCFI Library website. You have to set up an account with them to get access. https://www.hcfi.org/
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I will email you a couple of .pdf files that I have. I would post them here, but the forum doesn't allow .pdf files as attachments.
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I think you can order the two book set directly from David: https://forums.aaca.org/profile/102404-davidmc/
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I think you have a Bosch high tension mag on there, so it doesn't need the coil box. There should be a ground wire that goes through a switch to ground so that you can shut the car off by grounding the mag. Without being grounded, the mag will generate high voltage whenever it is turning, even by hand, so be careful or you'll get a shock!
Your car likely came from the factory with a Splitdorf low tension magneto, it would have needed the coil box to step up the voltage to fire the plugs. The two large terminals on the top of the coil box are likely for hookup of a battery. You would start the car on battery, then switch to magneto once the car was running. I have attached a wiring diagram of the Splitdorf low tension magneto setup.
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This brings back memories! When I lived in Jupiter, Florida, I went and visited Addco in Lake Park to pick up a pair of bars for my 1970 Dodge Charger. It was fun pulling parts out of bins and boxes to get all the parts required. Let's see, you need two of these, four of these, .....
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The battery fits under the seat on my Runabout, but I wanted a tool box anyway, so I put a wanted ad on the MTFCA classifieds and someone there offered this one. I had to shorten the box by two inches because it was too tall to allow the car's door to pass over it. I didn't want to drill more holes in my running board, so I bought a junky running board luggage rack, cut off the clamp-on mounting brackets, and bolted them to the bottom of the box.
The Flanders illustrated parts manual shows that some cars came with a metal box on the running board for the batteries. It looks nearly identical to the one I found for my car (minus the clamps).
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By the way, you may notice the fan belt on my car. The Illustrated parts manual shows a linked leather belt. Don't bother trying to find a continuous belt that will fit over the fan and still be short enough to be set to the proper tension, you must be able to separate the belt and re-link it after it is fitted over the pulleys. I found the 3/4 inch wide leather strapping and belt links on Ebay.
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Here is a wiring diagram and an explanation of the system from a period book. The firing order is the same as a Model T Ford, 1-2-4-3. The low tension Splitdorf magneto (mine is a Model F) sends a low voltage AC signal to the coil box, which steps up the voltage and sends it back out to the distributor part of the magneto for distribution to the spark plugs.
The original battery would have been a wooden box under the seat (or maybe in a metal box on the running board) with four 1.5 volt dry cells wired in series to give 6 volts. Note that neither battery terminal is grounded to the chassis, this is important! Both battery leads go to the coil box. Do not ground the battery to the chassis! The person that rebuilt my coil box with a modern coil and condenser (R.V. Anderson, RIP) told me to use a 12V lead-acid lawn tractor battery in place of the dry cells. My 1912 runs fine on battery or magneto.
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I tried to attach an electronic .pdf copy of the 1909 illustrated parts manual here, but the file size is too large (13.7 MB). Email me at strangedude@att.net an I will attempt to attach it to my reply. Hopefully your email server will allow that large a file to go through.
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Great Flanders pics, thanks for posting them!
The original Maxwell battery box was under the seat. The coil box would be mounted on the dash.
Interesting that a prior owner was able to get the Maxwell running using a Model T Ford period accessory "Master Vibrator". It was originally designed to be mounted on the dash near to the existing Model T Ford coil box to so that all four coils used the same set of points, making their firing times more consistent.
http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/822076/830007.html?1516755906
http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/179374/250469.html?1322760281
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FYI, there is a Maxwell section in these forums, there might be some good stuff in there: https://forums.aaca.org/forum/25-maxwell/
I don't personally own a Maxwell (yet), you might be better served by going through the Maxwell section of the forum and contacting some of the Maxwell owners there directly. I currently own a 1924 Model T Ford and a 1912 Flanders 20.
You need to post pictures of your battery/coil setup so that folks can determine if it is adapted from a Model T or not. If the car runs well with it, drive it and enjoy it as-is until you accumulate the definitive information on what is correct for your car. Otherwise, you may spend money on parts that you later find you can't use.
Starting in 1909, some Maxwell models did use a magneto, but it was a Splitdorf low tension magneto mounted on the top of the crankcase that sent a low voltage AC signal to a non-trembler coil box on the dash that stepped up the voltage to fire the plugs. It was a "wasted spark" system that fired both plugs every crank rotation.
1909 Maxwell Runabout or earlier emergency brake pedal wanted
in Parts Wanted
Posted
Excellent, congratulations!