cudaman
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Posts posted by cudaman
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I have had good luck sealing cork floats with Pactra "hot fuel proof" model airplane dope. Model airplane fuel is mainly methanol with varying amounts of nitromethane blended in.
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When you finally get the production pieces, please have the supplier leave as much extra around the perimeter as possible so that we can trim them ourselves, thanks!
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On any aftermarket wheel, be sure to ask if the wheel has the correct center register diameter and location for your application. OEM Mopar wheels were designed to register onto the hub, not the wheel studs.
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Look on Youtube for Steve Magnante's site, he has done several video tours of this junkyard.
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This is the only Hupmobile diagram I have, hopefully it will help. The book it came from is dated 1922, so your 1924 may be slightly different.
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I have no connection to the ad or the seller, just providing the link as a courtesy in case a Maxwell or other two cylinder car owner needs one:
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Do a Google search for ISBN 978-0-646-83442-9. Hopefully several copies will show up for sale.
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Wonderful!
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What is the minimum order and how much are you short? What would be the cost to close the gap?
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Daryl Kemerer sent me these period illustrations of the side curtains on a 1911/1912 Flanders 20 runabout. I plan to use them to make curtains for my 1912 some day.
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What year and brand of car are you working on? If it's a Model T Ford, the correct original hub bolts have a smaller head than a standard carriage bolt. The correct bolts are available from the vendors, here is a link to one of them, Lang's - https://www.modeltford.com/item/2825BQ.aspx
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Here you go.
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In the Mopar world, those are called "Magnum wheels".
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Strong's garage is in Canada, here is a link to their Youtube channel, it has their address and contact information. https://www.youtube.com/@strongsgarage
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Wow, looks great!
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Someone just posted a selection of period Saxon literature for sale, search the forum for "saxon" and it will show up.
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Inflated just enough to hold their shape, then out of the light.
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Wow, that ring gear looks really good!
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Go to the original manufacturer, they are still in business. http://www.paperpulleys.com/pages/home.html
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Here are a couple more multi-electrode plugs, both with 1/2" pipe thread. Edison #13 and Bethlehem "five point" plugs.
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Looking great!
When I removed the rear wheels from my 1912 Flanders to service the brakes, I found that both rear axle nuts only had about 20 ft-lbs of torque on them. One side also had an oversize key installed to take up wear. When I put everything back together, I torqued each axle nut to 75 ft-lbs, plus whatever it took to get the castle nut slot to line up with the cotter pin hole.
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Bare felloes occasionally show up on Ebay, but most times you end up having to buy whole wheels to get the felloes. As others have mentioned, there were several suppliers, and rims from one supplier may or may not fit felloes from another supplier. Do a google search on "demountable wheels mtfca" and loads of threads will come up.
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Great work! For times when the wheel slides on too far because of wear on the axle or hub taper, the Model T Ford vendors sell various thickness conical shims that can take up the gap and allow the hub to fit correctly.
https://www.modeltford.com/item/2505SH.aspx
https://www.modeltford.com/item/2505SHB.aspx
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Do you drive your vintage car to the store?
in General Discussion
Posted · Edited by cudaman (see edit history)
I run errands in my 1924 Model T Ford quite often. It does great as long as you're not in a hurry.