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cudaman

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Posts posted by cudaman

  1. There are two active EMF/Flanders groups on Facebook.  One uses "EMF" in the name, the other uses "E-M-F".  I don't know why there are two, they are attended by the same folks, but for some reason they haven't been combined.

     

    I have copies of the 1910 Flanders 20 Technical Description and Manual of Operation, PM me with your email address and I will email them to you, or you can download copies of them from the HCFI Library (HCFI.org).  You will need to create an account on the HCFI site to download files.

     

    The 1910 models have the separate oil reserve tank, like in your picture.  In 1911 and 1912, the reserve tank was part of the crankcase casting, but the operation of the oiling system was the same.

     

    The crankcase holds around two quarts of oil and the reserve tank holds an additional two quarts.  There are two pipes that feed oil from the bottom of the reserve tank to a position part way up the crankcase.  Once the crankcase level reaches two quarts, the oil in the crankcase covers the bottoms of the feed pipes and oil stops flowing from the reserve tank.  For this system to work, the tank must be able to hold a vacuum - the Page8.jpg.81f6ed2869933aaf9fa384afa64c9196.jpggaskets on the tank fill cap and sight glass have to be air-tight, that is probably where the reference to vacuum comes from.  If the reserve tank isn't sealed air tight, all of the oil in the reserve tank will flow into the sump, overfilling it.

     

     

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  2. If you find a replacement diaphragm and decide to install it in your pump, be sure to hold the pump arm in the down position when you tighten the pump case screws.  Otherwise, the diaphragm material might get stretched every time the pump arm goes down and the diaphragm material will quickly develop splits and will leak.  I learned this the hard way on the Carter high volume pump that I installed on my 1971 Plymouth GTX.

    • Like 1
  3. Thanks for sharing that!  I used to have a 1971 Plymouth Barracuda convertible that would run well for ten miles or so, then die.  Of course, I would open the hood to look things over.  After a few minutes and not finding anything, the car would start right up and I would drive it home.  Turns out the pickup coil in the updated electronic distributor would get hot and go open circuit, then fix itself when it cooled back down.  Took me a while to find that one!  :)

     

  4. First, remove the vacuum advance hose end from the distributor vacuum canister and plug it (a golf tee works well as a plug).  Then install a dial-back timing light and confirm that the initial advance is where you want it at Idle.

     

    Then, have a helper accelerate the engine until the mechanical timing advance maxes out while you watch.  Adjust the dial-back on the timing light to determine the maximum mechanical advance.  Check your manual for the correct specs for initial and total mechanical timing and adjust the distributor position as needed.

     

    Once you have confirmed the correct mechanical advance and total timing with no vacuum, try driving the car (still with the vacuum advance disconnected).  If the part throttle pinging under load is gone, buy and install an adjustable vacuum canister for your distributor and adjust it to provide the maximum vacuum advance you can get away with without pinging.

     

    You want to run vacuum advance on the street if you can.  Otherwise, your fuel economy will suffer and the car will be sluggish at throttle tip-in from Idle.

  5. Can you take a couple of pieces from an area that is normally hidden (say, by the seat bottom cushion) and move them over, then patch the hidden spots with newer material?

     

    "distressed" black vinyl is available, do a Google search for it.  It would stand out in an area that can be seen, but it might make a better patch in the hidden areas than brand new material.  :)

  6. Concerned that Roots blowers for supercharged Hemi engines took too much horsepower to drive, Art Malone built an experimental dragster with a huge air tank that took the place of the normal supercharger for his Hemi engine.  The car is now at the Don Garlits Museum of Drag Racing.  From the Draglist.com forum:

     

    "It wasn't large Father, it was Art Malone.  The car is in Big's museum.........really Kooky car........had a HUGE compressed air tank that ran the length of the car from the drivers foot box to the front axle the car looks like conventional front engined car from the cowl forward........but then the motor is mount side winder style behind the driver and the crank is used as the axle with the wheels mounted to it............it had a hilborn looking injection intake with two huge tubes running around the cage and hooked to the tank valves.........feat of engineering indeed.........I think it ran only once or twice.the car launched hard then the crank broke.........and after they got that figured out they found that the compressed air was not enough to make it run well.........and it was shleved.  somehow Big got the car and restored it.........ERIK"

     

    http://www.astradyne.co.uk/tet/showpic.php?dir=05florida&name=florida065.jpg

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