cudaman
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Posts posted by cudaman
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Here's a photo of my Hershey haul. Nothing particularly valuable or rare. There was a gentleman in the Red field with a very nice and complete Splitdorf dual ignition coil box, but he wanted $750.00 for it, too rich for my blood.
Update - the exact same box showed up on Ebay a few months later for $600.00, so I went ahead and bought it. There was no key, but I already had an extra key for it.
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If you have a hub that you can bring with you to try various pullers on it will help. I bought a 16 tpi puller for my 1912 Flanders last year at Karl's that met my measurements, but when I got it home it was just a little too loose on the hub threads, so I don't trust it. I just measured it and it is 2 5/8 ID, so it is too big to meet your needs.
I ended up sending one of my hubcaps to AACA forum member "Dandy Dave" and he machined up a custom puller for me that fits tight and works great. If you can't find a puller at Hershey, you might want to contact him about making one for you. Don't haggle, just pay him what he asks and you'll be happy with the results.
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Last year I found an essentially NOS carburetor for my 1912 Flanders 20 Runabout. It runs great now once I spaced up the float "tickler" so that it wasn't holding the float down all the time, flooding the engine. Many thanks to Daryl Kemerer for suggesting the tickler as the cause.
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Here is a link to his profile. Click on the "message" button to send him a message.
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Check with Tim Morsher (dropacent), he makes some nifty holders. There are lots of Model T Ford cans around, but they are all marked with the Ford script. If you want an unmarked one, keep looking on Ebay.
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Glad to hear that you found a solution to your axle and bearings problems! Hope you also find a solution to your ring & pinion needs.
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I have some Studebaker wiring diagrams for 1922, what model Studebaker do you have?
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I earlier stated that I had visually compared the Hyatt bearings from my 1912 Flanders 20 three-speed runabout and my Model T Ford and they appeared identical. Because my Flanders bearings were in good shape, I re-installed them and did not attempt to install Model T Ford bearings in their place.
I have since been able to obtain a copy of the Hyatt Roller bearing catalog covering the period from 1897 - 1916. In it, the Hyatt part number for the Flanders 20 is listed as 19160 in all locations, whereas the Ford bearings are listed as part number 16080 for the RH side of the car and 16079 for the LH side.
I wonder why Ford specified different part numbers for the two sides, perhaps the rollers are wound in different directions? After thinking about it more, I realized that the rollers are the same side-to-side, it's the outer sleeves that are a mirror image of each other side-to-side.
In any case, the part numbers for Flanders and Ford bearings are not the same, so there must be some difference between them that isn't obvious from a visual inspection.
Update - I found the difference between Flanders and Ford bearing dimensions by looking at the detailed dimensions in the back of the catalog.
They both are 4 inches long and both use 1/2 inch rollers, but the Flanders bearing is designed to fit on a 1-1/8 inch axle shaft, whereas the Ford bearing is designed to fit on a 1-1/16 inch axle shaft. So, a Ford bearing in a Flanders axle would be a tighter fit than intended. Too small a difference for my feeble eyes to see!
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Glad to hear you made it home safely! Once you find the cause of the looseness, check the fan over carefully for cracks before you re-install it.
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Some AC plugs for Chrysler are shown in this chart:
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Each spoke has a tenon that fits into a hole in the felloe. The shim is inserted between the end of the full-diameter body of the spoke and the ID surface of the felloe. The spoke tenon remains in the hole in the felloe.
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I had never seen the felloe dimpler until now, but spoke jacks occasionally show up on Ebay. Or, you can make one with some shaped hardwood, a couple of nuts & washers, and some beefy all-thread.
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Some will scoff, but on my Model T Ford I have had good luck using a spoke jack to push the metal felloe away from the end of the loose spoke and inserting a 1/32" thick stainless steel shim to fill the gap. You can make the shims from stainless steel washers with an ID slightly larger than the tenon in the spoke (because the tenon usually has a fillet at its base) and an OD that matches the OD of the spoke. You may need a different size shim than the package shown.
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The heat wave finally broke (for now, at least), so my friend came over and we drove the Flanders again this morning. For this test, I leaned the carburetor out some and slightly advanced the base timing, the car seemed to like the changes.
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Andy, do you have a user manual and an illustrated parts manual for your car? If not, email me at strangedude@att.net and I will send you electronic copies of the documents that I have, they are .pdf files.
Andy, the .pdf file is 33 MB, too large for an email attachment. I will try to figure out a way to split it up into smaller chunks so that I can send it in pieces.
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When you have the Hyatt bearings out, take a good look at the hardened bearing sleeves in the axle housing. The sleeves wear most at the top, where the weight of the car presses down onto the bearings. If the sleeves are shot, that may be another reason to go with modern bearings.
I don't know about the EMF 30, but the sleeves in my Flanders 20 do not have a hole for the Model T Ford sleeve removal tool to fit. That would have made removing the sleeves a bear, but luckily mine were in good shape (my car spent most of its life sitting in museums).
Below are links to the Model T sleeves and the removal tool for reference. You slide the tool inside the sleeve and turn it until the pin pops into the sleeve hole. Then, you can turn the tool in the direction to make the sleeve slightly smaller in diameter so that it will slide out of the axle housing. You do not have to remove the axle shaft to remove the sleeve with this tool.
https://www.modeltford.com/item/2509BQL.aspx
https://www.modeltford.com/item/2509QL.aspx
https://www.modeltford.com/item/2509SP.aspx
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Some minimal play is normal, the bearings should slip into place without having to be driven in. An old Model T trick if you have the axle completely apart is to measure the diameter of each of the spiral wound rollers on each bearing and put the bearings with the largest rollers (least wear) on the outer position. On a Model T, the inner bearings seem to get much less wear than the outer ones.
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I couldn't easily measure the axle bearing surface on my Flanders at the time because I didn't take the axles out of the housing, I was mainly working on the brakes. But I did pull out and inspect the Hyatt bearings while I had access. They looked great, so I cleaned and re-greased them and put them back in. Before I re-installed them, I did set them side-by-side with a set of spare Model T bearings I had and they looked dimensionally identical.
I just measured one of the new Model T Ford rear axle shafts that I have in my basement and the Hyatt bearing running surface is 1-1/16 inch diameter. I have attached a drawing of the Model T rear axle shaft for reference.
If your EMF 30 axle shafts measure out at 1.25 inches in that area, then they are larger than Model T Ford and Flanders 20 shafts, sorry.
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The OEM Hyatt bearings in my 1912 Flanders three speed rear axle are dimensionally identical to Model T Ford axle Hyatt bearings, I checked them when I had them out to work on the brakes. I don't know about the bearings in the 1910 Flanders two speed rear axle.
I suspect, but can't be certain that the EMF 30 rear axle bearings are the same size as my 1912 Flanders, and therefore the same as Model T Ford. Perhaps Daryl Kemerer or John Daly will see this thread and comment.
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All Model T Fords left the factory as 6 volt, negative ground. There's no controlling what various owners did to their cars afterwards.
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Perhaps contact Chaffin's Garage and ask them who makes the Model T Ford axles for them, maybe the supplier would be interested in making a run of EMF axles if someone could supply a drawing and/or dimensions.
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If someone here doesn't have what you need, check with the HCFI Library website, they have an extensive collection in downloadable .pdf format.
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The ring with the script "S" in it appears to be a Studebaker emblem.
My dad was a child of the depression, he saved everything, he even saved used, bent nails in baby food jars.
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Excellent, congratulations!
Tools, 1914 Metz
in General Discussion
Posted
Go to the HCFI Library website and see if you can download an illustrated parts manual for your car. It will likely have tools section.