keithb7
-
Posts
1,302 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
3
Content Type
Forums
Gallery
Events
Posts posted by keithb7
-
-
Image of torque cooler. My money is on this option in Terry's 53 NY'r
-
Reviewing my 1953 shop manual this is what they say. This particular book I am referencing is for Canadian issued cars. Maybe this info only applies to Canadian cars?
1953 NY-er is a C56 (Terry’s car)
1953 Windsor (my car) is a C60
1953 Custom Imperial is a C58
1953 Crown Imperial C59
Standard fluid drive was available in C56, C58 and C60. There was no stator for torque multiplication in these. No external cooling. Terry’s car could have this basic option. 3.54:1
A reservoir type torque converter is also listed. A torque converter with multiplication stators. Oil was confined to torque only. Oil was sent to front of engine via steel send and return lines, to be cooled. Oil cooler is mounted on front of engine near water pump. Models with this reservoir torque converter are not listed in my manual. I suspect this may be what Terry’s car has. Terry check front of your engine for the cooler. 3.36:1. This torque converter for the V8 NY-er brought with it larger diameter clutch plates and higher clutch spring pressures. Total spring load of 2190 lbs for standard fluid drive versus 3,000 pounds for fluid torque drive. Seems to me the fluid torque drive is a heavy duty better fluid coupler for the V8.
Next we have engine-fed torque converter. Torque has the stators. Torque Oil is shared with engine oil. Oil runs from engine oil pump, through rear of block to torque, then back to engine oil sump pan. Deeper oil pan is used. Some Plymouth, Dodge, and Desoto cars have this option. The only Chrysler shown in my book to have this option in '53 was my C60 Windsor Deluxe. Both torque and engine oil are drained when servicing the engine oil. Torque oil is cooled along with the engine oil. 3.73:1 My Windsor Deluxe could have had to standard fluid drive at 3.9:1, without stators, and I assume no shared engine oil either. So as mentioned above, yes I am lucky to have the optional upgraded Fluid Torque Drive in my Windsor Deluxe.
-
You can use 12V if done so carefully.
Turn off all electrics in car. Lights radio, heater, etc. everything. I like to remove postive cable from 6V battery in car to protect battery.
From 12V battery run booster cable from positive post to a good clean strong ground on the car. Hood hinge works well. Have helper in the car ready to turn ignition key. Connect negative end of 12V battery to starter relay switch. Have friend turn ignition and start car. Remove 12V cables and reinstall 6V positive ground wire now while engine is running.
-
1
-
-
@jyinger what are the performance differences between the fluid coupler and the true torque converter? More torque over wider RPM range with converter?
-
These Chrysler Master Tech books are awesome. Read all you can that apply to your project. They tech you the" how and they why" of car systems and parts. A great resource before tackling a job on your car. Many Chrysler Master Tech videos are on You Tube to watch as well. All are excellent and highly recommended.
http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Lit/Master/index.htm
For example this applies directly to your car: https://youtu.be/7UDjav91CdM
-
My interpretation of the Chrysler Fluid Torque Drive:
I love it. It unique, reliable and works quite well. It can hold the heavy car back very well on steep hills saving drum brakes from heating up.
-
I attended BJ last year. It was fun. I spent little time at the actual auction area. I loved walking through all the cars. If I recall there were about 1800 that I viewed. Speed lap was fun too. We had a lot of fun.
A year later, I’m really into about 1928 to 1955 cars. Not enough of those at the BJ auction to keep me interested and watching it on TV.
-
1
-
-
Here's mine. Looks pretty close hey?
-
Terry, nice car. Yes our interior looks identical based on what I can see in your photos.
I located my car pretty much in the condition as seen in the photo above. I cleaned it up. Waxed it. Detailed it and it looked like you see.
I had to spend a fair bit of time doing mechanical repairs. My car ran but not great. It was running on. 5 cylinders, and those 5 were low on compression. The engine needed a full valve job. Which I completed myself in June last year. There were many other repairs to do as well but I won’t get into that now. This thread is about your car.
You need to sign up here
http://p15-d24.com/forum/4-p15-d24-forum/
and offer an introduction. This AACA site here and the P15-D24 groups are the best sources of info I have been able to find on these old Chryslers. Tons of great helpful people.
You can get tons of parts here http://m.oldmoparts.com/
Also Rock Auto web site has a fair bit of goodies for my car. Surprisingly.
As far as getting whatever sheen you can from whats left of your paint, I recommend you post a direct question on this in the AACA General Discussion group here.
When do you have the car in your posession? At home to start working on?
Before I go too far in to details, what is your practical mechanical experience level? Do you have a half decent collection of tools? How’s your mechanical theory? Tell us more then we can make some proper recommendations.
Keith
-
First investment one of these. The factory manuals are excellent.
https://www.amazon.com/Factory-Shop-Service-Chrysler-Imperial/dp/B00J61S6KK
No-brakes could be several things. Leaking wheel cylinders. Leaking master cylinder. Seized brake pistons, etc. You may have front disc brakes. They were available by ‘53.
-
I have a 1953 Chrysler Windsor. Very close to the same car as yours I believe. However I have the straight 6 flathead engine. You have a V8 correct?
What are you goals? To make it a safe driver for Sunday cruises and or attend a few local car shows? Or are you wanting a top level restoration?
Here is mine, as you can see they look very similar. I think I have a fair bit knowledge gathered that I can share. Do you have any more photos you can share?
Rear end shot? Engine compartment shot? Dash interior shot? Thanks, Keith.
-
Armstrong BC? Nice. Welcome. I'm over in Kamloops.
Your car is a beauty. Please consider coming over to Kamloops for our Hot Nite In The City event this summer. I hope to see your car at an interior event this coming season.
-
Note the bulge seen here along the side of this toggle. This bulge needs to be indexed toward the backing plate or toggles will not set in place correctly. You'll get shoe interference.
-
I thought I would share some of my recent learnings, dealing with these Steeldraulic brakes. These are mechanical brakes. I read a number of essays on function, installation and set up of these brakes. It seemed no two essays were the same. Reading them all helped put the all the clues together. I think part of my struggle was not fully grasping what I was reading initially. I thought I would record the info here so others seeking out info in the future might find and learn from this. Thanks @Tinindian for passing along the info you shared. It was helpful.
First pic here is a rear set. The movable part of the shoe points toward the ground on the rear set. The adjuster mechanism seen at about 5 o'clock. The toggle placement is important. One toggle has a solid centre, or inner. That one points toward the adjuster mechanism on all 4 brakes. The toggle with the hollow centre, fitting over the solid centre toggle, at the centre pin, points toward the rigid part of the shoe.
The centre mount pins for the outer ends of the toggles are off-set. See pic below here. See how the pin with a cotter pin through it, is closer to right end of the pin in the photo? This is a mounting pin for a toggle. It needs to be located closer to the backing plate side of the shoe. If this pin is closer to the outer end of pin, the brakes will not mount properly. Due to this off-set mounting pin, you cannot mix up left and right shoes. You can switch up front and back on the same side, but not left to right.
Here you can see an approximate red colour centre line that I drew in. This pic shows the pin hole off-set clearly. This hole is to be closer to backing plate when shoe is mounted properly.
Next pic is adjusting cam. The cam has tabs on it that fit around the sides of the hex head bolt. Ensure these tabs are squared up tight against the bolt head. Later when the drum is installed you will need to set these cams, by turning bolt to push the rigid side of the shoe, closer to the drum. 0.020" clearance is the spec.
Here are a few more pics for reference. I learned these key bits of information the hard way. On and off a few times with the shoes. Scratching my head. Hours and hours later, it feels pretty good to get this figured out.
My partner and I have taught ourselves to be mechanical brake experts. A fine skill that we may never, ever have use for again. LOL. Good luck with yours. - Keith
-
Flat head Chrysler. Last June 2017. New to me. Pulled plugs to inspect, clean and gap. Recent previous owner had lost a small bolt. It happened to land down in the dished out area of the cylinder head around 1 spark plug. Unable to find it, he gave up. Me 2 months later, pulled the plugs. The screw behind the plug was not seen. It fell into the cylinder unbeknownst to me. It sure did not want to run after I reinstalled all the cleaned gapped plugs. I was throwing all kinds of parts at it trying to figure out what the heck was going on. Finally a compression test led me to pull the cylinder head. I found a bent valve and both pieces of the broken bolt. Followed by a full valve grind. Car is much better off for it today. Running great!
-
Hi, I have a 1953 Chrysler L265. I am in need of a engine oil dipstick. If anyone has anything, let me know. Thanks, Keith
-
Wow @Tinindian. Thanks for the service info on those brakes!
-
Thanks folks. @Kenendcindyc, what manual are you quoting this info from? I am interested in obtaining a service manual for the 1928 Std. 6
I am unsure what to buy. Thanks.
-
Could anyone tell me the intake and exhaust valve clearance specs for this 1928 flat 6?
.009 and .011? Is that close? Thx.
-
Well there it is. The can has been opened. See all the worms. Wow.
-
At the least, flip the engine on stand. Pull oil pan. Pretty sure cork areas at front and rear are hard and no longer sealing. Clean up all and consider fromt and rear seals as well. Rear most main bearing cap I believe houses the lower rear seal.
With the engine this accessable I’d certainly be doing it.
-
1
-
-
Thank you. Yes I’m interested.
A photo or two would be great.
Thx. Keith
-
Hi I am in need of a pair of headlights for a Dodge Brothers 1928 Standard Six. Does not have to be exact match replacement. Will consider other period correct lights.
A cab heater core would also be great. Thx.
Shipped to 98295 USA. Thx.
Keith
-
Thanks folks. I like the 140 ft lb number. Sounds about right based on the size of that nut.
Any guesses on the brake drum nuts? I'm thinking 50 ft lbs maybe?
First Project 1953 Chrysler New Yorker
in Chrysler Products - General
Posted · Edited by keithb7 (see edit history)
Found more info in a second service manual. The reservoir type torque converter was used on the C56 NY’r and the C58 Imperial only, in 1953. The reservoir type TC can be identified by the oil cooler on the engine by water pump, and an oil sump with drain located on the bottom of the clutch housing.
I can't seem to find any info in my manuals indicating that the 1953 C56 NY’r shared torque oil with engine. Just the 6 cylinder C60 in the Chrysler line.
PS: Post has been edited to update. I have located information that shows that the engine fed Torque Converter was also used on the V8. Pics are shown in this Chrysler Master Tech lesson here:
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/mtsc/057.pdf