Jump to content

keithb7

Members
  • Posts

    1,295
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    3

Posts posted by keithb7

  1. HI folks, for sale is a brand new, complete fuel pump kit. I ordered it in error from Then & Now Automotive. 

    New price is $5-9.50 US Funds plus shipping.  How about  $45 US Funds including pre-paid shipping within Canada or the USA? Paypal preferred.  I am in Canada

    Thx. Keith

     

    Screenshot2024-03-04at5_17_03PM.png.ed257c8a1f8aea6f9b273daf7ed57d62.png

     

    It fits the following Mopar models:

    Chrysler:1936 6 cyl, 1937  C16, 1938 C18, w/ overdrive

    Desoto 1937-38 S3,S5 Overdrive, 1939 S6,RHD

    Dodge: 1937-1938 D5,D8 Overdrive, 1939 D11 RHD, Swinging windshield

    Plymouth: 1937-1938 P3,P4,P5,P6 1939 P7,P8,  1940 P9,P10,P15

     

     

     

     

     

     

  2. I don’t use my 240 buzz box welder enough.
     

     I’m working on a 1970 Chevelle. Been in a barn for 15-20 years. Snapped off a bolt while taking off the thermostat housing. I know I can weld a nut to it. Then turn it out. Yet, safely with confidence? Hmm. 
     

    Think it thru. Take all safety measures into consideration. Stick weld. Let’s try negative anode. 70 amps. See how it goes. I don’t want to blow anything apart.  Nope, no  good. 
     

    i’ll try positive anode.  Turn it up to 85 amps. Just beautiful. Nice flow. I could hear it. Much better.  Success! Broken bolt came out like butter. Sometimes its the small things. I love good heat on seized rusty bolt. I need to start a welding log so I can reference it next time. 
     

    7DE7FBBA-792F-429E-A1B6-217F944CDD0C.jpeg.0eb5086f7e00eeb280e3fb135b66d782.jpeg

    • Like 6
    • Haha 1
  3. I think I do alright. Re-saeled more than a few valves. Rebulit a couple valve train systems. Rebuilt a flathead engine.  I really feel that a person attempts to seal valves, new or otherwise, you must confirm they are sealed. Each and every one of them. I like to test by ensuring each seat will not allow liquid to pass. Kerosene, solvent, diesel, whatever.  A cylinder leak-down test at TDC works too.  Never assume valves are sealing just because you had the seats cut and new valves installed. Do not cut corners to re-use guides or springs. You’re that far in. New springs and guides are cheap. 

    • Like 1
  4. How did the axle shaft come out? I suspect you had the brake backing plate mounting bolts removed?  I’d put the axle shaft back in. Re-install backing plate and bolts and pull that hub off the axle. Sure will be easier and do-able with the axle mounted back in place. 
     

    Maybe my next video will help you?

     

     

    • Like 1
  5. Sounds like most of this has been sorted. I wanted to chip in and talk about shoe adjustment. If the shoes are set nice and close to the drum, they can impede drum removal.  To remove any doubt, you can back off the minor brake shoe adjustment cam bolt. Half way up each side of the rear backing plate. I think they take a 3/4” wrench? Turning the bolts so the wrench is moving up towards the car’s engine hood, (both bolts) loosens shoe to drum clearance. Turning the bolts so the wrench is travelling down towards the ground (both bolts) tightens-up shoe to drum clearance. 
     

    By backing off the brake shoes, you then know the shoes are not contributing to impeding drum removal. 
     

    I agree, the hub is supposed to live on the drum. Here are couple of pics of a spare drum I have here. 
    -Keith

    4453FC7F-1236-494A-BA1C-EC2F5DECD531.jpeg.b87236d9664fa412b84354ffc5d7253f.jpeg
     

    0D6621C6-F853-4E13-848F-CF4BA2DFD8AB.jpeg.bee3ea7d341893ee75879534df52c03d.jpeg

    • Like 1
  6. A master cylinder kit is not expensive. Just measure the bore of your cylinder to ensure you get the correct kit. Just because you see another Mopar master cylinder that looks just like yours, it could have a different bore. I learned this the hard way. 
     

    The original Mopar manuals that I have seem to miss the position of 1 rubber washer. It is seen in this image from my Motors Manual. Far left here, valve seat. 
     

    E6957CDB-66E3-46E4-ACCE-C8B2B59374A5.jpeg.b52bcf8b73011d05a0958b7d4192aa55.jpeg
     

    Thank you to folks who are recommending my You Tube Channel. Its purpose is to help others with their old Mopars.    https://youtube.com/@keithsgarage5831?si=0NPxciG-BsXeoUkF

     

    I have salvaged questionable looking master and wheel cylinders. A little elbow grease and emery cloth can usually get them sealed and working again. - Keith

     

    913629A2-DF60-445D-98B0-F1FA0E1D25EF.jpeg.1f7081ba06e37d3be15cb322142331c1.jpeg

    • Like 1
  7. I own a ‘38 Chrysler Royal 6 cylinder. It does not have a floor button starter. It has dash button that I push to activate the starter solenoid.  Is your ‘39 Chrysler a 6 or 8 cylinder? 
     

    If an 8 cyl seek out a starter marked MAX4037.  If a 6 cylinder seek out starter MAX4020A.  If you search these on ebay you’ll see options. Personally I’d probably find a used starter core , marked as I indicated above. Then take it to a local starter rebuild shop and get it rebuilt there in your area. 

    • Like 1
    • Haha 1
  8. Ay 52 I don’t qualify as part of the up-coming young generation, however I would be tickled to acquire a model T. What’s the attraction? Why? 
     

    The car’s iconic past. The car that was such a massive success. Half the cars in the word were Model T at one point. The affordable, fixable car that changed the lives of so many. It brought secluded farmer’s wives and families to town easily and quickly. The massive behemoth car company Ford. The quirky downright stubborn ways of Henry Ford and the resulting car. I’ve read a few fascinating books about Ford and his company, up until he died. 
     

    What’s hold me back from buying one? Brakes and power. Seriously. I live in a mountainous area.  A long hill with 11% grade down and back up every time I leave the house. Drivers often seen speeding at 50 mph on that hill. No white lines and no shoulders. Nowhere to go. Poor rear lights and its slower than any car that modern driver expects to see on the road.

     

    I’m holding out for a Model T when we re-settle some day. Perhaps move into town. Live in the valley. Where there are flat roads pretty much everywhere….Someday. 

    • Like 3
  9. Are you guys referring to some type of built-in ballast resistor? Is this only needed for the 12V cars? Which this 1924 Dodge is. My 1938 6V Mopars do not have this coil resistor that you speak of. 
     

    What is the purpose of the ballast resistor, if needed? To lower the voltage going to the coil? Thx.  (Learning every day here)

     

    Keith

  10. Try testing the actual fuel pressure near the carb fuel inlet line. Before buying a regulator. Holley offers low or high pressure options. This one here can drop it to 1-4 psi.  I have one of these. It works. You can also rebuild it if the rubber diaphragm breaks down due to ethanol. You can also buy various springs to get the pressure reduction you want. 
     

    32E9417F-B0D6-4D38-9BD5-022C1071C03B.jpeg.a16758c418a0bc0bde3438db87d511d4.jpeg

  11. Hmm. Seems odd that you are getting hotter at faster travel speed. You have a ton of air moving through the rad at 60 mph. Plenty of air to cool the water. The rad is a new re-core and clean. Shouldn’t be the rad if it’s newly re-cored. At higher speeds the engine is working harder. Burning more fuel. Making more heat. The original cooling system would have been adequate. At higher speeds the mechanical advance should advance the timing. If the timing is wrong the engine will produce more heat. Is your advance working? You can check it by watching your timing light on the pulley and rev the engine up. What is your static timing? A lean air-fuel mixture will make more heat too. How’s the jetting feel at the higher travel speeds? Any possible air leaks in the carb? Float level accurate?  What’s the age of your water pump? Have you looked at it? 

  12. This image nelow is a good reference for your master cylinder.  The valve and seat at the far left is important.   The air bleed hole in the master cylinder fill port cover must  be able to vent to atmosphere. 
     

    Stiff old brake flex hoses should be replaced. They too can limit back flow from the wheel cylinders. Are all the return springs in place on all four shoes?

     

    56AF40CA-7784-4B3A-B5F8-2B7579E4AED0.jpeg.644ce332cccee35cfc9efb9cbaa167bc.jpeg

  13. I’m a Gen-x’r I guess. 1971. It doesn’t mean much to me.  I like flathead era cars. They mostly were replaced by the mid-50’s. So from the horseless wagon to about ‘53 is my preference. Currently I own two 1938 year flathead Mopars. I’m not really interested in old cars that are extremely popular. I’ll pass right by the Tri 5 Chevy, Mustang, Camaro, Corvettes ect and any car show. Far too many are there. I’m actually not overly interested in winning any trophies with my ‘38 cars. The trophy is the car. I get to maintain and drive it! 

    • Like 7
    • Haha 1
  14. Do you have a factory service manual. The wiring layout is shown quite well in there. If you don’t have a manual, i can scan you some images. 
     

    The electric system is pretty basic. 

    • Like 1
  15. I have a ‘38 Plymouth sedan with a stock 4.11 rear gear set. Tranny in 3rd is 1:1. 55 mph is reasonable. 50 feels better. It currently has a 25” long 237 ci engine in it. Nice torque! 
     

    I also own a ‘38 Chrysler Coupe. I believe it has a 3:93 or so rear gear set if I recall. It has a 251 ci 25” engine in it. It also has cruise control which is super nice. No problem 60-65 mph. 
     

    Mid-teens fuel economy seems about right. I haven’t calculated it in my Chrysler. Last summer my Plym was about 16-17 mpg over a 6 hr trip. 
     

    My Plymouth with a 237 has better power/weight ratio than my Chrysler. It is a little more snappy and the torque feels better. It sure climbs the hills well on the hiway at 55. Its a wonderful car with the 237. I suspect the stock 201 would be fairly anemic. 

×
×
  • Create New...