keithb7
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Posts posted by keithb7
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Great stuff. Thanks for sharing. I look forward to seeing this rebuild move along.
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Thanks folks. Much appreciated.
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Hi, I do not have a shop manual. Could anyone please tell me what new plug gap should be set at? Stock car and engine. Thanks, Keith
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Thank for sharing. That's a real nice car John. I like it a lot. Great work you did there.
I had a vintage Dodge Brothers specialist reply to me today. It seems there are zero options for new brake cables. We will have to get them made. We will wait until we get the rear wheels off and get all 4 cables ready to be built.
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Panelbeater1234, Please do post photos of your 1928 Standard 6. I’d love to see them.
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Hi folks, I posted this in the Bodge Brothers Forum but thought I would try here too. Incase someone has any ideas.
I am in need of 4 quantity brake cables for mechanical brakes on a 1928 Dodge Brothers Standard Six. If anyone has any ideas on a source, please let me know. Pic of cables here.
Thanks, Keith
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Mechanical brakes here:
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Hi folks, I recently came in contact with a 1928 Dodge Brothers Standard 6. I volunteered to spend some time assessing the car and putting together a budget number. At this point, the plan is to make it drivable and safe. The car appears to be mostly stock. The engine turns. Early indications are its mostly all there. I was able to obtain the car SN. It is J37014. It appears to be an early June 1928 build. I believe this is just before Chrysler bought the company. Is this correct?
The 6 cylinder engine SN reads J49-049. I so far I have not been able to locate any info on the engine SN. So if anyone can verify this correct for 1928 , that would be great.
We pulled the front wheels today and found mechanical brakes. There seemed to be no inner wheel bearing dust seal so there is wheel grease all over the front brake shoes. The 4 cables at each wheel are in rough shape. Does anyone know of a source for 4 new brake cables?
They are short, about 18" long each. We are going to need new cables. I am going to try and hot wash the brake shoe assemblies and see what we can do to clean them up. Drums look good. We will make a puller for the rear and get the rear wheels off later this week.
The engine spins free. We measured some decent compression numbers today, even turning with the hand crank. We removed the fuel tank today and cleaned out the fuel lines. The tank will be sent out for a good cleaning. We suspect it will run soon.
Here are some pics. I have heard the head lights are not correct. Can anyone confirm?
Below here are the brake cables we need. These are the front only shown:
Any help is appreciated folks. More pics to come. Thanks, Keith
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My understanding is there are many, many camshaft profiles for these Mopar Flat 6 engines. In that mix are many cam profiles for just industrial engines. The industrial engine were used in so many applications. Depending on where the engine is used it will be set to make a certain torque at a certain RPM. Different cam profiles are custom ground for the engine application.
For example, my 1953 Chrysler Windsor has about 4,000 lb curb weight. A tug for pulling around luggage trailers on an airport runway weights in a lot less. I suspect these would have very different torque curves.
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Wow, there is some incredible art here. The detail is amazing.
My wife has decided to try her hand at sketching. She's new to it. Below here are her first 2 drawings. I encourage her to keep at it. She's learning more during each drawing.
She wants me to ask my local car club if anyone will let us take a few pics of their cars so she has more subject matter. Heather quite enjoys drawing vintage cars.
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Wow, there is some awesome garage space here. I dream of a garage that I can work easily around my car, and also fit a 4 post lift. We keep looking at real estate options, but have yet to find anything that fits out wants.
So for now, I am content with an enclosed garage and some wheel castors. I am limited what I can do in the winter. In the nicer months I will work outside if needed. I get by pretty good.
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If you happen to have some gas with ethanol in your tank, does adding fuel stabilizer keep it fresh? Does it prevent the quick deterioration of the ethanol fuel?
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My 1953 Chrysler Windsor:
Here is what a wise man said, in another forum about my SN plate
For the body tag -
Model - 25 - Windsor DeLuxe 4dr Sedan
Paint - 22 - Everglades Green Metallic
Trim - 16 - Seats are done in green cloth
Sched - 154 - Car scheduled to be built on the 154th of 1953 production
Item - 0258 - Believe the 258th car to be built that day
The rest are numbers for the options on the car - power steering, Fluid Torque Drive, radio, back up lights, etc.
You can order the car's build record from FCA Historical. Not sure of the rates these days. The build record will confirm the engine number for that serial number and the options installed on the car.
It would seem that you and I have the same colour car. Is yours a 2 door? Mine built on the 154th day of 1953. Yours on the 151st day of 1953.
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I have limited experience, however the 265 is a 25" engine. I do own a 1953 Windsor 6, 265.
I also know of a 25" 218 engine that were in smaller Mopar cars. Like found in a Dodge 6, or Special Deluxe. These engines may have been made in Canada only. Shorter stroke I believe.
I was informed that a Windsor with a smaller displacement engine in it, will be pretty slow. The Windsor is big, and heavy, the 265 is a good fit.
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It took me 46 years to truely apprecite old retired car folks.
This year I bought my first vintage car. A 1953 Chrysler. I love the damn thing. I have 30 years of experience fixing and maintaining my own cars. One, because I enjoy it. Two, because I won’t pay someone to do what I can, or want to learn to do.
This year I joined my first local vintage car club. I looked around the room. I’m the youngest person there. 95% are retirees with a love affair for old cars.
These folks are so awesome. No drama. No attitude. They are cool to coach younger keeners like me. They are not pretentious. They don’t stare at themselves in a mirror at the gym for 4 hours a day. Lol.
They weld. They troubleshoot. They fix and restore old cars. They are ex-mechanics and ex-machinists. They have shops and awesome tools. They have gobs of experience. Very importantly they have patience for the right respectful, younger apprentice who wants to prevserve vintage automobiles.
It’s so very true...Old guys rule.
Join a club. Pull everything you can from the club members. Advice and help. Be thankful, grateful and respectful. In due time you’ll have little trouble maintaining an old Datsun 280Z.
Good luck whatever you choose.
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I’ve had a few awesome fall cruises in my ‘53 Chrysler Windsor Deluxe. Kamloops, BC Canada.
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Thank you very much. This is pretty close to me so freight savings are a help too!
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Hi folks. I have a line on a 1929 Dodge. It's been stored in a garage since the 60's. Appears mostly original. Engine last ran in 1999. Engine is not locked up. Once we know it runs, we need to make it safe.
I am new to sourcing parts for this model of car and era. Can anyone make some recommendations for good suppliers for brake parts? Drums, shoes, wheel pistons, maybe piston seal kits?
Suggestions appreciated. Thanks, Keith
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Update. 1,000 miles on the engine now since the valve grind. It's running very good. I am enjoying the last few cruises of the season before I park the Chrysler for the coming winter. I don't see oil burning, unless I am in bull low using engine compression as braking going down a steep hill. I believe this is due to a couple of worn valve guides. Normal use, I am not burning oil as far as I can tell.
It seems my decision to just do a valve grind here was a good call for me. The engine is not picky. It starts and runs great. I pulled the rad, flushed it and the block. I toured in 100 degree weather this summer in a car rally. Plenty of steep hills and low speed. No overheating.
Knowing what I know now, and have learned from this experience, I recommend folks remember to stick with the basics. Spark at right time, compression, and fuel. This is all you really need to troubleshoot an engine. In the end for me, the compression results found my problem. Throwing spark-plugs, cap, condenser, wires, points, etc. at it was just hoping I'd hit the problem. It was not all in waste however as I did end up with a well tuned, reliable car with good compression again. I suspect it will be at least of couple more seasons of cruising as it sits today, before I get into the engine again. Thanks for those to chipped in along the way. Cheers. - Keith
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Hi, I am looking for a used upper windshield visor for my 1953 Windsor Deluxe. 1 piece windshield. Various payment options. Shipped to 98295.
Thanks, Keith
Something similar to this. Any colour is fine.
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Hi, I am looking for:
Rear wheel skirts
Exterior Windshield Sun Visor
Rubber pads for floor of door sills
1953 Chrysler Windsor Deluxe
Please contact me if you have either for sale, or any tips where to find. Thx.
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I bought my 1953 Chrysler 2 months ago. I'm 46. The car is 64 currently.
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I ordered a new big heavy duty puller. I appeciate the tips folks. I will plan to start pulling the drums 3-4 days before I plan to actually work on the rear brakes. Tightening and pulling the drums daily in stages.
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19 hours ago, Rusty_OToole said:
Last guy with this complaint had NO compression in 2 cylinders because the valves were stuck. It had nothing to do with the tuneup. Have you checked your compression?
I recall the good advice went on for a couple of pages before he went by the way I have no compression lol.
That was me. Yes many parts were swapped and my head was scratched before I finally did a compression test. Then everything was revealed. Based on what happened to me, here is where I would start.
The engine needs three things to happen run. Spark, at the right time, compression, and fuel. That's pretty well it it when you break it down. I was chasing spark when my problem was compression.
1. Pull plugs and crank over. Are you seeing sparks at plug tips?
2. Are you sure you are getting fuel? Pull air filter and look down throttle body of carb. Open throttle linkage a few times all the way. You should see raw fuel spray into the throttle body.
3. While plugs are out hook a compression gauge and measure all. Ensure battery is fully charged and throttle is wide open. Crank engine and take a compression reading for each cylinder.
Starting here, you will find where to go next. Good luck. Keith
1928 Std Six Wheel Torque Value
in Dodge & Dodge Brothers
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Hi folks. Could some please let me know proper torque values for
1928 DB Standard Six:
- Main wheel retainer nut on axle shaft.
- Carriage bolts with square shoulder that hold brake drums to wood spoke rims.
Much appreciated. Thanks.