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About Kenendcindyc

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  1. It looks great, but I’m kinda sad to see it allmost finished, it’s been great to watch your progress. Thank you for posting as much as you did, it’s been great.
  2. Thanks for the update, if you don’t mind me asking what are you running for a carb. I can just barely make out a brass carb in the picture but it doesn’t look like the Detroit lubricator Stewart.
  3. Valve clearance is .005” on a hot engine. I recommend running slightly more on the exhaust valves.
  4. Nicely done, you don’t happen to have the number or size of the seals you used handy. I plan on resealing mine this winter and it would be nice to get the seals ahead of time. Thanks
  5. That manifold looks great. Do you know anyone else who has done that and can report how it runs and if there is any disadvantages. I’ve been thinking of doing something similar.
  6. The 208ci Dodge brothers engine compared to later Chrysler designed engines have some similarities. The 208 is 25” long like the “big” Chrysler motors that came after them, (vs the 23” motors). The 25” Chrysler motor also had the same size rod and wrist pin dia as the 208”. Not much is the same after that. The Dodge Brothers motor is a seven main bearing motor where the later Chrysler designed motors were four main. Oiling systems were different also. On the 208” oil goes from the main gallery to the main bearings, rods ,then to camshaft bearings. On the Chrysler motors it goes from the main
  7. Really hard to tell by pictures, if in doubt new ones will be trouble free for a LONG time. Atleast clean them up with a good points file adjust them so they close nice and have sufficient spring tension.
  8. Ahhhh yes you are right about the plug gap. I believe I ran .035 until I made my high compression head ,then I had to drop to .025 due to the small distributor cap , I was getting cross firing because of the increased cyl pressure.
  9. Ok. I’m not sure what’s going on with yours but I’ll give you more food for thought. After I built mine I followed the spec in the book and set valve lash to .005 with the engine around 170 degrees, because the spec is .005 Hot. The engine ran great, as the summer heated up and I went on longer trips the car seemed to loose power and idled very rough after pulling a large hill. If I let it sit and idle it would smooth out and power would return within five minutes. This had me stumped, played with multiple condensers no change. Thought It was fuel boiling in the carb tried some stuff to correc
  10. Does it run smoothly cold and when warm, but starts to run rough hot and loose power when hot ?
  11. Once you get the misfires and running rough figured out if you get a light surge when running at steady throttle at about 40-45 and it seems low on power she is running lean. I can walk you threw tuning that carb. It will require multiple disassembles and some custom parts made but it’s worth it.
  12. .025 is good on the plugs. I also run a Detroit lubricator carb. Once tuned it’s one great performing carb that will last 1000 years.
  13. Yes the shaft runs in bushings one upper and one lower. There should be less that .001” clearance I measured mine with a dial indicator pushing the shaft back and forth.
  14. My experience is that any condenser will work, there are different capacitance ratings and the wrong one will result in faster points wear. But they should still work. On mine when I had misfires in the upper rpm range I traced it back to worn distributor shaft bearings. Once tightened up it revs smoothly to 3600rpm. The other issue I had with sluggish performance was the factory carb was jetted to lean for modern 10% ethanol fuel we have here in NH. Once corrected it runs strong from 10-65 in third and will pull 99% of hills in high. What carb are you running? What’s your plug gap? Valve las
  15. That’s exactly how I did my 28 std six, so I don’t see why it won’t work for you also.
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