keithb7

Looks like the Hastings 804 kit is an option that will work. Not readily found either.

Thanks for the suggestions so far. I have an original parts manual. I have been seeking out original part numbers on Ebay. No luck. I set up saved searches there for instant notification if some turn up. I have contacted both Egge and Hastings. So far no luck.

Hi, the vintage Mopar Canadian built 218 and 228 engines have a 3 ⅜" bore. I am trying to track down a set of standard size piston rings. 4 ring set per piston. If you have any, please contact me via email at kbarron2679@gmail.com Thanks, Keith

Thanks @Oldtech. I also recall doing some research earlier. If I bore the 3 ⅜ engine 1/16 over to 3 7/16" I see that Vintage Power Wagons offer a piston and ring set. They are $185 for all 6 pistons with rings! Thats attractive. Leaving my stroke as is at 4 ¼ I'd have about a 237 ci engine. That is certainly appealing to me. This idea sounds encouraging.

@plymouthcranbrookI have a few issues with the engine. Some oil burning going down hills. The rear crank seal is leaking pretty good. Block expansion plugs are leaking. I found excessive scale and rust build up in the lowest parts of the block. 2-3" deep of scale/rust. I wanted to get in there and address these issues. Also learn some skills. Measure and learn about the actual wear in my bores. Look at valve guide clearance. I just came in from the shop and using my dial bore gauge. I found .010 of cylinder taper. Not great. Yet as mentioned the engine ran pretty good. It made decent compression. Wondering if I could hone cylinders, slap in some new stock rings again? Clean out the block. New rear crank seal. New expansion plugs. Then enjoy the car as usual. As my cruiser with years of usable life in the engine still?

After posting this above I tried some scotch-brite to clean up the rust. It came off easily. Seems like it may have developed from the car sitting in my garage for the past 3 weeks unused? Humid air? I measure about a 0.012 to 0.014 ridge at the top of the cylinders. Here’s #1 again.

I have posted this on another forum too. I am looking to learn more about my recent findings. I am preparing to pull my 1953 Mopar engine. Canadian 25" block, 3 ⅜ bore x 4 ¼" stroke, netting 228 ci. Today I pulled the head. I measured and found stock bore bores still. What do you suppose would cause this top end of the cylinder rust? Sitting for decades in a humid environment? Cylinder 1 was the most prominent. Rust in cylinder 1 seems to travel down past the area where the top compression ring would slide. I would have wagered that a piston ring sliding over that area for the past 1500 miles would have taken that rust off. The scrape in the rust seen in cylinder 1 is from my finger nail scratching it. The engine ran and started very well. Earlier this year I recorded 95-100 psi across all cylinders. Wet or dry, not much difference. I put over 1550 miles on the engine between April and Oct this year. It made decent power. I got the engine tune dial'd in pretty well and it pulled hills very well. Easy to maintain 50-55 mph on varying hi-way terrain. I can feel some exhaust valve guide or stem wear. Not too bad. Guide wear on cylinders 1,2 & 6 mainly. I have not pulled the bottom end apart yet. I hope to pull the pistons and rods out. Then perhaps I can further measure compression ring end gaps. Your comments are appreciated. Thanks, Keith

My winter project is unfolding. Some new findings today. Stock, original bores. 3 ⅜“ bore x 4 ¼” stroke was measured. That confirms its a 228ci Canadian 25” long engine. It looks like someone was in there to address #6 exhaust valve at some point. It’s valve top is dished. Slightly different than all the other valves. Some exhaust valve guide wear found on cylinder 1,2 and 6. Engine is coming out soon. Tranny will drop this week. A progress video with all the details and my thoughts, will be on my YT channel soon. -K

Is that one of those Pre-War Chrysler Woodie kit cars I keep hearing about?....Some assembly required.

Those are fantastic pics. What model/year car is it? I can image the wind biting while traveling in those conditions. I suspect with the lack of an enclosed cab, there are no issues with the inside of the window frosting up. I assume there is no type of heater trying to blow warm air at your feet? Edmonton, Alberta, Canada...No place for the weary!

I suspect some people do indeed want to restore their rotting, old desirable cars. They just can't ever seem to get ahead financially to do so. They keep hanging on to the dream, not ready to give up and let it go. It seems every time things start to look good, something happens again, forcing you back into debt. Maybe health costs? Aging parents maybe? Or another family member needing financial help? We should never give up on our dreams. I too don't like seeing a great old car rotting in the weather. However I will try and give the benefit of the doubt to the owner. They may have the best intentions. The owner could indeed have legitimate reasons.

You betchya Doc. I keep building more. Must have sold 35 by now I estimate. Not 1 complaint yet! They've been shipped to some pretty cool places I hadn't expected! Please e-mail me direct at kbarron2679@gmail.com if you'd like one. Thanks, Keith.

I think it was May of 1927 when Charles left New York in the Spirit Of St. Louis. The plane was built in San Diego in 1927. It makes sense that the photo could have been taken in 1927 when he picked it up. Copied from Wikipedia: "Lindbergh arrived in San Diego on February 23 and toured the factory with Mahoney, meeting Bowlus, chief engineer Donald Hall, and sales manager A. J. Edwards. After further discussions between Mahoney, Hall and Lindbergh, Mahoney offered to build the Spirit for $10,580, restating his commitment to deliver it in 60 days. Lindbergh contributed $2,000 toward the cost of the Spirit that he had saved from his earnings as an Air Mail pilot." Did you know that there was no front windshield? Only view was out the sides of the plane. There were extra fuel tanks up front , and an oil tank where normally there would be a windshield.

Very nice, clean book. I assume the Hydrive is a manual shift tranny with a clutch and a torque converter. Is that correct? I've never driven or worked on one. You use the clutch to shift but not required when coming to a complete stop? Fluid drive characteristics from starting and stopping I assume. Thanks. Good luck with the sale.

Thanks for the kind replies folks. I am not in the professional business of using my voice. I do the YT videos just for fun. Doing video production ties nicely into my love for vintage cars. It enhances the old-car experience.

I am having lots of fun making these videos. My hope is that the next generation grabs on to these old gems! They are unique in many ways. Not seen on the roads too often any more.