Taylormade
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Posts posted by Taylormade
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Let Ian have some fun! It's not always about perfection or the ability to buy something. Sometimes it's gratifying just to make something and enjoy the process of figuring out how to do it.
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Three years, two months. I hope to be done next year.
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Sorry, l got a double post for some reason.
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For those few wondering if I have given up on my restoration - fear not, I will be here to annoy you for many months to come. A promised DIY bathroom renovation has taken up the last month of my free time. Building the Pyramids was probably less labor intensive. I just have to put up the glass shower door and I'm finished and hope to be back in the shop by the end of the week. I'll be working on my leaking transmission and spark plug wiring, then I hope to start the motor for the first time. My wife has been most patient about the time I spend out in the garage and I really owed her one concerning the bathroom.
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Jason rebuilt my starter, generator and distributor. They look great, but since I haven't started my car yet I can't attest to their functionality. Jason is not fast and I have to admit he forgot to send out my distributor so I lost a few days getting it installed, but it sure looks like a top notch job. I had better luck emailing him. The finish, plating and new tags on my restored units look better than new. When I posted pictures of my starter and generator, some folks objected to the polished stainless steel bands he installed as they were originally painted black. I liked the look, so I'm not going to paint them.
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I talked to Jason about that problem. He runs the rebuilt distributor on his machine to make sure everything is working properly. It's a good tip if you have an old unit where the insulation may have worn out.
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Got my distributor back from Jason at Advanced Electrical Rebuilders. It's going to be a slight delay in starting the engine since I have the transmission out at the moment, but it's coming soon.
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Created and rendered in Blender.
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Thanks, everyone. I'll let you know how it works out.
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That's the closest I could find, too, but I don't see "Quik Metal" anywhere on the package. It looks more like a filler rather than a shaft sealer - but I'm no expert as the past leaky month has illustrated.
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"I used Permatex quik-metal on the shafts and then assembled them. Had no leaks."
Hey jpage, where did you find this stuff? I've looked all over the internet and had no luck.
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I took off the freewheeling unit and discovered no oil had entered the unit. I think this relates to the owners manual instructions to run the motor after refilling the transmission to get the oil into the freewheeling case. This did make it easier to locate the leak, however. I filled the trans with the freewheeling unit off. Now the only leaks could be coming from the lower studs or the shafts. After a day the leak was back. I couldn't find any evidence of a leak around the studs, so the culprit must be the shaft or the screw hole that serves to locate and tighten the plate between the shafts. I don't think (I hope) the leak is in the left (reverse gear) shaft as it is so tight in the hole I can't remove it without disassembling the transmission. I suspect the right shaft, as it is loose enough to move back and forth with a bit of tapping. You can access the other end from the front of the case, while the reverse gear shaft end is buried inside the trans case.
So, the plan is to put some shaft sealant on the right shaft, put it back into place, put some thread sealant on the bolt that holds the plate and also put some silicon sealant on the back of the plate. Then a new gasket and Permatex aviation gasket sealant to button everything up. Maybe I'll get lucky this time!
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A few more detail shots. One of the advantages of modelling in 3D is that you can pose the car at any angle you want
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Glad to see you back, Ron. I was wondering where you had disappeared to.
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Great minds think alike.
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Just finished up this drawing of a generic Miller race car. I'm pretty happy with the way it came out.
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I know this doesn't belong in this thread, but I had to show off a little. My finished drawing of a generic Miller race car. I'm really happy with the way it turned out.
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I sealed them with thread lock, but that was the area that seemed to be leaking. I don't know what else to try to seal the threads.
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As I stated above, these folks have what you need at a reasonable price.
http://www.sharpeproducts.com/store/bent-90-pipe-tube-elbows-with-two-tangents
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After taking the freewheeling unit off, carefully cleaning all gasket residue, making a new gasket, sealing everything with Permatex Aviation Gasket and reassembling - I still have a leak in the same spot. I don't think it's coming from the shafts, but I have no choice - disassembly of the trans and seal the shafts. It feels like I'm taking two steps back for every one forward, but I want to get it right. This is becoming a major pain.
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No one to blame for the leak but yours truly. I took the freewheeling unit off - if you ever have to do this, be sure to remove the speedometer drive before you pull it off or you'll chew up the drive gear - and discovered two problems. First, four of the five studs screwed out rather than the nuts spinning off. Bad assembly procedure on my part. I seem to remember them being loose, but why I didn't seal them with Loctite when I put the unit together I'll never understand. The leak was coming from around one of the studs. They will go back in with a sealer this time around. In this shot you can see the problem area - the stud that used to occupy the hole above and to the right of the shaft. The area around the shaft was not leaking.
Second problem - the gasket was not sealing correctly. The gasket cement didn't do the job. It literally fell of and wasn't stuck to anything. I cleaned this area carefully before I applied it, so this stuff was useless. Anyone have any recommendations on something that actually works? In this photo you can see the wet area around the hole where the leaking stud was located. At least this was an easy thing to figure out and I can fix it. Just a wasted couple of days due to my negligence.
If anyone is getting tired off this topic - I know I am - I'm sorry. I get a bit obsessive about this stuff at times, but I find it helps me to go back at times and learn for my mistakes. Thanks for your patience..
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Before and after pictures, plus a table full of parts that had to be removed. I never had any problems with the transmission when I owned the car and Phil never reported anything while he owned it. I mistakenly thought this part of the restoration would be the least problematic. WRONG! Learning how to rebuild one of these transmissions and finding a new shaft with the correct helix to the gear has been quite a journey. Now I get to take the transmission apart a second time.
Here is the leak that has caused all the latest angst. Looks like it is coming from just above the shafts. Some of the dark stuff you see is gasket cement that oozed out during assembly. I must have missed a spot or damaged the gasket during assembly.
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I spent the morning taking everything - and I mean everything - off the transmission. After loosening dozens of bolts and nuts, chipping paint, and much muttering, I finally got down to the bare back of the tranny and there was the leak. To my pleasant surprise, it looks like it's coming from the joint between the trans case and the freewheeling case, not the shafts as I had suspected. It appears to be running down from just above the shafts, then down and around them. I was in the shower when I realized I hadn't taken a photo of the leaking area. I'll try to post something later today. To make sure this problem is permanently solved, I plan the remove the freewheeling case and replace the gasket (which I obviously screwed up in the first place) and to seal the shafts with Permatex 20297. Then I'll leave it for a few days to check for leaks before I put everything back on.
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My leaking transmission has turned in to a gigantic pain in the you know what. I have finally tracked down the source of the leak - I think. First of all, almost everything on this car is easily accessible, with one exception - the rear of the transmission! Naturally, that's where the leak is coming from. The "Floating Power" mounting setup on the transmission is oddly designed, almost as if Dodge Brothers had hired an English engineer to come across the pond and design it for them. As you can see in the picture below, the rear of the tranny is surrounded buy the gray-painted mount. At the bottom of the gray mount is the thick rubber pad the supports the transmission. This is right up against the rear of the transmission case and it makes it almost impossible to get my fat fingers down in there to feel for oil and try to ascertain the source of the leak. Visually, there is no way to see what is going on back there. (Sorry about the rusty shift lever, it's just on temporarily to test shifting the gears, and is not yet painted or restored).
To get to the suspect area I will have to remove the entire parking brake mechanism, then take off the front U-joint (A real pain as the nuts are buried deep inside the parking brake drum), remove the parking brake drum, take off the mounting bolts that hold the trans mount to the trans (held on with metal tab washers that took forever to source and which I hope I don't damage prying the tabs back), wrestle the mount and rubber pad off the frame and back of the trans to finally see the area I need to examine. It was an all day job to put this all together a few months ago and now I'll need to do it again.
This is where I strongly suspect the leak is coming from and it's not good news. This shot of my spare transmission shows the rear of the case lying on its side. The freewheeling case has been removed - it's held on by the five studs visible in the shot. I can just get my fingers up in this area and I get oil when I touch the right shaft visible at the bottom. I can't reach the left shaft. The oil is either coming out of the space where the shaft meets the case - it's an interference fit, or it's coming from just above from a leak in the gasket between the trans case and the freewheeling case. I'm hoping it's the gasket, even though it means taking the case back off and making a new gasket. But I suspect the leak is from around the two shafts. They are not sealed, they just stick out of the back of the case and are held in by a flat plate that fits in notches in the shafts and bolts to the case. The amount of grease and oil around this area on the spare tranny makes me think this is a problem area.
The real question is how to seal the shafts? There is no gasket or rubber grommet that will address the problem. It's a poor design with no real solution that I can see. The new oil in the tranny is very thick and it is still leaking, albeit a very small amount. But once the oil heats up in a normal driving situation and thins out, I'll have a Niagara of oil back there. More to come.
The real question is how to seal the shafts? There is no gasket or rubber grommet that will address the problem. It's a poor design with no real solution that i can see. The new oil in the tranny is very thick and it is still leaking, albeit a very small amount. But once the oil heats up in a normal driving situation, I'll have a Niagara of oil back there. More to come.
1929 Buick
in General Discussion
Posted
We need more information to make an educated response.
Does it run?
ls the body wood solid and rot free?
What does the interior look like?
Any rust out?
It looks like a fairly solid car in need of a complete going over. The condition of the running boards has me a bit worried. I hope the interior body wood is in better shape. The 29 "pregnant" Buicks are not that popular, although I've always liked them. It's a sedan with no side mounts, the bottom rung in popularity. Depending on the above, I'd say between 3 to 4 thousand.