Taylormade
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Posts posted by Taylormade
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Just finished running the plug wires I got a Hershey last year. I just bought the raw wire and ends and made them up myself. I know black is probably correct, but I couldn't resist the orange and black to add a little color to the engine compartment. Still need to install a few ends at the distributor. Fishing the wires through the "loom" or whatever you call it was interesting. To put it mildly, I'm not a patient guy.
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I have the new bearing in place. It was no slip fit! As we pressed it on it popped onto the shaft with a bang like a gunshot. No damage, so I guess everything is okay. It turns smoothly and freely with no wobble like the old one.
At first I thought it wasn't all the way on as the old bearing sat so the inner lip that holds the seal stuck up maybe a 1/16th of an inch. The new bearing must be just a bit thicker than the old one, as the back of the bearing is seated right against the ridge of the sleeve.
Thankfully, I didn't force anything trying to get it on farther. This brings up another small problem. If I can find a seal that fits, I may have to try and find one that is slightly thinner so I have room to swage it in place on the lip.
I can't tell you how much fun I'm having with this - NOT.
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16 minutes ago, Owen_Dyneto said:
For that type of seal I've just purchased a new felt and inserted it into the old metal carrier. I purchased the felts from George at OlCar Bearing though I don't see any reason why you couldn't just buy sheet felt and cut your own ring.
That's a great idea. but there is a problem. The front face of the new throwout bearing is not the same as the old one. The new bearing has a slightly smaller opening.
So the current seal will not fit as its OD is too big. The metal channel of the seal hits the bearing. I need a seal with the same ID and a 47.85 OD.
This is how the seal fits (the green area is the seal).
I also noticed that the new bearing is just a little thicker than the old one. I have it seated down all the way and it is flush with the inner lip rather than being slightly below it as the old bearing was in the picture above.. So I probably need a slightly thinner seal to be able to swage it in place.
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Does anyone know what this type of seal is called. It's felt on the outer diameter encased in a steel channel. It fits on the end of the throwout bearing sleeve on my 1932 Dodge DL. Not sure if they still make this type of thing or where I would get one. Size is 41.9mm ID and 47.85 OD.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
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More information on the seal problem. The seal fits on a lip on the sleeve. In my Owner's Manual it shows the bearing and the sleeve, but there is no indication of any seal. My car (and owner's manual) are very early in production numbers, The first month of DL models built, so it may have been changed in later models or when the throwout bearing was replaced sometime in my car's history. I know Phil and I didn't ever mess with it.
So, my sleeve my be a retrofit and this may be where the problem is occurring. On my current sleeve, the seal fits on a lip shown in the photo below. The bearing fits on the fatter part of the sleeve below the lip.
This is the old seal resting on the top of the lip. It slides down the lip and seats on the second lip.
Comparing the old bearing with the new one I purchased, the one notable difference is the inner diameter at the front of the bearing. Both bearings are exactly the same at the rear of the bearing (46.7mm) which makes sense as that's the part that fits on the fat part of the sleeve. But at the front, in inner diameter of the old bearing is 51.3mm while the new bearing is 47.85 mm.
The current seal is felt in a metal channel. The size (metal only) is ID 41.9mm, OD 50.7mm, so the outer diameter is too large for my new bearing. Looks like I need a 41.9mm X 47.85 or something close. I'm not sure how they measure the outer felt area. The inner diameter is metal on metal and should be the same.
I guess I'll poke around the internet and see what I can find. If anyone has an extra sleeve lying around, I'd be curious if it has the lip for the seal or not.
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It's felt inside steel channel. I'll take a close shot tomorrow. This bearing is lubed by a flexible metal tube with a grease cup at the end. You turn the top of the grease cup every five hundred miles. It's not real high pressure.
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Well, the old seal doesn't fit in the new bearing. The OD of the old seal is about 50mm - it's no longer round and varies between 50 and 51. The ID of the new bearing is 47.5mm and the shaft it fits on is 42.95mm. I guess the new bearings must be slightly different.
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1 minute ago, Spinneyhill said:
Any number on the seal?
Not that I can find. Flat and blank on top and nothing on the sides. I was hoping, too. You can see in the photos there is nothing on it.
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Yeah, I thought so, too. I know you said yours was a fairly loose fit, but this thing was almost welded on! Once I split it, it popped right off and the expected corrosion wasn't there. It seems odd that just a press fit would be that tight, but it was.
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Well, I think your well wishing may have worked. The bearings arrived yesterday and, as Spinneyhill said they are 1872 (despite my local bearing shop saying 1872 was only the race) and look like they will fit. My next task was to get the old bearing off the mount. This proved to be a real bear! The new bearing helped determine just what was supposed to come off. I discovered that the green area in the photo below was a seal that was held on by three swaged areas, two of which are visible in the shot.
How you get this off with the bearing in place I have no idea, so I tried to take the bearing off. No amount of prying. pressure, swearing, or sweating seemed to work. As I worked on it, the old bearing began to come apart. I finally took what was left down to the local auto shop and we tried to press it out - but there was nothing to grip on the bearing anymore. Back home I took the bearing totally apart until only the inner race remained. With just the inner race in place, I could get the seal off without too much damage. Then I had to grind the inner race down very carefully so I didn't get into any of the mount and damage it. I finally cut a diagonal across the race and split it with a chisel, and BANG! it popped free.
Here's the mount and what's left of the old bearing. The seal is in the lower left corner.
I plan to press the bearing on tomorrow and head down to the bearing shop to see if I can find a seal that fits. I may be able to save the old one, but I hope I can find a new one that fits.
Ready to be assembled.
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You're probably already too deep in to go back to the original 6 volt set-up, but with the proper sized cables, clean terminals, and good wiring, 6 volts works fine and did for many, many years. My 32 Dodge started in the coldest weather in Syracuse, New York back when I was in college and I expect it will when I finish restoring it.
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Thanks, Kevin. It's fun, but sometimes frustrating, to figure out how parts of these old buggies were constructed, and then to restore said parts. Modern seals did not work in my shocks because of the curvature of the dome housing prevented them from seating correctly. Luckily, the cork seals from 31 Chevy shocks (basically the same shock) fit perfectly and were readily available. Good luck getting that last shock working correctly.
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Mine were single action so my rebuild may not apply. I did discover that the only two things that usually fail are the shaft seal or wear to the shaft, both of which are addressed on my thread.
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Coming along! Glad you're going with the vertical fore grip - much better looking than the horizontal variant.
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I did some searching on the net and found a place called Locate Ball Bearings. They claim to have access to most bearing supplies in the U.S. After talking to a guy in their Chat application, he found they had two C.T.30 New Departure bearings in stock, so I ordered them. We'll see what happens when they arrive. I won't be convinced they are correct until I see them, but he did mention that the original Chrysler part numbers were listed on the information sheet, and I'm hoping that this time will be the charm. They should be here next week and I'll let everyone know the outcome of this adventure. I bought both since he said these were the only two he could find anywhere. I guess I'm either going to be a genius or a total sucker - only time will tell.
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Well, my E Bay bearing wasn't even close. Too small OD and ID. Back to the drawing board. Little setbacks like this drive you crazy - a part way down deep in the drive-train, so I'll have to wait to put anything back together again. At least my tranny shows no sign of any leaks!
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No crack. That's a casting mark - a seam in the mold.
This is a picture of a Timken 1872 bearing. It is listed as a throwout bearing, but it's obviously not what is on my car. But I also have run into situations where the picture is just representative of the product and not the actual product. It doesn't state that in this ad, but who knows? Summit Racing also lists a Timken 1872 throwout bearing, but they show a "representative" photo, so I have no idea if it's really the correct bearing. Waiting for the EBay purchase, and I'll go from there.
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Some better news tonight - after 24 hours there is no sign of a leak. I've been rotating the gears and shifting the trans and it's still dry. I'll feel better if it lasts for a day or two, but in the past the leak always started within an hour or two of filling with oil. I bought a throw-out bearing on EBay. We'll see if it fits when it arrives. I'm not holding my breath as I've been down this road too many times before.
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A trip to the bearing shop today resulted in depressing news - no luck on the throwout bearing. The Timken 1872 comes back as an obsolete shell for a bearing, but not the bearing proper. All other numbers were so old that nothing came close to matching. This is another setback as I was hoping to finally have the drive-train finished. I hesitate to put this bearing back in and have it fail after a few hundred miles. Spinning it reveals some rough sounding noises that are either worn bearings or grit and contamination in the grease inside. I also notice a slight wobble when I spin the bearing. Not good news.
Back to the drawing boards. I did fill the transmission with oil, so we'll soon see if I've fixed the leak.
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Hmmmm, I didn't think about that. I don't have the brazing skills to do it, and I assume you would have to find an expert so the collar wouldn't be damaged by the heat. Just another problem to solve.
Thanks, Phil. I'm heading to the bearing store tomorrow to see what I can find. They have managed to find just about everything I've needed, so far.
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Sure looks similar to mine. The retainer seems to be the same, but the bearing configuration looks a bit different. It probably doesn't make all that much difference if the inner and outer diameter are correct.
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After taking the transmission out, I discovered my throwout bearing sounds a bit rough, so I'm searching for a new one. There is a guy on EBay selling what are supposed to be the correct bearing, but I have reservations. The bearing I have is a New Departure and the only number I can find on it is C.T.30 There is also the letter U stamped between New Departure and Made in the U.S.A.
Does anyone know the correct factory number for this part for a 1932 Dodge Brothers DL? Has anyone taken one of these apart off the mount and installed the new bearing? I assume they are a press fit, but how hard are they to get off and how do you do it?
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The seat bolts to the floor on each side, two or three bolts if I remember, but you can look under there and see. Once the bolts are free you can just move the seat forward and probably won't need to remove it to install seat belts. Be aware that the floors on these old Mopars are very prone to rust, as water collects under the carpet padding and stays there, causing floor damage. Simply bolting the seat belt mounts to the thin floor, especially if it is rusty, will not afford much protection - you may want to add bracing under the floor during installation.
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Back to work on Daphne. I hope my latest attempt to fix the leaking transmission proves to be successful. It's very difficult to tell just where the leak is coming from as the oil follows the rules of gravity and flows from the top down. The problem is, it gathers around the shafts and the actual leak is almost impossible to spot. I suspected it was coming from the shaft on the right, but it could be coming from the joint between the transmission case and the freewheeling case and dripping down around the shaft. I figured the only solution was to take everything apart and start over,
I took the transmission out and removed the freewheeling unit from the back. Then I extended the two shafts, cleaned everything up and used Loctite 660 to seal the shafts and put them back in.
I cleaned up all the mating surfaces to make sure everything was smooth and spotless.
Then I cut a new gasket, applied sealer and buttoned everything back up. As a final measure, I applied a very thin coating of Permatex Ultra-Grey, their most oil resistant sealer, around the shafts. I was hot and tired at this point and forgot to take shots of the finished product before I installed the Floating Power rubber mount, but you can kind of see the end result in this shot. Not the neatest application, but the best I could do.
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I'm hoping the combination of the shaft sealer, new gasket and silicon will end the leaking problem. I have to wait 24 hours before I can fill the transmission and get the good/bad news. If it's still leaking at this point, I plan to buy a large metal pan to put under the car and just give ithe back of the transmission a good wipe before I drive it.
The Ressurection of Daphne - a 1932 DL
in Dodge & Dodge Brothers
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That may be the only solution. It won't be easy as the metal of the seal is rather fragile, but I don't see any other way. I do plan on stopping by the bearing shop Monday in a last ditch effort to find something.