[Any idea this neon?]

[Any idea this neon?]

Perfect Circle Piston Rings logo.

[1933 plymouth pd door handle repair]

OK, here is a series of photos of a 34 door latch taken from the driver's side, front, which should be about the same as your 33 since it does not have the outside door lock components that are on the passenger side 34.  You can see the square hole where the handle shaft comes in from the outside.  As I suggested and as Jack M noted, some wiggling of the handle, coupled with some WD40, should remove the outside handle once you remove the two outside screws.  On the latch assembly, you can see all of the 'wear' points which would drag and restrict the shaft returning to the full 'up' position.  What is most likely source, however, is that the curlicue return spring you can see in the picture is either worn out or broken.  Easy to replace, clean and lube the entire assembly and you should be good to go.  These springs are available almost everywhere, ebay, Mopar part sellers, etc.

[1933 plymouth pd door handle repair]

I guess I would try to find out why the handles are not returning to full up first.  They are only connected to the inside handle by a flat bar and a bell crank, so I don't think those would be the problem.  I have taken the inside handle posts off before and that is easy, very accessible.  If you are in there you might want to check the springs which 'lock' the inside handles, those are notorious for breaking/wearing out and are easily replaced.  My guess is that the problem is in the door latch itself, which is what the shaft from the outside handle goes directly into.  If the square bushing that it goes into is worn out, then you probably will have to remove the latch assembly and repair/replace.  I would first loosen, but not remove, the screw heads in the door jamb that hold the assembly in place and shoot it full of your favorite 'loosener', be it WD40 or Kroil. Grab the tongue of the latch and make sure it is not 'cocked' in the hole and hanging up.  Work the assembly with the handle to make sure everything is working.  If that doesn't fix it, my recollection is that there is a spring in the assembly that accomplishes the 'return' of the tongue and handle.  That may be broken or simply worn out.  Don't have one in front of me right now but I seem to recall such an assembly.  No removal 'tricks' that I can recall offhand but I assume that you should run the window all the way up so that the track and arms are clear of the latch.  Lock is in the handle assembly so no need to remove the separate lock assembly in the door like on the 34.  Make sure your tetanus shots are up to date and dive in.  SMB

[1933 plymouth pd door handle repair]

I have a couple of 34s and some 33 doors and I believe they all come apart the same.  Outside handles are held on by the two screws on the outside of the car.  The inside handles are held on by a cross pin through the shaft on the inside.  Need to press the inside escutcheon plate in far enough so the pin can be seen and then simply push it out.  This is difficult sometimes due to the type of upholstery in place--if it is too thick it is hard to push the escutcheon plate in far enough to clear the pin.  There are tools made for this that work quite well, see internet/ebay.  33 door doesn't have vent windows, but if that is what you have those handles come off with a visible set screw, the escutcheon is simply held on with the handle.  The door card/panel is held in place by the window garnish, which is easy to remove by taking out the visible screws.  The panel itself is held in along the sides and bottom with clips--simply slide a putty knife or screwdriver into the edge and pry out.  Try to keep your pry device immediately adjacent to the clips--if you get too far away from it and the clip is being stubborn, you can risk punching through the door card.  The bottom edge is also held on by clips but there should be a sheet rubber gasket along the bottom as a draft stop.  Same approach with the clips.  If you need to take the door lever machinery apart, that is all held on with screws that are obvious once the door card is off.  The door latch itself, which may be the source of the problem, is removed by screws visible in the door jamb. Have fun.

[1957 Cadillac - no idea]

Fuel pump with a combined vacuum pump on the bottom, probably to power windshield wipers.

[FS 1936 running engine, out of a dodge D2 4door sedan]

The ultimate 'Floating Power'.  Your location?  SMB

[Old car frame]

Looks like 32-33 Mopar.

[1934 CHRYSLER CONVERTIBLE Coupe phoenix AZ craigslist]

Gorgeous car when finished but virtually impossible to find the 'convertible only' parts for all three of the Chrysler, Plymouth and Dodge versions.  I don't know enough about the 34 DeSoto but I believe it has the same 'convertible unique' parts.  The 34 models are particularly difficult because of the vent/door window assemblies, which are complex, differ from the single pane 33 versions (which is what many owners default to when they can't find the 34 version) and also differ from the closed cars with the vent/door type assemblies.  Took me YEARS to find them for my 34 Plymouth PE convertible coupe.  The cowl parts and folding windshield posts show up from time to time (on the Plymouth they are the same 33-34) and there may be an interchange on the locking knobs for those posts (the knobs are a very complicated assembly as they incorporate a locking pin and are not just 'cast' in one piece). My guess is that these were made by an independent contractor because, for example, the windshield posts look almost the same as those on a 31 Chevrolet, but they are slightly different and do not interchange.  Somebody needs to save this Chrysler.

[Old Plymouth Fender ID]

Agree with most of the above.  Definitely not 34, no apron on the side and too short for the 114" wheelbase on the 34 PE model (although the 34 PF and PG with the 108" wheelbase had a shorter fender).  The lack of the apron is the determinative fact, plus the bolt hole pattern for the headlight bracket runs front to back on the 34s, not side to side as on this one and as on the 33.  Not a Dodge because it lacks the spear bead on the front crown.  Not 33 Desoto because they wrap around the bottom of the radiator shell, much like a 33-34 Ford.  Best guess:  33 PD.  The PC is significantly shorter and I remember having a couple of those fenders years ago and they look almost 'round' when viewed from the side, visually much shorter looking than this one.  Looks like a nice fender, first one I have seen in a long time without the front bumper bracket hole being all torn out. 

[Your thoughts on this design?]

If my King's English is correct, taking it from a two-door coupe to a four-door makes it a 'saloon', which is where it looks like it was designed, after a wee dram or two...As noted above, just because you can doesn't mean you should.

[P2 dome light]

Couple of photos of the dome light disassembled so you can see the tabs that hold it together.

[P2 dome light]

The outside chrome ring and the lens comes out as a unit.  The switch stays put with the body of the light.  The outside ring has 4 lightly spring loaded tabs that stick straight up into the body of the light.  There are no screws or clips involved.  I will shoot a couple of pictures to you shortly, showing one disassembled.  To remove, I would just try to slip my fingers under the outside of the chrome lip on the long sides of the lip and simply pull down, perhaps with a slight wiggle.  Be careful as the glass lens will come with the chrome lip.  The body will be screwed into the roof bows and the switch, as well as the switch lever, will stay attached.

[Christmas and New Year images]

Always been one of my favorites, 1911 Baker Electric I believe.

[Lindbergh and Chrysler?]

The newspaper clipping raises an interesting distinction by its reference to the 'North Island flying ground of the United States Navy'.  The plane was built at Ryan Aviation which was located roughly just north of the current San Diego/Lindberg Field airport.  North Island is across the bay, next to Coronado Island, and remains a USN airbase to this day.  I have seen photos in the past of the Spirit flying over San Diego on test flights so there is no reason it could not have relocated to North Island before the flight to NYC.  I note that the license plate frame seems to say something--perhaps 'San Diego'--those frames from the late 20s are incredibly scarce.  Finally, in response to Keiser and Arkopolis' comments, the original San Diego Aerospace Museum did burn down in the late 70s.  It was replaced shortly thereafter at its current location, the old 'Ford Building', also in Balboa Park but in the portion that was part of the 1935 Exposition.  Ford used the building to showcase its new 1935 models, including in a test track located behind the building to give visitors a chance to ride in the 'new Ford' over various terrains, etc.  The Aerospace Museum is WELL worth a visit.  Fantastic collection of aircraft (including another rebuilt exact replica of the Spirit of St. Louis) and original building with murals depicting the history of transportation.  Just next door is the San Diego Automobile Museum which is also worth a visit. 

[Pre war car service at modern dealership.]

Modern dealerships are, in my experience, virtually worthless unless you are looking to purchase a new model.  Recently brought my daily driver 2009 Jeep Grand Cherokee into the local Chrysler Jeep dealer and was told that 'we don't like to work on these old models'.  It is going to be interesting how they are going to comply with the Lifetime Power Train Warranty I got from them when I bought it new from them, which requires it be submitted for an inspection (free) every 5 years.  Heaven forbid that they would have to fix something.  Even the parts departments are a joke.  Granted, the computer parts catalogues are perhaps better than the banks of 3-ring binders we used to see used by a seasoned counter man (person).  However, I can recount several instances when I was told, based upon the computer, that some part didn't exist or didn't fit my Jeep when I was standing right in front of them with the broken part in my hand.  Went home and with ten minutes on the web or ebay the correct part was on its way to me in the mail.

Cannot imagine what would happen if I pulled up in any of my 34 Mopars with a request for service.  Not going to happen.

[The acceptance of electronic versions of the antique automobiles]

Bottom line, its a hot rod.  Only difference is that instead of a $3000 small block Chevy you now have, as one poster indicated, a $60,000 transplant.  Fast as hell, granted.  Only satisfaction is that now all the late 60s 'classic cars' that came with small block Chevy engines as original equipment will be having them replaced with Tesla electric motors.  I think original vehicles, full classics or otherwise, with stock drivetrains or minor modifications (e.g., Model As with hydraulic brakes) will continue to have their own, unique appeal, which cannot be replaced with electronics or other updates.

[Dodge Brothers Rear Spare Tire Cover FS (1932?)]

See my reply under general discussion.  Emblem is 33-34-35, cover is not.

[Dodge Brothers Spare Tire cover]

I think what you have is somewhat of a mis-match between the cover and the emblem.  The Dodge wings did not come in that color scheme until 1933, and what you have almost looks like a 35 Dodge trunk emblem.  In any event, the emblem is not a 32.  There is also the extreme difference between the condition of the cover and the enamel on the emblem--one would not expect the emblem to be so spotless when the cover has obviously seen a rough life.  Further, the cover is definitely not a 33 or newer, so it mis-matches the emblem.  The 32 emblem is a different color scheme, part blue and part silver, also a very striking emblem (see attached photo).  Don't know about the year on the cover itself other than it is not a 33-34-35 Dodge.  Emblem is valuable and worthy of saving, someone else will have to help with an ID and/or value on the cover.  

[YOUR wedding photos in an antique]

My 34 Plym PE has become the vehicle of choice for family weddings.  Bride here, one of my wife's cousins, made it to the church on time but the bridesmaids' new bus broke down and was late!

[1933 Desoto Horns]

SOLD.

[Why Would Someone (I Assume This Is Not Factory) Mess Up A Thermostat Housing Like This？]

I originally thought as above, bleed valve to remove air from the system but correct that it is on the wrong side of the thermostat.  Having worked on lots of old industrial, non-car machinery over the years, that looks like a typical installation for a gauge of some sort, particularly the valve used.  Could shut the valve to avoid leaks if the gauge failed and/or to change the gauge.  Could be, I suppose, for either temperature or, less likely, pressure.

[Period images to relieve some of the stress]

John's photos of all those obscure foreign cars made me think of this movie clip from the 3 Stooges in 'Punch Drunks'.  Damsel in distress in her 34 Plymouth PE convertible coupe, stuck in a ditch:

Damsel:  "I'm in a terrible dilemma!"

Mo:  "Yeah, I don't go for those foreign cars either."

[1933 Desoto Horns]

Still have these listed, more photos in the listing.  The reserve (i.e., this amount will buy them if not outbid) is $320, plus $20 shipping.  That is my friend's price and that's why they were listed at that price.  Same price range as the Plymouth and Dodge versions, which are a lot more common.  Would really like these to go to someone who can use them, very nice set of horns.

[Period images to relieve some of the stress]

Some 1934 Plymouth PE convertible coupe memories.