BlueDevil

Does anyone have a picture or diagram of the battery to starter cable routing? Thanks

Hence still being attached to the hoist. Work is done, goes back in Saturday.

Now you have scared me. I am going to take the wheels off my '38 Packard 12 so it doesn't roll into the lake.

That is assembly lube that has had a few turns. No threads. The babbit is like new

Don't worry, I had my neighbor get under the engine to inspect it.

Good call ABear, Put my new OEM spec cables on and it spins like a champ. Thanks

Thanks nearchocolatetown. Are you ex Bethlehem? I was at Pittsburgh, Aliquippa, and Cleveland works. I am finishing my 50th and last year in the steel industry and this is how we changed the rolls in the rolling mills, at least the smaller ones.

I can manually turn my engine over by hand, but I cannot get the starter to turn it more than a couple inches. I have rebuilt the starter, and it runs, but it doesn't generate enough torque to turn the engine over and it is basically a gear reduction starter. I am jumping the starter off jumper cables and a fully charged 6 volt battery. Suggestions?

Also, if they were using a rope seal, why would there be a slinger on the crank to begin with??

I had to remove a freshly painted and assembled engine and didn't want to take the head off to use the studs with my engine hoist. I went to Harbor Freight and got 2, 6400# WLL (working load limit) straps. Cost was under $10 each if you are a member of their club. I like them a lot better than the chains and I could still use my leveler.

There has been a lot of good but conflicting information confirming both the inclusion of a rear rope type seal and just an oil slinger. I put both my 72 and 75 engines together with those seals that were in my gasket kit and ran into a major problem. It took 80 #/ft. of torque to turn the engine over, the starter was useless and there was definitely no way to hand crank it. I am going to remove the seals and try it without. All the bearing clearances are good. I loosened all but the front and rear main bearing caps with no effect, but when I loosened the rear everything turned smoothly. I guess there is a reason for the nearly 1/2" hole in the bottom of the rear main cap. I will put it back together and see how things go.

I think this belongs here.

Thanks

Yes, that would be the one.

Ok, what is this badge supposed to look like. Specifically the outer edge and the finishes inside the Chrysler emblem. Thanks

Off she goes

Off to paint

Off to paint today. Finally. This is the color combo

Two horse

Off to paint today. Finally. This is the color combo

I had a restored original yom plate and I was accused of having a reproduction and it took getting the guy I bought it from to send pictures he had before and after restoration. Georgia finally granted its use.

They revised the price to $106,400. I guess there is a fee involved. Alsance, I agree. The chrome wires didn't seem right plus some other stuff.

Cold rolled. You will have a hard time finding hot rolled thinner than .075. CR has more uniform gauge and physical properties and has a smoother surface.

Love the period optional bullet holes. Quite a save.