BlueDevil

That was it. Fired up for the first time in probably 40 years.

Ip, That would help. Regardless to whether it is RHD or LHD the battery and the starter are in the same place so the wiring would be the same I would think. Thank you.

Found the vacuum port was open to atmosphere as a result of putting in the electric pump and disconnecting the vacuum tank, so it was not sucking air thru the carb. Put in a 1/8" pipe plug and it fired right up for the first time in probably 40 years or so.

I think it is part of a burned Tesla.

That was it. Put in the plug and for the first time in probably 40 years, it fired right up.

Generator coffee cup holder? Various makes??

Thanks 31, So does my 72, but I was just wondering if something changed in '29? There are other major (brakes) differences

I think I am on to something. I have satisfied myself that the car is properly timed, points are adjusted and spark is getting to the plugs, that leaves fuel and air as the only issue. Since is backfired once, I believe that it has compression, but I ordered a Model A Ford 14mm spark plug adapter to hook up my compression gauge to be sure. I started to think about vacuum and this car has had the vacuum tank bypassed for the electric fuel pump. I checked the intake and the vacuum port is open to the atmosphere and is located probably 4-6 inches up stream from the carb. since it has a 45 degree adapter to get the BB-1 to fit around the generator. My thinking is it is pulling air directly from the atmosphere without going thru the carb. I will plug it with a 1/8" NPT plug and see what that does.

I would give Hart's a plug also. They did my Pierce rods and a main on my Packard 12. Reasonable price and fairly quick turnaround.

I have been told JB Machine In Baltimore converts Chrysler babbit bearing to inserts. I was told it was about $3K for a late '20's 6. They might do other ones. Bill

Thanks, that is how thick mine is.

Here is the cutdown version. The one on the left is how it mounts on the top of the springs held on with the spring U bolts.

Vintageben, Great information. Do you know how thick the honeycomb ones are? Thanks Bill

I put in both ways, no difference.

I am having trouble getting my 75 to start. This is after rebuild with a lot of care on setting up the cam, crank, generator and distributor alignment. Valves have been clearanced. It turns, has spark at the plugs, the points and condenser are new and are set right, timing is not 180 out, has fuel to the carb. Got one backfire thru the carb with either. Things I found were one of the distributor cap pins that pierces the ignition wire, was located off center and didn't pierce the wire. Shaved one side and was able to get the pin to pierce the wire. Checked continuity on all distributor terminals to plugs and all are ok and are installed correctly. No cracks in the cap, the rotor is good, plug and plug wires are new. Point gap was too small and the slots in the screws that hold the points in were worn to the point you couldn't tighten them. They were replaced. Did the TDC checks and verified valve position. PO fitted a electric fuel pump and it gets gas to the carb, which was rebuilt. Advancing/retarding the dizzy doesn't change anything. Looking for some fresh eyes/brains. Tomorrow I plan on starting at ground 0 and checking everything again.

Here is what mine looks like.

Mock up, sort of.

After a discussion with James Baxter who owns Tip Top Engineering in England, I am in the process of adapting the Andre Hartford shocks to the front axle. James's business is vintage race cars and he has some marvelous stuff in his shop. The plan is to have a leaf spring with a bush eye and attach it to the top of the leaf springs with the existing U bolts at the top of the spring stack, under the rebound rubber. That will allow a bolt to go thru and attach to the lower AH shock. I sourced a short 2" wide trailer spring with 2 eyes, bushed them to the bolt size and will cut them to a shorter length, probably 6" or less, to fit the spring. Spring and bushings were under $50. The hard part is going to be the upper mount.

Engine is back in, everything is hooked up, have spark, not sure it is at the right time, turns with plugs in and has compression, just need some ethanol free gas and hope it runs. The radiator is another subject.

Ok, what is the original type radiator core construction?

My car was missing all it's side mount hardware. With the help of Jay A., I think I have everything but the 2 outer clamps and the brace I have listed elsewhere. The inside of the rim has a different contour vs the outside and takes a different clamp from what I have. Anyone have one or a pair? Inner rim Outer rim

Bump

I would think out, but that is just me.

I am trying to find a car cover for my Chrysler 75 phaeton. The online sites with the dropdown Year/Make/Model menu don't have this one. I cant find a listing but I would think I could get by with one for a sedan or some other 121" wheelbase car? This is just for in the shop cover but I would like something better than a big sheet. Ideas?

Be sure to be careful with the bleeder screw. Since it is hollow, it is prone to twisting off and then the real problem starts. Don’t force it.