Eric's.64.Superwildcat

Does anyone know how to remove the heater and A/C control knobs? I'm assuming that pulling really hard isn't the answer (I tried it). I have the control unit out and I'd like to really clean it up, removing the control knobs will help with that. This is on a '64. Photo below. Thanks.

I don't know that the high performance option (code W5) was available from the dealer. There were other differences in addition to the carburetors and intake manifold. The Super Wildcat engine also used a different distributor from the base 425 (distributor 1111055 stamped for the base engine and 1111058 for the Super Wildcat). The different distributor had a different and more aggressive timing curve. I think the KW stamping indicates the base engine.

It looks awesome Pete.

Very cool. It certainly looks clean and original. The only thing that catches my eye is that the valve covers are incorrect for the '64 high performance option. It should have the aluminum finned valve covers with B-U-I-C-K on the side. There is also no mention of original paperwork or history, which I would have hoped for on a car described as a time capsule. Perhaps that would give insight into the valve cover inconsistency. If any board members are bidding on it then it might be helpful to ask the seller about any original documentation. Overall, it looks like a desirable car.

Rush, Do you have the chassis manual? It will show the position and routing of all heater/AC components. You're better off troubleshooting A/C issues (i.e. blowing cold air) separately from air flow issues since they are largely independent of one another. You are correct that the "outside/recirculated" vacuum is mounted below the blower. It is a two-stage diaphragm and should have two lines going to it. If you can hear a vacuum leak behind your heater and A/C controls you should start there since it is closer to the vacuum source - if you're losing vacuum there then you'll never get it down stream. The vacuum lines are color coded and each color's function is documented in the chassis manual. Vacuum is only one part of the puzzle, the other part is the actual functioning of the mechanical doors within the ductwork. For example, when I removed my "outside/recirculated" duct I found a broken spring and the vent door was just hanging there. No amount of vacuum line work was going to fix that. There is another vacuum controlled door for temp control (also with a spring attached) and then there is door for redirecting air to the front windshield defroster - which is cable operated. I've included a couple of photos below so you can see what I'm talking about. Please keep this thread updated with your progress and good luck.

Ed, I looked a Mr. G's web site and I think you're right about the screws. Part # FA 3037 A is most likely to be correct since I just checked on of the original screws from my clips and it is a 24 thread count, which matches the thread count on the 3037 part number. When I look for the actual molding clip that matches those on my '64 I think that FA 612 (at the top of page 60) is the one. Is that the way you see it? The link to Mr. G's windshield clips page is here: http://mrgusa.com/pdfs/60-62wsclip

Hi SloSteve, With the help of Joe B. (JWB65) on this board, I was able to remove my rear window on my '64 Sunday evening. On my '64 I show 8 screws across the bottom plate spaced approximately as follows (starting from the center): 1.5", 8.5", 15.25" and 21.6125" (that's 21 and five eighths). Again, my numbers are from a '64, so I'm only assuming they're the same as your '65. The 1.5" measurement is from the *center* of the window, so if you lay out the measurements to the left, and then to the right, you should be very close to original. In the spirit of of measuring twice and drilling once - I would wait for Ed to come back with his information to ensure they are similar to mine. The new frame looks great. Good luck.

Congratulations Tony. The car looks great.

Paul, You might post the same question on v8buick.com. You'll get some hits there as well.

Its helpful to place often-used information in your signature line. That way it is automatically included in all your posts. Year and ROA member number are best. And then something about your car (such as color combination) can also be useful.

Thanks Jason, that's a great source and I've added it to my favorites. I think that one will work, the only difference is the the jacket color. The wires appear to be correct colors (i.e. light green and dark green). I was able to capture a screenshot of the source that you provided and I've pasted it below for reference. I also PMed Ed since he may have a donor piece. I'm assuming that whether I choose a new or donor piece that I'll have to cut the spade ends off my existing wires and splice in the new pigtails. Is that right? Is there a way to slide a new jacket onto existing spade connectors? Thanks for all the help.

When I purchased my '64 the 'cold' side of the water temperature sending unit wasn't working, which I then replaced. During removal I saw that the jacket was damaged and just barely hanging on. Although I was careful when I removed it the connectors from the sending unit, the jacket didn't survive. Does anyone know of a source for a new one? I've looked online at our usual Buick sources (CARS, OldBuickParts and OPGI) but without luck. Does anyone have a good source for these? I would imagine that it doesn't have to be a water temperature sending unit jacket. I would think that they are generic and that any jacket with the same degree of offset made for the same gage wire would work. Photos are below. Thanks in advance.

Here are a couple of photos that show the water valve mounted to the inner fender on a '64.

I spent some time this afternoon in the rear quarters trying to remove my horseshoe trim on my '64 without much success - I removed one in about two hours of work (and that was the easiest one to access). I've been using various small flat screwdrivers and various needle nose pliers (long nose, short nose, 90* bend, etc). I'm not really clear as to whether I need to get on the back of the clip and pull (without pinching it), or whether I need to pinch it from the sides, or top/bottom. I cannot tell whether the clip simply surrounds the mounting stud, or whether it is indexed into a groove or notch on the mounting stud. It would be great to know what tools and techniques others have used successfully. Thanks.

On my '64 I've removed the metal and plastic A/C and heater air ducts in the engine bay (refer to photos to see what I'm describing). I've got them cleaned up nicely and almost ready to go back in. Which is the correct sealing material to make a tight seal between these pieces and the firewall? On the OPGI web site I've found 3M Strip Caulk for $33 located here: http://www.opgi.com/riviera/1964/gaskets-seals/adhesives/CH25062/. Is this the best sealing material to use? Thanks in advance.

August update: The fuel line from the gas tank was fine and fuel came out easily when I tested it with a hand pump. I installed a new fuel pump and it started right up. Thanks.

There are three bolts that attach the motor to the firewall. As soon as the fender is off you'll see them right away. My WW motor works just fine. I'm doing the same thing you are - just taking things apart, cleaning them, and putting them back together. If you're going to do the same I recommend the chassis manual. I can't imagine taking on a project of any size without one.

39mm, I have a '64, so I'm going to assume its the same. Yes, I believe there are some tips and tricks beyond the chassis manual. I'm assuming that you've already reviewed the chassis manual, so I won't repeat those steps. Also, you probably know that there is the removal method with and without the fender. My experience is without the fender on the car (and it was still a challenge). Here my my observations: 1. You'll be reaching down/through your cowl intake to the linkage between the wiper motor and the transmission tube. If you're a large person you may not be able to fit your forearm through there. My arm just barely fit. 2. You'll be working only by feel when you go to disconnect the clip so it is helpful to have in image in your mind of how it is connected. There is clip that connects the round peg on the WW motor to the hole in the transmission tube. The clip's design is very difficult to discern in the chassis manual. 3. The WW motor's peg has a groove around it about 1/8 inch below the top and it has another groove across the face of it. (see photo 4) 4. The clip sits in the perimeter groove and has a tongue that sits in the groove across the face of the round peg. (see all photos) 5. The end of the tongue has a small tang on it. You must lift up this tang in order to get the tongue to slide back through the groove across the face of round peg (see photos 3 and 4) 6. Don't drop it otherwise you'll be very sad. It will be at the very bottom of your cowl. Because I didn't have the benefit of these photos when when I removed my WW motor I couldn't remove the clip by feel. I ended up removing the screws that anchor the WW transmission tubes to the cowl. Removing the transmission tube screws required the removal of the cowl cover (which runs between the two fenders and in front of the windshield). Freeing up the transmission tubes allowed me to wiggle the clip through the hole in the firewall while still attached to the WW motor. Once I had the tip of the transmission tube and clip in plain view I was able to figure it out and lift in the correct place. Let me know if any photo is unclear. I still have the WW motor out of the car and the cowl cover removed. I can snap more photos from different angles if needed. Good luck.

What year is your Riv?

Hi Tony. Where is is your timing at idle when running direct manifold vacuum to your distributor? I would think it is quite high. That's a lot of vacuum and detonation is a risk. I recently went through this on my '68 GS and I've finally got it dialed in. I circumvented the CCS device and I sent PORTED vacuum to the distributor rather than manifold vacuum. I realize that mine is a different engine (ie a 400 CID) but I have to believe they are largely the same. I would encourage you to consult your '71 chassis manual and look specifically at the vacuum circuit on a manual transmission configuration. If yours is like mine the manual transmission configuration will show ported vacuum to the distributor and it will omit the CCS switch. On my '68 400 engine I achieved best results as follows: - I circumvented CCS by capping all three nipples on the CCS and capping (with a rubber boot) the nipple for manifold vacuum from carb - I set initial timing to approximately 13 degrees (do not have vacuum line attached to distributor for this step) - I ran a single vacuum line from ported vacuum on carb to distributor. - I replaced my heavy distributor mechanical advance springs with a moderately looser pair. Please see note that that my vacuum advance at idle is exactly zero, which is correct. Ported vacuum advance should start at carb tip-in, but not at idle. Once I performed the steps above the engine was much more responsive. i know that my initial 13 degrees differs from the chassis manual specification but GM was trying to meet emission standards with the retarded timing configuration. Setting it to the values above is simply choosing performance over emissions, which is fine since theses are not daily drivers.

That looks great Jeff. Will you paint the assembly? If so, please be sure to post photos of the finished product.

The Rivowners site says there were 2122 of the KX '64 sold. (Stats are here: http://rivowners.org/features/Ev_Stats/productn.html). If one assumes that a little more than half didn't survive to see their 50th birthday there should be about 1000 of them around. A 50% survival rate may be very generous, so the real number may be much lower. I was lucky enough to find one of them. A link to a photo of the original window sticker is in my signature line.

I have an "86G" written on mine. However, mine isn't on the outside of the cowl like yours, rather, mine is on the driver's side hidden portion of the firewall (visible when the fender is removed and just below the washer motor). I guess that car number is possible, although I have no idea what the G would indicate. Also, 303 Rivs in one day seems high to me. GM only needed to produce about half that amount to get their build numbers for the year. Also, on my passenger side firewall hidden behind the fender I have an "A". A couple of other thoughts that come to mind is that it could be a date convention (3rd month, third day). It would be interesting to see if that fits with your fisher body tag build date. Another clue is the orientation of the 303. It is 90 degrees offset from the way a worker's hand would write while standing. It suggests to me that the number was written when the panel was in a vertical position and therefore not on the car frame. If that is the case then perhaps it tells something more about the Fisher body plant controls numbers rather than the Buick build plant.