Eric's.64.Superwildcat

Chris, Do you have a band saw in order to make the cut-outs for the console pieces? Or are you only installing it in the door panel and rear quarter?

Hi Moose. The TH400 transmission was standard equipment on the '64, '63 was the last year for the dyna-flo. If you were considering the 455 for performance reasons you might consider keeping your 425 (for all the reasons stated above + plus the fact that it was the standard transmission for your car) and consider adding the two four-barrel carb option. It was called the Super Wildcat engine. I've occasionally seen members of this forum and elsewhere put the needed parts up for sale as a unit (intake, two carbs, throttle assembly, valve covers, distributor, air cleaner). Also, the nailheads didn't go through '69. 1966 was the last year for the nailheads. In '67 Buick switch to the 400 ci and 430 ci engines, and added the 455 in '70.

Actually, joining the three separate wires at any point (including at the jamb switch) *does* make a difference. It will cause the the three separate light circuits (i.e. dome light, courtesy light, and floor light) to *all* turn on when any *single* switch is activated. This is different from the original design which had each switch control just one of the three lighting systems, and only the door jamb switch would activate all three. This is one of the reasons Gordon's service of rebuilding original door jamb switches is so valuable to the community. Chris, for original operation it is my opinion that taking Gordon up on his offer for original jamb switches (even if you don't have a core to trade in) is the most attractive option.

Carl, I noticed in your description that you installed a fiberglass package tray. I've seen comments in other threads consistently stating that the aftermarket package trays don't fit right. Was this your experience? I ask because it would seem that the manufacturer would want to correct whatever problem previous buyers have encountered and that the problem would eventually be corrected. Thanks

Fantastic!

Chris, where are they joined "prior to the switch"? If they are joined prior to the switch it must be a modification. Do you have a photo? Also, is your jamb switch the original switch or aftermarket?

Hi George, Although mine is a '64, I don't think a battery tray is available as a separate unit. I assuming that the battery trays are about the same on all of the first generation Rivieras. I know that I've never seen one advertised. On my '64 the battery tray is integrated into the inner fender well. The best way forward may be to sandblast and powder coat your inner fender well (if things are in good shape structurally), or to look for a replacement inner fender well if it is not salvageable. I just had my inner fender wells sandblasted and powder coated and I am very happy with the outcome. I just finished installing them today. Eric

I took mine out through the dash on my '64. It may be time consuming but the advantage is that its just straightforward disassembly. Take the seats out so you can make yourself comfortable while working and just take your time. While I had things out I got them all cleaned up and painted. Since I was in no hurry it didn't matter how many weekends it took.

I don't see a color matching problem with the tail piece. To me it looks like there are small eruptions (or pockmarks, I can't tell from the photo) in the trough on the tail piece that are not on main piece. If you look al the shouldered edges, which are smooth, the tail pieces looks great. I might try a soft metal wheel attachment on a dremmel tool to see if the eruptions could be knocked down. It may be that they are scattering the light causing the color and brightness to appear different.

Mine just arrived today.

I have a '64 black/black with original silver headliner and visors. I also would recommend Clark's.

Good catch on the shaved and filled trunk lock. Obviously it didn't matter too much because the car is now listed as sold at the buy-it-now price.

Doug, I was just looking at some of the 'before' photos I took during my seat recovering process. I believe the foam goes past and over the top edge of the seat back as opposed to being flush with it. Best of luck.

Hi Doug, I'm going through this right now. I decided to orient it so the text is right side up (i.e. you can read the text when the seat back is in its upright position). I decided that after fiddling with the new pad and noticing how it was formed. In my mind I had thought that Clark's would probably orient it that way, but that would have been just guessing. I really based my decision on the overall form and the way it made the listing line up. (The 'listing' is the extra fabric at the top can bottom).

I purchased a can of the Buick blue/green spray can paint from Classic Buicks and I'm happy with the color match. I have not yet used it on a high-heat portion of the engine - I used on the alternator bracket. I have several pieces that still have their factory-original paint and I am very satisfied with the color fidelity.

You forgot to put on your sunscreen!

Congratulations! Welcome. Send pictures! If you search this board for 'clock' or 'clock repair' should should find a couple of threads that can help. Chances are you can have the clock working with minimal effort.

Hi Ed, My '64 is factory black/black and I can tell you the door panels are not correct because they have a 4" speaker carved into them. If you subtract that modification, they look correct.

It looks great Jeff. This Riv is lucky it found you.

Although in '65 the dual-quad setup would have been stamped as the LX motor, as K denotes the '64 production year. There is a very good article on the topic here: http://rivowners.org/features/Ev_Stats/65gs/

Thanks Steve. Does anyone know the proper name for this fastener? It would help my internet search. Its good news that this part was used on a lot of other GM cars. Thanks.

I need help with a source for a broken fastener on my '64. I'm not sure what it is called so I've posted photos below. It attaches the shifter rod to the transmission linkage. it is a threaded nut with a bell shaped housing. It has two small reliefs, one per side, that allow it to index nicely to the transmission shifter rod. You should be able to see the relief and housing in the photos. When I removed the nut holding it in it just came apart in my hands. It is cracked in half I don't think it can be repaired. Thanks in advance.

Hi Ed, I believe the diagram is incorrect. But I hesitate to say that the diaphragms are reversed. I believe it would be correct to say that the vacuum line colors are reversed. For example, on my '64 the yellow and white vacuum lines went to the Outside & Recirculated Air diaphragm rather than the Heater/Evap diaphragm as indicated in the manual. The reason I make this distinction is that the text for each diaphragm that describes under what conditions vacuum is applied to each diaphragm is actually correct. So if one were to mentally swap diaphragms in the illustration then the vacuum rules would be wrong. I believe it is correct to say that vacuum line colors are reversed. If one were to mentally swap the colors then the illustration works. Just to ensure we're referring to the same diaphragms by the correct name; I believe that the Outside/Recirc is on the underside of the air duct on the far passenger side (and nearest the blower motor). I believe the Heater/Evap diaphrams is near the middle of firewall and easily visible on the air duct. I'm well into my AC/heating system and I have a lot of photos that were intended to help me put it all back together. I'm happy to share.

Ed, I think Paul was saying that the link that you posted no longer functions. I tried clicking on it but the URL appears to have been truncated.

Steve, Which replacement clips (and part numbers) did you and up purchasing? Was it MR. G's part or did you end up going through NAPA? If so, were they a suitable replacement for the originals? I'm about 6 months behind you for the re-installation of my rear window and I'd like to learn from your experience. Thanks.