JRA
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Hello Guys, What is the right carburetor model for a Canadian built, 1927 McLaughlin Buick, standard six? Thanks, JRA
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Hi Guys, What is the exact model denomination of my 1929 Dodge-Brothers two doors sedan. I understand it is a DA series, so it would be the model name SIX, is it right? Regarding the body type, is it Victoria or Brougham? What is the difference between these two bodies? What would be the price when new, for the case with dual sidemounts and wire wheels for this DA model? Pictures below! Thanks, JRA 1928 Chevrolet National, Touring 1929 Dodge-Brothers Six, 2 dr sedan 1929 Chrysler 75, roadster 1951 Plymouth Cranbrook, 4 dr sedan 1954 Willys-Overland Jeep, CJ3B
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What is the difference between the VICTORIA and BROUGHAM body models, for the 1929 Dodge DA? Thanks, JRA
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Adding some pictures. Note the front seats, splited, as other McLaughlin 7-P tourings for that period. Data plate was restored.
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Hello All, I am trying to identify a 1927 Buick and after intense research in the forum post I still need some help. The car is Canadian built. It is LHD. The firewall data plate shows: Model 27 29; Serial No. 117065; Engine No. 1713575. Checking previous posts, many from Dave Corbin, the numbers match for 1927 Canadian built Buicks. It seems to be a Standard Six, and it is 7-p open car, touring body, seems to be totally original. I read an AACA forum post from Dave saying Model Codes from Canada were different than US, but unfortunately Dave is no longer with us to solve such mistery. I understand in US, Model 27 29 is a 4 dr Brougham, but not necessarily in Canada. Who can help me on understanding McLaughlin model codes for Buick in 1927? Have someone inherited Corbin's database? Would Model 27 29 be Touring 7P car? Thanks a lot in advance... JRA
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Do you still have this cover?
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Lozrocks, Thanks a lot!
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I got confused with the pictures, because they seem to be different. The rubber spring insulators I am questioning if I should change or not are the one at the end of the spring leaves. These rubber parts, in number of 8 (2 per spring set), are inside a round compartment, that is divided in two halfs (top and botton). The rubbers in my car are hard as rocks, so I think they are not making any effect to bump the springs. Is this an indicator for changing them? Bill's picture does not seem to be of these "end of spring leaves" rubber I talking about. They seem to fit at the midde of the leaves. Regarding Lozrock's picture, I couldn't understandand how they are assembled. Thanks, JRA
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In every car show I see a huge variety of tail pipe tips. I always had the question about what is original for each decade. I see "triangular" shaped exhaust deflectors in cars from late 20's to early 60's. Could they be original? What as really used as tail pipe tips in 50's? Most of cars I see use these deflectors, were they factory options those days? Was this the only option? No straight tail pipe tip was possible? Did they really have such accessories during this period? If you go to any antique Ford store, they offer you triangular exhaust deflectors from model A's to 50's cars, does this make sense? I always questioned if this deflectors are a vintage car ethusiast fashion, or an original accessory or factory item. Thanks, JRA 1928 Chevrolet National, Touring 1929 Chrysler "75", Roadster 1951 Plymouth Cranbrook. 4 dr sedan 1954 Willys-Overland Jeep, CJ3B
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Thanks a lot Scott. According to the engine number, it is a 1929 car, so based on the messages above, I belive it is a model 78 Speedster. I was looking for a Touring or Phaeton, but now I realize Marmon used the Speedster body for their 4 dr open car in this year. Are real differences in theses denominations? Touring, Phaeton or Speedster? I believe in 1930 there is a phaeton body. JRA
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Thanks a lot TG. Good reference. I was browsing this model on the internet, and I found a 1929 Marmon, that belongs to Scott Deno in State College, PA. The picture below show a car exactly like my case, and very similar to the brochure. Would it be a model 78? See the picture at the link below. How can we differenciate a model 78 from a 68? Joyrides | Car of the Day Thanks, JRA
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Hi All, I am thinking to change the spring rubber insulators of my 1929 Chrysler 75. I read many different threads at this forum about this, and about the Steele products too. Once I am in Brazil and these parts are expensive in US, and they would arrive at prohibitive costs to my country (taxes are very high) , I was thinking in moulding these spring rubber insulators here. Does anyone have a picture of such rubber insulator? Does anyone have experience in replacing these rubber insulators with different solutions, rather than Steele products? Thanks, JRA
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Hi GreenSixteen I am out of town this week, but I will get more pictures and data next week. The body seems to be factory make, I would be surprised if it is custom build. Additional pictures below. Is the wheelbase for Marmon's measured in a different way? I got the info that some manufacturers used different ways of measuring wheelbase, so these numbers can be very confusing. I took the measurement from center front hubcap to center rear hubcap, straight line, is this the right way for this manufacturer? Thanks, JRA
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Hi All, I am struggling to identify a Marmon, pictures below. Some info about it, it was supposed to be 1929 model 78, but I have some doubts. It has horizontal hood louvers and cowl vent. Its engine number is N7657, and it is an 8-cyl Phaeton. According the Standard Catalog of American Cars, there were no phaetons for this model and year. I measured the wheelbase (center of hubcap to center of hubcap - not sure if this is the right way for this manufacturer) and I got approximately 118.5 inches. Marmon 78 is supposed to be 120".</SPAN> Suggestions?</SPAN> Thanks in advance,</SPAN> JRA </SPAN>
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Harry, thanks a lot. This book is a wheel alignment bible! JRA
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Hi All, I own a 1929 Chrysler, model 75 roadster, here in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. Now I need to do the front wheel alignment. I am strugling to find alignment data for this model. I have the original instruction book, but with no information about this. Any help on that? What is applicable for such car: camber, caster, toe-in, toe-out? The only info I got came from Instruction Book: "The distance between the wheels when measured in front at the felloe, approximately nine inches above the floor, and in rear from the same points should be equal or not greater than 1/8 inch." Unfortunately I could not understand this sentence completely. What is the "felloe"? Thanks, JRA
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Regarding the parts situation in Brazil, it the other way arround. Until late 50's most of the cars used in Brazil were from American auto makers, so the supply of parts from US to Brazil was very stable, in order to maintain the existing fleet. Late 50's was the moment the Brazilian government start to incentive the construction of cars in Brazil, so the main companies install factories in Brazil, as Willys, VW, DKV. And Ford and Chevrolet started to convert the assembly lines they had in Brazil since the 20's in full plants. The way used by the government to incentive that was dramactly restricting car imports, so american car parts supply became very scarce. Only in the 1990's became easier again to import such parts. Beacuse of that, I believe these old Fords and Chevrolets can be considered very resistent, once they have survived to a very long parts shortage and they are still here in Brazil running... JRA
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I can speak for my experience here in Brazil, every car show I go here from south to the north, beach area or country side, two cars are very common, so only resistance could explain their survival: 1928-1929 Ford Model A's and 1950 to 1953 Chevrolet sedan's. It is amazing how these cars have survived in our wet weather and road conditions, because until lates 90's was very dificult to import spare parts to Brazil. My 1928 Chevrolet and 1951 Plymouth seem to be rare in Brazil, when compared with those other cars. And I do not believe it is a matter of few imports back in those days, because Chevrolet assembles cars in Brazil since 1925, and Plymouth and Dodge cars were very popular here in 1950's. JRA 1928 Chevrolet National, touring 1929 Chrysler "75", roadster 1951 Plymouth Cranbrook, 4 dr sedan 1954 Willys-Overland Jeep, CJ3B
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Hi All, I bouth this pair of bumper guards for my 1951 Plymouth Cranbrook 4 dr sedan, but I am strugling to know if they are front or rear ones. What is the difference between front a rear guards for the 1951 Plymouth? I saw some pictures on the web and it seems rear ones are smaller in height, is this the case? Thanks JRA
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Hi Everyone, I own a 1929 Chrysler, model "75", and its distributor is a Delco-Remy model 659-B, what I believe is the original one. The car owners manual presents such distributor with two contact points. My car is operating very weel, no missing cylinder, but its distributor has only one contact point. When I open the distributor, I can easily see space for a second contact point, as you can see in the picture. I was told each contact point would deal with three cylinders, but as far I can listen well, all six cylinders are operating properly. What is the purpose of such second contact point? If the car needs two, what malfunction occurs when using just one? Thanks JRA 1928 Chevrolet National, touring 1929 Chrysler "75", roadster 1951 Plymouth Cranbrook 1954 Willys Jeep CJ3B
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Based on all these comments I did some tests on my car, and I believe vapor lock is the issue. I will install a heat shield on the top of the fuel pump, and I also intend to change the fuel lines for heat insulated ones. I just realized the fuel lines close to exhaust manifold are copper tubes, so this increses the heat in the fuel system. Any recommendations of heat insulated fuel lines? Thanks a lot, JRA
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Unfortunately my car does not have a heat shield near the fuel pump. The gasoline in Brazil has from 20% to 25% of Ethanol. About 90% of cars produced or sold in Brazil currently are FlexFuel (gasoline/ethanol mix in any level), so this is really an issue in Brazil for antique cars. I use regular gasoline in my car, but there is premium gasoline available here (95 octanes), do you think it would be a best choice? This premium gasoline is unleaded and with the same proportion of ethanol the regular gasoline. Despite the vapor lock, that may be a reality here our hot weather; the question I still have is: why does the car start imediately just putting the cold wet cloth over the ignition coil? I did this test already, when the car was hot, turned off the engine, and tried to restart 60 seconds later. It does not start, unless I use a new coil or use the cold wet cloth trick. Therefore, I think the vapor lock is not really affecting the issue. Maybe is the distributor condenser...something is overheating the coil and create all this difficulty. Thanks, JRA
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The car is in Brazil, so we do not have very cold winters. The coldest period im my town is from may to august, ranging from 46F to 64F. I cannot remember if this problem reduces during winter, but it is true it is more frequent in summer. And I think my fuel pump does not have a heat shield. Does anyone have a picture of this heat shield? This pump is relatevely new, it was replaced about 6 years ago. Best, JRA
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New points and rotor. The condenser of the distributor is also new.
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I believe the car is slightly more advanced than nit was in the past. In a recent work in the distributor, the mechanic set it up a little more advanced, and I feel the car much more powerful on running up the hills. This behavior is very different than in the past, when the car struggled in 2nd gear shift to move up hill, always requesting 1st gear. Now it goes very well in 2nd gear. The speed and power in 3rd gear seems to be similar as in the past. Could this overheat the coil, creating difficulties to start the engine when hot? I ordered a Optima redtop 6V battery to my car, to see if this helps. Do you have experiences using this battery? JRA
