Beemon

It was 85W-140

To be fair I did flush and clean when I swapped carriers.

Cheap shocks like the Gabriel classics tend to be rougher rebound than say a pair of $200 shocks. By nature, bias-ply tires are also more rigid than the radial counterparts. Your play in the kingpins may also throw the alignment off just enough to give you wheel jiggle going down rough road. It sounds like my car, but everything is tight except my steering box.

Too many variables to get right, much prefer one butterfly with everything up front. To get the individual ports to sync, you would need some type of MAP sensor, IAC sensor below each throttle plate and at least two TPM sensors to accurately feed all 8 cylinders.. then you would need to assume the butterflys all seal correct, and adjust both bank's idle position separately, fab up a wonkey throttle rod... with the front mount throttle body, it's one of each sensor feeding an ECU, then I could run a cable from the current throttle position to the throttle body. I know Hillborn is old school, but it's already been done to death. If I'm going to turn this into a final project, it's going to be a one of a kind. Maybe stamp WEIS on the top in the center, with 322 above or below that, or just omit the 322 altogether and have people ask "what the hell is that?"

I'm not sure how injectors would work under the manifold, form over function? I would want them top dead on the intake runner since the cylinder head port angle is so steep from the flange. Having them under the intake runners would most likely disrupt flow, rather than on top where they go with the flow. I'm looking to adopt the 5.3L LS type intake with the "hurricane" style swirl effect, and a 90MM throttle body. They are 324ci, so should be fairly similar. Looking forward to the project as well. The first example the professor used for introducing fluid dynamics was a basic venturi. Been there, done that...

3 times. The first time when I started working on the car, the second time when I swapped my beat up carrier for a good working one, and the third time right before I left for the university... and I might also add, I could have skipped dropping the straw and breaking a four finger grabber inside the differential the third time... got everything out, though.

Has anyone flow tested a stock 322 cylinder head and have the numbers lying around? This semester at the University, we're working with fluid dynamics in Solid Works and I'm planning on creating a EFI intake manifold for the final project. Any help will be greatly appreciated!

WHAT. Ive been using a hand pump to siphon the old oil out of the fill hole this entire time...

IF you can find them

Zinc isn't a myth, there's a reason why it was in the oil. But there are many other detergents and substances in modern oils that do equally, if not a better job than oils from 60 years ago. It's like people who say you need a PCV on a road draft tube car - it works great but under load when blow by is at its highest, there is no vacuum to pull the vapors and a road draft tube in that circumstance is definitively better. Too much reading on the Internet can get you into trouble quick if you don't use your own noggin, as I've come to learn anyways.

How old are your tires? Glad nothing else was damaged!

Where did the zinc question come up?

Good choice of purple!

Somehow in my infinite wisdom, I have forgotten my road draft tube at home. It's being put in a box and shipped up along with all the other stuff I've forgotten... in the mean time, I don't think it would be wise to drive the car without the road draft tube, so the PCV will stay put. Maybe I shouldn't have taken it off in the first place?

I am to assume my oil pan wasn't tapped, so you should have no issues. What's wrong with the original plug anyways?

My original engine has the 1 inch hex, my new engine has the parts counter plug. The parts counter plug does have a smaller head, but works.

AutoZone or O'Reilly. Any 18mm drain plug should fit.

5W-30 seems a little thin, the book calls for 10W-30 and 20W-50 given the ambient temperatures. My last oil change I went from 20W-50 for the summer to straight 30W so I can see the oil pressure.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1956-Buick-Roadmaster-Nailhead-V8-Sedan-Parts-Car-Factory-Air-Conditioning-/372045279738?hash=item569fa071fa:g:gLoAAOSwVJhZSH76&vxp=mtr Looks like most of the needed stuff is still there, minus the compressor. For $500, might be a pretty good investment for someone willing to upgrade.

So I just found this ad on Ebay for a 56 Roadmaster parts car with an original 56 WCFB and it has the same throttle arm as mine. This leads me to believe the throttle arms changed in 56. Pretty good deal for $500, I think I'll pass this on to Buy/Sell for anyone interested.

I used POR15 to seal my tank, too. Someone had claimed ethanol will separate it from the tank and plug up the in tank filter. I've got two years on mine with no issues and only feed the old girl E10.

Saw this on Ebay today. For $50, might be worth it to someone? Looks like a 5 bolt tranny, hard to tell from the pics. I would buy it but I've got no where to store it.

So looks like I left my ball peen hammer at home... good thing I brought my brass drift punch! It's a little rough around the edges... I lighty went around the edges of the carb base to get a base groove cut, and then used an exacto knife to cut out a rough edge. Still trimming, but should be good to go soon. I signed it because it's a one of a kind.

No, thankfully the walk down to the dorms from the top of campus is much more forgiving.

If it's like a 56, you have to remove the shock mount first, pull the shock out and then remove the shock mount from the shock.