Beemon

All of my weatherstrip is from Steele. Its an inch thick so I can just cut out the shape to work. The pieces in question are where the rear quarter window top meets the rear quarter window bottom and there's an almost triangle piece of stainless that connects the rear window trim to the rear quarter trim.

They're metal inserts that I taped to the window channel. Set time was pretty quick. I even did the doors tonight, tomorrow I tackle the rear quarter window. I have adhesive mohair to reline the stainless corner pieces, too.

Who needs a rivet or stapler gun when this red backed 3M tape exists? Seriously, I just taped the mohair into the vent window channel and it's solid. Did the same for the straight strips on the front doors. Now I just need to bend the rears and I can set my windows and be done with this ordeal. I'm shooting for Friday as rear seat install day.

Have you greased your front suspension?

Well this just keeps getting better... what's the point of putting 1956 Buick Century on my invoice if they're going to send me Super/Roadmaster parts anyways?

Its alright for now. I need to get the car moving by Friday so I'm going to tape the two ends together and just stretch the seal around. I think 6 inches will be safe to stretch out of ~15 feet.

Thanks for the link Willie. Unfortunately I'm at a point where I can't spend anymore money if I plan to pay this off with internship money. I will not recommend Steele to anyone after this.

Compression check within 5% of what range? A worn down engine can have equal compression but still not enough to fire off.

So new plan: I picked up 20 feet of 3M red adhesive tape. I'm going to run the tape all the way around the trunk instead of gluing it and try to make up those six inches. I can't really get 16 feet of trunk strip for free and I don't want to wait another week and a half to drive the car... so going to make the best of a bad situation.

Century will have a turned dash insert, it will say Century between the turn indicators and have four port holes. The Riviera designation is for hard top models. 40 series is the Special. You might be dealing with a clone.

I agree its recessed and out of the way, however how many times have you gotten in the way of the light?

This is what I've been trying to do, big sway bar and 58 aluminum drums. Both are hard to come by these days

I was assured there would be enough to trim to 1/2" excess to butt the ends together. Shame on me Also I've never heard of pulling any type of weatherstrip tight. It needs to flex and bend and stretching it is just going to make it want to rebound. In fact in my time of need I stretched it out as far as I could get it and ran it under hot water to soften it up and before I could work it around the other side, it shrank up again and pulled itself off the trunk lid. I'm going to try one more time, this time removing the trunk lid from the car, and hope to get it all the way around (though doubtful). If it were 1 foot longer it would be perfect. As for the hood to cowl gasket, I guess I'm going to have to trim it and try to drill holes in it. It must be for a roadmaster or something.

A little update: I am beyond livid. First the cowl to hood gasket is too long and the holes do not line up and now I've just discovered, after trying to attach the trunk weatherstrip, that it's too short. I'm not sure how these restoration vendors justify selling you the wrong product when they ask for year/make/model on their websites. I literally have no words. This is truly going to be my first and last classic car because I really hate this hobby. I like the idea of this hobby and I like driving and owning the car, but I have just been screwed over too many times. "Sorry, but our records show that this is correct for your car. Sorry for the inconvenience." Yeah... I'm sorry, too.

So I remembered today that 54-56 Olds small body has the same trunk lid as 54-56 Buick.. search 55 Olds trunk on Google, looks like they had a better trunk light than the little sheet metal tab Buick shipped.

Just noticed this, what goes here?

The difference though is with routine maintenance, you can see when the condenser starts to fail with heavy pitting on the contact set. And if they do need replacing, I can get them from the auto parts store versus waiting a week for a replacement ignition module.

Adjustment on the carb is for the idle circuit only and will not help you with driving. If it is the carb, then it needs a thorough cleaning.

I've had the worst luck with Pertronix and it's always left me stranded at inopportune moments. It works amazing for most but be weary that breakerless electronic conversions can fail and leave you stranded when you least expect it.

Spare key and a good friend to move it for you

Ken, I took the plastic end of a screw driver and pounded the top down until it cleared the pinch. Then I used soap and water and needle nosed pliers to pull it up. The old piece slid out without issue once it was clear of the pinch. I did not replace the actual window seal, just the strip.

Has the ignition system been upgraded or is it stock? What's your base timing set at? Dwell? And yeah, do the compression check. I'd hate to find out I just bought a nice looking car with a blown motor...

Yep! I told them to follow the holes and handed them the trim. They literally connected the dots, even while having the trim in their possession. It's fixed ho now, but just a bit annoying. Also here's the weatherstrip and a happy young man.

Can anyone see what's wrong with this picture? In anticipation, I installed the weatherstrip that goes between the door window and rear quarter window. What a pain in the butt.

Your dash switch probably isn't grounding to the dash if you push on it and it has an effect. You might try massaging those screws, but don't loose the switch under the dash.