mrcvs

Give me a few weeks and I will show you exactly what a 1917 Maxwell key looks like. My Maxwell is 35 miles from where I live and taking digital photographs doesn't go all that well for me sometimes.

I don't think you have it identified, as it is definitely not the key to a Maxwell from 1916 or 1917. Thanks!

This looks like some sort of tool. I have a 1917 Maxwell and the key looks nothing like this one.

I posted this on the assumption that a Tractor Supply battery was cheap, like $39 each. Well, since the last time I needed a battery, prices have escalated (Now $89.99 at Tractor Supply - each!). I did some research, and discovered that Optima makes a 6 volt battery that is $115.00 each on Amazon.com. It has good recommendations and lasts a lot longer than other batteries. I conclueded it was worth the extra money over the long term. My wallet feels the pain right about now...

I have a 1917 Maxwell and the batteries need replacing. It takes two 6 volt batteries. Any recommendations to the cranking amps necessary? Any particular type of battery recommended, or can I simply buy 6 volt batteries from Tractor Supply. The car is 35 miles away, and I cannot recall the batteries in there now, other than they no longer hold a charge.

I know some of the backroads and almost always use a printed map to find a route, as I really am less tech savvy than I should be...having said that, the route I came up with is indeed about 20 miles longer than the 35 mile trip. Might just have to take this approach....but was hoping to find a shorter route I was unaware of by finding it on the computer.

I have a 1917 Maxwell located in eastern Pennsylvania and I wish to take it 35 miles southwest. Unfortunately, between where the car is and where I want to take it is the Allentown metropolitan area. I searched for a route on mapquest and checked the option to avoid highways, but it still puts you on some very major state routes. Any ideas as to a site that will allow you to search for a route that encompasses only less-traveled back roads? The plan is to drive this on a Sunday morning when traffic is lighter, but, nonetheless, Allentown drivers will flatten you if given the opportunity. Plan B is to haul down on a flat-bed truck but this costs more and is infinitely less fun!

I am in need of the following: A 30 X 3 1/2 tire. It is a spare, so it doesn't need to be brand new, but I would like it to look fairly nice and hold air; A fan blade for this car. The original contains 6 fan blades and a band around the blades. Thanks!

One needed, in good condition, as a spare. The cheaper, the better!

My car is 53 yrs older than I. I am a 1970 model and my Maxwell is from 1917. Is there anyone else out there with a greater spread between your date of birth and the year of your vehicle?

Just a general question: I own a 1917 Maxwell, and the steering wheel is on the left side, which is designed for driving on the right. I looked at a 1913 Hupmobile, and the wheel was on the right, which suggests it was designed for driving on the left, as the British, and other commonwealth nations do, to this day. Other vehicles of the era of this Hupmobile have the wheel on the same side. This suggests a switch to the other side after 1913 and before 1917. When exactly did we switch, and why? I have driven extensively in Great Britain and I find I prefer driving on the left side of the road, and I prefer shifting with my left hand. Do others feel this way? I don't know what is preferential based on being left-handed or right-handed, and cannot make this distinction because I was born left-hand dominant and became a forced rightie. I did hear once that the reason why driving began on the left hand side is because it was a natural extension of the way horses were ridden, and, as most were right handed, if you were a knight that was jousting, you would want your opponent to your right to be able to better behead him. Please do comment, and feel free to support, modify, or refute my claims and theories.

A wire had severed coming fom the distributor cap and I fixed it...months ago. I've driven the car at least 50 miles since then.

Anyone have one of these that is fully functional that they want to let go at a decent price? I am in need of a spare, preferably with the clincher rim.

I have a photo of the window in its entirety, but it won't upload. If interested, please send me a message and perhaps I can e-mail it to you.

I took the old gal for a spin this morning--she's running wonderfully. In any event, I took some pictures of the rear view window--as you can see, it is bevelled glass. In old ads, the top is always down, so it is hard to tell what was originally there. I believe my top to be original, or a VERY early replacement, as the car's history from 1917 to 1946 is unknown; she was bought at auction in 1946, and stored until 1998; subsequent owners performed few restorative techniques to this car. Also, the fact that the glass is bevelled leads me to believe it is early. Any comments? This could also be used for those who are restoring similar cars. Or, maybe there were several options available at the time of purchase??? I am sorry the photos are not great. I had to take the photo with the top down. I cannot get the top up all by myself, and the car will not fit in the garage with the top up; consequently, the top often remains down.

Well, this was the only problem, so I never ordered, nor do I need (at least at this time) other parts. I spliced in a wire and affixed this to the terminal (without solder) as I could not locate my soldering iron. She runs like a top!

Yes, used the wrong word. My apologies! I have EXACTLY like that which you pictured. Do you already have that wire with the terminal attached to it available? If not, I will solder it. Thanks!

I had posted a few posts about this before. As you recall, I had come to a stop on 31 January, and didn't know why. I suspected points and/or the condenser. Well, everything looks good. Today was the first nice day in awhile, so I went over things and discovered what the problem was. The wire going from the distributor cap to the magneto had completely sheared off at the hook-shaped piece attached to the magneto. Does anyone know if I can obtain one of these new or NOS, or, if not, is it recommended that I try and solder this to the metal hook-shaped piece? I know this was the problem, as when I was able to temporarily hold this in place, the Maxwell started right up. It vibrated lose after 10 minutes and the car stopped immediately. Thanks!

It's too bad that Connecticut=TAXES, every which way you look. I grew up there in the '70's and '80's, but left due to high taxes and no jobs, even with a college degree! I feel your pain--the state forced just about every decent employer out, can provide no jobs for Gen-X-er's and beyond, and it makes up for it by high taxes. Would I live there if I could? You betcha! However, earning slightly above minimum wage in a high-priced area is NOT my idea of a good time. My two cents worth.

Any ideas on where I can find appropriate parts listed above?

I am still in need of a 30 X 3 1/2 tire. I have the clincher rim, but need the tire. It is for a spare, so it doesn't have to be perfect, but it should be usable.

Okay, so I charged up the battery and sprayed Instant Starting Fluid in the carburetor and, again, the same thing. It just won't start. There is gasoline going to the carburetor and the gas is fresh, so I really don't know what to do now. By the way, how did you all learn about what to do in these cases? I live in an area where I moved for my job, I have no friends to turn to for help, etc., so I have to figure this out myself, or else the car will sit forever. Everything I learn on my own, so I have to get it right on my own, or not. Thanks!

The backfire was like a pistol shot out the back. Starter will work and it turns over, but won't start. It would run in neutral, but in gear when you put a load on the engine, it tried to stall and eventually did. The carburetor did have fuel in it. When it stalled there was fuel running out of the carburetor to the ground below. Not at all unusual as the float will frequently stick. Does this help in assessing what's going on and what to do now?

I think I shall replace all 4 spark plugs and see what happens. Now that I look at them, they aren't all that new, and she did backfire, indicating it could be the spark plug.

Yes, I thought about the carburetor, too! I had rebuilt it last year, but I had had it adjusted last year such that the air/fuel ratio was perfect, and she was running real good, with the exception of, on some occasions, the float getting stuck and she will dump some fuel. A tap or two on the bowl will solve that problem. The float is cork and in good condition. I could pull this apart again, but I think it is okay. I am in Pennsylvania, between Easton and Stroudsburg.