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Does anyone know where I can get a speedometer/odometer cable end for my 1917 Maxwell Model 25 Touring Car? I have attached pictures of the damaged end, as well as the threaded cable and the Stewart Speedometer.<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

Hello all, THANK YOU for your responses. Okay, the carburetor is still a bit finicky, so I shall have to work on this. But, I did discover that the problem was crud in the fuel line that was impeding the proper flow of fuel once it started. I think, in hindsight, that maybe the original tank of gas did not contain ethanol, and, when I filled up on Wednesday there were materials in the tank that were soluble in ethanol and this flowed down the fuel line and caused the problem. I am learning as I go along... I attributed the problem to the carburetor, and this wasn't it. So, after a hard start (and I found that if I push the choke IN, it would start (as out was simply too much fuel) and I took her for a spin and she ran nicely. In the meantime, I changed the oil and I thought it hadn't been driven much recently, so it probably would be okay. Well, most of it was, but some of it was SLUDGE so it was good I did this. I think belonging to AAA would be a good idea in case I need a tow. 90% of the time she's reliable, but that other 10% really worries me.

The car described is a Maxwell. I have the original owner's manual and Dyke's automotive from 1918. Okay, so yesterday I went to start it and it started fine, but gas came pouring out of the carburetor. I had rebuilt it a month ago, which leads me to believe the problem is with the ethanol in gas now, as I just filled it up in Wednesday and it ran fine on that date, and a short drive a day later. I started to fiddle with the carburetor--sometimes jarring it with the head of a screwdriver jars the float and everything is fine. I did this, having fiddled with the adjustment on the underside of the bowl. When the weather is warm, I could start this car just fine, leaving the choke closed and with the adjustment under the bowl open 2 turns. I have it like this now, and the weather is now chilly. The starter works fine, but it just doesn't want to turn over, and I am running out of battery power. And, I can't seem to crank it on my own using the crank. So, what do I do now? Also, where did everyone else learn all they did about old cars? They are simple enough, so I should be able to figure out anything, but no one ever showed me anything at all, so I try and figure it out. When I bought this car, I was told it was always reliable and is good for 15 miles one way and back, but I can get it started one time, and I'm not always sure it will start the next time. In general, though, overall, it has been fine until yesterday and it won't start. I don't have the means to emply a mechanic so I must figure this out on my own. Many of you above suggested driving it often and far. So, what do you do if you break down 15 miles from home and can't get it started, etc.? Someone mentioned a 10/90 mix for petrol. What do you do and how do you mix this? I tried finding a source of non-ethanol gas and there is one about 100 miles away! I think it is sacriligeous that we do NOT have the option of purchasing real gas at virtually every service station.

Okay, so what would you go over and pay special attention to in order to make this vehicle reliable? I just tried to start it again tonight and it wants to turn over but just doesn't quite want to. And then I flooded it. I wonder if it is the recent cool weather. I haven't ever needed to start it on a day under 70 F. I think I might need to choke differently? Or maybe backing off two turns on the carburetor adjustment isn't quite right??? The gas is definitely on and the off-on switch is on. Gas does flow, etc., so I can't figure out why it won't start. Also, does anyone know how to start using the hand crank. I tried this several times and can't start it this way, either. I am learning as I go along...

Okay, how reliable do you think vehicles from the teens and twenties were in their heyday? I have a late teens vehicle, and everything is there and nothing is particularly worn out. However, having said that, I question the reliability of this vehicle and fear being stranded quite a distance from home with no real solution. It did stall once a few weeks ago a block from home. I pushed it home and it started just fine an hour later. It ran reliably since then. I rebuilt the carburetor, which was leaking due to a stuck float. Was fine up until this morning. Same problem (due to the junk in ethanol petrol?) I stopped it and adjusted the carburetor. Then I couldn't get it going again (but fortunately was at home). I have backed off two turns on the carburetor so that isn't the problem. Like I said, everything is there and nothing is particularly worn. But yet it isn't that reliable. What do you suggest one needs to do without spending a fortune to guarantee reliability?

Does anyone know where I can get a speedometer/odometer cable end for my 1917 Maxwell Model 25 Touring Car? I have attached pictures of the damaged end, as well as the threaded cable and the Stewart Speedometer.

Mine also has a fuel gauge behind the steering wheel in need of change. If you find two of these, please let me know. Thank you!

Thank you for your response. This explains why there isn't any consistency here. Okay, so I'll clean and overhaul the carburetor.

Yes, I am 99 % sure it is the float; it has not been a problem before, according to previous owners, except for with the last owner at the very end. My guess it's the ethanol in modern gasoline causing this problem. The fact that it is a Johnson carburetor and I lack experience with this is a bit of a problem. Thanks!

Any ideas on why a carburetor might leak gas extensively and when you whack it a bit with the head of a screwdriver, it stops leaking. Then it might be fine when running and leak when not running, or the other way around. There is no consistency here. I can't figure out how to get it so that it consistently operates without leaking, and not needing regular adjustment. It is a Johnson carburetor. I believe something might be wrong with the float. If so, are there any good websites on what to do and how to fix a carburetor if I need to diassemble it. Thanks.

Okay, something needs to change in this ridiculous state! This car has two headlights, one rear light, NO turn signals, mechanical brakes, etc. It is what cars had in 1917 and it would not conform to 2011 standards for inspection purposes. So, classic and collectible plates are really not an option. The collectible description on form MV-11 even says that cars must appear to be in 'show' condition. I think that if a car is over 50 years old, it should automatically qualify for antique status, and no additional questions asked by PennDOT. Right now, I can see I pay state income taxes to incur nothing other than headaches and hassles.

Okay, ultimately right now I have no plate and cannot legally drive this car anywhere. So, given the situation, what would you now do if you were me?

PennDOT is full of government LOSERS! Okay, so what would you do if you were me? They lost my original photos, said they need four more, and gave no explanation as to why my application was rejected. The notary told me even before I submitted my application that I would probably get rejected as the car was not in showroom condition. You call these LOSERS and they have no record of you even applying, they really don't care about you at all, and this is after waiting on hold for an incredibly long period of time. It's nice that my tax dollars are being put to good use.

Agree with you, Siegfried. PaDOT ought to be much more sensible. They want cars in new, showroom condition, which is often not the case! What do we do then to have a voice and be heard? This car clearly is not for daily use and completely open to the elements.

No, I never got the plates. The state ought to use common sense here. I was in Virginia for many years and am actively seeking employment there again, so it isn't like I'd be leaving just for the lack of Antique plates, but it's just another reason to dislike Pennsylvania (or like Virginia) even more. I guess I'm just a Virginian at heart, more or less.

This car is a 1917 Maxwell. It's clear that I wouldn't be driving this on a daily basis. Please see attached photo...

Anyone else had trouble dealing with getting antique plates in this state? Namely, they want cars that are in showroom condition, so if you have an antique vehicle in need of painting, they will give you a hassle. Why should I be required to paint a vehicle with its original paint to comply with the bureaucracy. And, I originally did submit four photos and they rejected my application saying I did not submit 4 photos. They lost them, but where did they go? Then when you call down to Harrisburg, they FAILED to record any data in their system, so there is NO record of an application for a title, the reason why it was rejected, etc. Yet another reason I'll ultimately bail out of this state and go back to Virginia. (On that note, does anyone have an original 1917 Virginia license plate they'd like to sell?)

JV Puleo--Relative to my Maxwell, this actually makes lots of sense! In 1917, serial numbers started at 113,206 and ended at 193,800. Mine is in the 169,000 range. If one interpolates this data, it suggests this car was produced around September of 1917, which is 6 months after the engine was cast. Thank you for your insughtful information!

Howard, What is the date on this attached advert? Thanks, Ian

My 1917 Maxwell contains '3-29-17-P3' on the engine block, which suggests that this is a date of manufacture of the engine block. I was talking with another Maxwell owner who owns a 1919 Maxwell and his has a date from Spring of 1919 (he could not remember the exact date). Additionally, I own an engine with 10-20-15-P3 stamped on it, which suggests 1915 manufacture. It seems too much of a coincidence that this is NOT the date of manufacture of the engine block, and it is assumed the date of manufacture of the car is of a similar date. Any out there who agree (or disagree) with me? Any ideas as to what the P3 means?

The outside diameter of the opening is 1 and 5/8 inches. Thank you.

I am interested in one for a 1917 Maxwell, if anyone has one for sale. Thanks!

Any ideas what a fair price on a Model 25 touring car would be these days? Unrestored but in running condition. Or restored a long time ago? Or newly restored in top condition?

Are there any tables out there that list serial numbers produced in a certain year so that, with a specific serial number, one can determine the year of their Maxwell automobile?

Hello, I am interested in purchasing an unrestored Maxwell Touring car or other similar make from around the teens (or basically between 1900-1920). I am interested in an unrestored car in running condition at the right price and not too far from Pennsylvania. Thank you!