mrcvs

As I am going through all this, I am thinking, what was it really like in 1930? I mean, what was the "average" driver like? Did just about everyone drive at one time or another, independent of age, gender, mechanical experience, or was it typically only folks in good shape, generally male, with mechanical experience--e.g., male, 20 to 50 years old, mostly? It seems like the extent one might have been stranded might have dictated this? Or, am I wrong? Now, they give out driver's licenses like candy, and most folks know how to put gas in the tank, and that is it! Relative to the rest of most of you on this forum, my automotive experience, is minimal, at best. Relative to the general population, I think my automotive experience is above average. That is not saying much at all! Or, conversely, it shows how little the average person in this day and age knows about cars at all. I think because the 'trend' is to not educate about cars, just because it is studying college courses that gets jobs or because cars are now mostly 'computers', and this is why most are learned about very little about cars...and why I am struggling with these simple matters. But, I am getting better.

Twisting of the choke knob...my understanding is that it should be 3/4 to 1 full turn open. That's where it was at. Perhaps turning it a bit each way provided transient improvement, but it is difficult trying to figure out where that needs to be, while retarding the spark and adjusting the throttle. I just don't have three hands...or two right feet (for the starter and accelerator). How do you do this?

If I spend $205 on this: http://www.brattons.com/product.asp?P_ID=1270&strPageHistory=search&strKeywords=carburetor&numPageStartPosition=11&strSearchCriteria=any&PT_ID=all Am I well-advised to use only ethanol-free gas, as I am not convinced that this ethanol junk they call gasoline these days isn't the cause of the problem, first and foremost.

Okay, make a Margarita for the wife, and she then wants to help. Used the screwdriver to bridge the gap, and a spark on all 4 spark plugs (e.g., the copper strap). What if I just replaced all 4 spark plugs? Isn't the gap supposed to be the thickness of a credit card?

Now that I recall, this was done yesterday with my Model A Club friend. It was me turning the key on and off, which is why I didn't recall it being done. Plus, you don't have to rely on a wife for help. Just do this with the screwdriver and pull down on the starter in the engine compartment. I learned this trick yesterday. Not as dumb as I look!

I tried pushing the metal straps as close to the engine block as possible. I got a spark on the first one, but the other three were clearly not close enough to generate a spark due to the conformation of the distributor. I re-read what you all wrote above, and noted that you meant to use the screwdriver as a bridge between the plate and the block. I have to ask my wife again for help for this one...which might require a little effort. Or, if one sparked, does it mean the rest are likely okay, too????? I think we went over this yesterday, especially since we had the spark plugs out yesterday and cleaned them up with a rag and emory cloth. So, may or may not be the problem. Given what you all say above, I am guessing it is the carburetor. I am guessing the carburetor was a problem in the past as the man I bought it from said he replaced the one it had when he got it with this one. Why else would he replace it?

Well, I don't know. Prices of Model A's have come down, but they still are not really cheap. For a car that is all there, no frame is perfect, only a little rust on the base of the two quarter panels, WAS RUNNING and sounded good when I got it, interior good, but could use painting in time, I don't think $8,000 was unreasonable. Where can you find one cheaper, other than a complete basket case? I looked for a long time, and found one locally. Maybe I could have found one for $500 or $750 less half across the country, but by the time I paid to haul it here, any savings would have been lost. Do you know of any that are better and cheaper at this time? If I got something later, it wouldn't be of as much interest to me. I actually would prefer to have a car from the Brass era, if I had my way. Besides, '50's and '60's cars are astronomically expensive these days. I am in Pennsylvania, since you asked.

Yes, I should have clarified. Perhaps I meant a fully restored car, mechanically-speaking. As long as the body/shell is complete and in 'decent' shape, I don't really care. I actually want chips in paint, etc., at least when I buy something, as it would easily end up that way not long after I own it. I even put a scratch in the fender resting a 5 gallon gas can on it when I put fresh gas in it yesterday...I did not even notice the small pebble at the bottom of the gas can. Speaking of gas...could it simply be that it is the ethanol junk I am using, that is the sole root cause of this problem? I looked for an ethanol-free station and there is one about 20 miles away. I intend to get gas there. I do want reliability, as, around these parts, unless you drive the most rural of roads, the location I live has so many 18-wheelers, and most of those double-clutching good old boys have little patience...

Yes, but I have forgotten to turn the gas valve open and/or the key on before.

Where do you recommend getting another carburetor? Ebay? Also, if I do get one, how do I know that it was not someone else's headache and I am not simply purchasing another problematic carburetor? Same thing about the distributor?

Okay, THANK YOU! Do you have a link to where I might find what you are describing? Part of the problem here, admittedly, is my wife chewing me out about this car constantly. I live in a subdivision and she hates even having them around. It was her choice of housing, NOT mine, and it is less than ideal for hobbies such as I like. Much better on 20 acres with barns and garages!

I do have a copy of Les Andrews' book. It has proved somewhat useful, but again, still no improvement in a year's time. I did not e-mail you because I thought it was a simple problem, but obviously not the case. Maybe since it does not have 'real' gas--could it be as simple as that? If it is not running by October, I will contact you, but either by then, it will be running...or not, and I had a fellow over from the club yesterday who has been doing this over 40 years now. Once this is running, I might just sell it and be done with it. I have two antique cars and have driven a total of 5 miles in them over the last three years. I think it may be a fallacy that cars in the old days ever ran good. I wasn't around then, but, if I had to guess, they probably did not run most of the time.

If the carburetor float or valve is stuck, how do I know that? I don't know if an aftermarket fuel filter is present or not.

Okay, so if you look on the Model A section, I am having one hard time getting this car running! I tried yet again with fresh gas this morning, and it wants to start, but just won't. I got frustrated with this car last year, and it has sat for a year. I bought it two years ago, in running condition, didn't see any problems as it ran without incident. I ran it 5 miles last year (ran it 5 miles since I got it!), and it quit on me the third time I ran it, and here we are today. Okay, the price on it wasn't bad--fully running Model A, some minor body rot, but the frame is good, the doors don't sag, it did run when I got it. Price was $8,000. Needs painting, old paint job is flaking all over, looks 'okay', not the end of the world! But, admittedly, I don't enjoy this car much if it doesn't run, not reliable, obviously. But I bought what I could afford. The thinking was, there are a lot of Model A's out there, you can get parts, they are supposedly easy to fix. I hear stories of folks making long runs without incident (several cars), or a simple roadside fix. Seems really hard to believe! I bought what I could afford at the time. With mortgage payments and stagnant wages, that even was a stretch. But, at least I have a car. However, I am losing interest VERY quickly!!! So, do you think it is better to not have a car, and hold out for years, even a decade plus, and purchase a car for $25,000, fully running, fully restored, no problems? I am starting to think this is the way I should have gone. At least the hobby would be a fun one instead of a frustrating one. I just don't understand how folks can come up with that sort of money with the economy the way it is. Maybe when the mortgage is paid off, but not now.

Gas flow is good. I thought so, and so did the individual who helped me with it. I have been able to get this car started before, so I know how to do it. I drained the tank, as it was running, then quitting, and it was thought that fresh gas would make it run better (the gas in there was from October or so). Now, I can't figure it out, it won't even turn over. Again, gas flow is fine. Before all this, it would run for 10 seconds and quit. With old gas, and with the help I had, it would run 2 minutes or so and quit. All I did was drain the gas and put fresh gas in, and I cannot even get the 10 seconds anymore. I am truly baffled.

Well, I had a friend from the Model A club over, and we went over the distributor, carburetor, fuel line, spark plugs, and timing. As well as the gas cap. It seems like it is now running but rough, and it will quit after 5 minutes. Now charging the battery and added 5 gallons of fresh (from October) gasoline to the 1 gallon in there, which wasn't as fresh. Much better than before, but still not 100%. At least I don't feel so dumb, as it wasn't so simple after all! If not able to get it running smoothly, I was told there is a paid mechanic from the club, and I guess I will hire him to get it right. Any other suggestions? The gasket on the gas cap is certainly not preventing a seal, as it is not brand new, and that is not the problem, as it is no different with the gas cap off or on. Anything else come to mind before I hire a mechanic?

Yes. The car IS started with the spark retarded and advanced as started, so this is not the problem. If one removes the gas line as it enters the carburetor, it flows fine, so this is not the problem. I will try again soon with the choke control knob one full turn open, but I think it was about at that point before. I have read about timing the engine, but this is too complicated for me to do, so I am hoping that is not the problem. Where is the fuel filter in the carb inlet located? I think I have the idle mixture screw is okay, I read about how to, and adjusted that last year. Or, since it still isn't working right, maybe that is wrong now, too???How do you tell if the float valve is working properly, if the carburetor is assembled--you can't see in it when it is assembled. I don't know if the carburetor was rebuilt or not. How do you tell? It is a Zenith carburetor. I think everything is clear as I had it professionally cleaned at a garage by someone I trust. I am somewhat unfamiliar with the Model A. But, I decided to get one because they are simple and reliable, so I did not think I would ever have so much trouble with one.

I ran the car last year and it quit on me. Will start, idle for 10 seconds, and then quit. Worked on carburetor myself, and it wouldn't idle. Had it cleaned at a shop, better than I could do, and still, the same thing, maybe idles a little longer, then quits. Seems to, when idling, want to step on the accelerator MORE, but don't have this ability, as the throttle is advanced. Don't know what to do. I followed this technique to start: https://search.yahoo.com/search;_ylt=AuXQWbPV5FrRtlfh946lz5KbvZx4?fr=yfp-t-901-s&toggle=1&fp=1&cop=mss&ei=UTF-8&p=how%20to%20start%20model%20a%20ford Okay, actually I reviewed it when it wouldn't start, and the only thing I did not do is step on the accelerator as the throttle was advanced all the way. Would this make a difference? There is plenty of gas, gas lever open, I am pushing the spark lever down when starting, key is on, etc. I don't know really what to do now. Would like to actually drive more than 3 miles, which is as much as I have driven this car since owning it for several years. Reason for driving so little is simply because I cannot ever seem to get it to start. Would try again now, but need to charge battery and leave for work. THANK YOU.

I have had this perpetual problem with the fan belts, which are leather, stretching to the point where the fan blade hits the radiator intake, which, I thought, is 'okay', as a band surrounds the 6 blades. This was okay until November of 2012 when, for some reason, I threw a blade, presumably because of this. I did locate another original fan blade. I tried a synthetic fan belt, and this didn't really work, as it was shredded quite readily, plus it was expensive. I would like to stick to the leather and have one or two made by John Knox left. Does anyone else have this problem, and what are you doing? Or, is it supposed to stretch and ride up against the radiator intake (this seems doubtful)??? In 2012, after 95 years of use, the original fan blades did seem fatigued, and I was aware of this. Somehow, when the blade was thrown, it only damaged the fan blade itself, which is now warped beyond repair. PM me if you have a fan blade you want to sell cheaply, as I would like to have another spare.

In response to #15 and #16, above: Howard, do you still want the measurements? If I were you, I would simply create a fabrication that you are comfortable with, as you will find the true dimensions to be a rather tight squeeze, unless you are below average stature. The upholstery is not leather, and I don't think any Maxwell's had leather upholstery. I would describe it as a canvas base coated with a rubber or rubber-like material.

I will get the measurement for you, of course, but you might be closer than you think. The distance is much closer than you think. I am not a big individual, and even I find it easier to get in on the passenger side and slide myself under the steering wheel rather than getting in on the driver's side. It is a tighter squeeze than one would find today, but I would guess most folks were much smaller in 1917 than today.

Okay, will try and swing by there later next week. Might be able to do so next week. I will give it a try, if I can get into the barn over the winter When you state you want the measurement from the bottom of the steering wheel to the top of the seat cushion, I assume you mean the shortest measurement??? By the way, the seat cushion is definitely original.

Okay, will do. But give me a few months to do this, as my Maxwell is currently in a barn 18 miles from here and I don't get out that way but every 2 or 3 months. Thanks!

Yes, it was in Massachusetts until I bought it several years ago. History prior to 1946 unknown. Bought at an auction in that year for $27. Moved to a heated garage where it sat until 1998. I am the fourth owner since 1998.

I didn't think it would be a problem, but just wanted to make sure. But, draining it yielded a liquid that looked like coffee (rust) and, I thought to myself, this can't be good...