Deanoko

I want to remove the dash cap for another project, but it looks like I need to disconnect a larger black jacketed wire running from the photocell to the amplifier under the glovebox. Does it just pull out of the amp or is there more involved? Obviously don't want to force something. Thanks!

More pics plz

This has gotten to be a trunk topic and not a "post photos of your Riviera" Too bad we can't label it as such, or move this part of the thread. Here's my 64...

Thanks. I ended up sourcing them on line. They aren't Buick, or even GM specific. Came in packs of 4 so I may be using 2 tower clamps at the firewall which would probably be easier to tighten back behind the engine anyway.

Also if someone has a source for correct logo'd heater hose that would be helpful. I have dood USA stuff but there was NCRS level hoses that would be even better. My current installation has 2 red 5/8" hoses running from the engine to the heater control valve and heater core. That's probably not correct...

Which would be which at the firewall?

BTW, I di have the correct spring wire tool so should be fine on the install. They are also used on my 1958 Chevy.

Thanks guys for the informative info! I have USA hose so corbin spring wires should be fine. Classic Industries has them for $1.69 ea. I have not ordered them yet, if someone here has 6 of the 5/8" ID variety they can get them to me over on the West Coast (97225) for a reasonable $ number.

I'm trying to make the most faithful "how it came off the line" 64 425 4bbl engine bay. I cannot find any info as to which style heater hose clamps were used, the tower style or the spring ring? I know the radiator hoses used the tower style. Thanks.

By contrast, the Goose never climbed high enough to get out of ground effect. As I recall it was just supposed to be a high speed water taxi request, but Howard "accidentally" (yeah right!) took it airborne for a short jaunt. 5 years earlier and it might have made a difference.

I was referring to the British Aerospace bizjet. Next time find a Lear, "Slow"tation or G Something for USA kinship.

Doesn't that need a British car in front of it to match? 😉

I've got a 65 401. The stampings on the front web frame are LT 316 5H928715 Is there a way to tell if it's out of a particular model of car or a counter exchange or ??

Saw this nice 65 GS at our Wednesday Cruise in.

Latest stage of my 64 425 build. Getting there... I have some original Buick finned valve covers so these stamped ones are just placeholders. The rest of the car has already been pictured. Ha.

Yeah, good question. I am planning on mating the 64 425 to the 65 switch pitch trans. Anyone know if that's going to be a problem? The carb and kickdown linkage will transfer over from the 65 401. I'll tackle any jetting issues separately.

Thanks all. I will definitely have help. 1 or maybe 2 extra bodies. I have installed the oil pressure sender, so that's good. Leaning toward leaving the trans in place. I will raise the car back up on the lift and see what tunnel cleanaces I have to refit the bell housing to block.

I'm going to be swapping a fresh rebuilt KW code 425 into my 64 Riv. It currently has a 65 401 with matching switch pitch trans. I'm wondering if I should leave the tranny in place and just remove the engine OR remove both 401 and trans and do the trans swap over out of the car? I have a cherry picker, 4 post lift and 2 engine stands. Assuming I will remove the hood as well. I di have an Oberg tilt lift which will tilt the engine (+trans?) as far as I need to. Any advice appreciated.

I get a frowny dead face... 3 hours later - works now...

I used to stop for jet fuel in Salina, going from East to West in my Navy jet. Marshallers in hot pants and a free steak...

Can't unsee that...

Well, when provided with the tale, he was adamant that they would never do such a thing. I think the spare tire pressure check was a tie breaker. One had 9psi and the other was to factory spec. Ha!

No, a wive's tale. I asked my friend who has judged NCRS for 42 years and he said they would never do that. They judge 4511 points for a perfect car, which equates (is converted to) a 100 point score. There is a maximum of 20 points iff for dirt, which, if that's all they found wrong, would be a 99 point car. He did say he has measured tire pressure in the spare, but only because the car is judged as being road worthy. He only judges 63-67. He said that in the later cars they plug in an OBD2 and read codes, which he thought was a bit much.

I will probably source some washer base hex head style (?) bolts for the timing gear / water pump since they can be seen, but the rest I will live with. PS, the Corvette judging guys mostly know it's BS, but they've dug themselves into a hole. There are date coded things and measurements of overspray on parts you just shake your head at. I've learned a lot of it, but still find it fascinating the level of detail to be strived for. C2s (63-67) only for me.

I have been a concours 'd elegance judge for about 10 years. The only guys that get that anal about it are the NCRS guys who have a 215 page book depicting every last detail of their beloved Corvettes. For our other teams, we are looking for obvious hardware store off the shelf items, as negatives but not specific bolt letter codes. The fact that these will be painted with the engine will be helpful.