MikeC5

Do you really have to apply much pressure if they are bendable? I should have mentioned these are rubber stems and seem pretty stiff.

The previous owner of my car ('25) had purchased new tires and tubes but the tubes have striaght valve stems and cannot be forced through the hole in the disc. They interfere slightly with the brakes while rotating and it makes adding air on the rears a bit tedious. Are proper tubes available or some type of adapter fittings?

Thanks for the tips on paint. What kind of spray gun do you use?

Cool. I like the black fenders and 'color of your choice'-look. That's probably what I'll end up doing too. Good luck on the ring/wheel.

Nice looking machine. Is that a factory color?

Thanks. The coil is currently working but the insulation on the wires under the cover looks very deteriorated. I probably should have left it undisturbed...

I'm trying to get my '25 engine running properly (it hadn't been started since 1948 I as told). I rebuilt the carb (even sprung for a new float), adjusted the valves, rebuilt the vacuum tank, verified good compression (50-55 psi all). The engine starts easily with hand crank (running on battery). Vacuum measures between 18 and 19 inches at brisk idle. The problem is that it will stall unless I leave the mixture control enrichment on (maybe 1/4 of its total rotation). Even with the adjustment screw turned down all the way it won't stay running. I let it warm up for 10-15 minutes and I was able to back off some but not all or it would stall again. I tried tapping lightly on the carb body in case the metering valve was stuck but it didn't change anything. Any clues? One thing about the carb, I did not have (or make) the tool needed to take the metering valve apart. I soaked it in lacquer thinner for a day and sprayed it out good but? Any clues would be welcome..

Anyone know what the primary and secondary resistane values should be for a '25 coil?

I was going to remove the coil assembly on my '25 in order to take a look at the distributor advance weights/springs. The coil chamber is held on with slotted screws but the coil chamber body leaves no room to get a screw driver in there. I was hoping to do this without removing it from the engine. Any tips?

Thanks!

Yup. Or remove carb from engine...

I disassembled the spare WP and notice the impeller looks different than other Dodge WPs I've seen photos of. Although I haven't verified it, the pump looks like it will bolt right up to the block so I'm pretty sure it is a DB pump. Is this a later style impeller? (than '25)

Finished Product.

I have seen the rubber tip kind before although not in a long time. I machined up a steel plug and welded it to the spark plug body tonight. I just need to get the tap tomorrow and finish it up. I'll post a pic when done.

Oh and I forgot to mention, I hope your tour is enjoyable and goes well!

Hi MR, It's funny, the plug I took apart is also a C-4. The thread is 7/8-18. I have had no luck in locating an adapter to go from this thread to 14 or 18 mm 'modern' spark plug thread. I would be interested in where you procured the fittings. I think I may end up just tapping a 14 x 1.25 mm hole (spark plug tap) in a steel plug and then welding it to the C-4 body.

Thanks.

I was going by the bore tolerance listed in the Mechanic's Instruction Manual. I just took a few measurement and have not yet checked for taper. It did make a lot of tappet clatter when running. I set them to 0.008/0.010 cold just to be safe.

Thanks Dave.

I cleaned things up and see no obvious cracks. The head was a little bowed (about 10 thou at the middle) so I'm having it magnafluxed and planed. I also discovered where a lot of the upholstery went- in the water jackets of the block! Good thing I didn't run it long. I also found the valve clearances were huge (like 1/16" or more). I'm amazed it still ran like that. After adjustment I measured valve lift and they all came in within .30 - .305. It also appears to have aluminum pistons. Were the orignals cast iron on a 1925? (car no. 323967)? A few measurements on the bores were within spec., no ridge observed at top of cylinder. The walls look pretty smooth but no cross hatching can be seen. Does this sound normal for an original engine?

Any ideas on how to adapt a 'modern' thread compression gage (14 & 18 mm) to the 7/8-18 spark plug thread? I took apart an old spark plug and the threaded part that holds in the insulator appears to be 24 tpi (.8" diam at thread peaks). Maybe this size is more adaptable? I haven't had any luck finding fittings to work with the 7/8-18. I may have to weld something up to the spark plug base?

I believe Myers Early Dodge or Romar sells them. ROMAR Home Page Myers Early Dodge

I was looking at it today and agree it really doesn't look right in the corners. You have quite a stable of cars there!

Thanks Carbking. Makes sense. I'll check the vent.

Should the float bowl lid have a gasket? The gasket kit I bought didn't have one. It would seem like there should be one there.