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TomP

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Posts posted by TomP

  1. Thanks Scott, that put an interesting twist on it, possibly Dodge cab with PE hood and front fenders, 37? wheels and dump box, don't know what the frame is until it's home.

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  2. Received some more photos before it went into the container, perhaps someone can shed light on it's make-up. The belt line looks to remain level with the doors aposed to sweeping upwards as it goes around the back corner but I've not seen one's that's like my photos. In the first pic top L/H does the beaded up-stand behind the 'B' post look familular?

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  3. Not sure if this will help but with the lack of replies I'll have a go. I am working on a PD with side mounts and I am of the opinion that the difference in the wheelbase only affect the hood/fender dims. if I'm wrong it will bring the experts out of hiding. The PC w/b 107" against the PD w/b 112" so there is 5" between the 2 models,

    post-72422-14314280786_thumb.jpg

    Photo 1, 7/16" x 20 UNF Photo 2, 1/4" flat x 1 1/8" tapped hole 5/16" from end 5/16" x 16 UNC Photo 3, 2 1/4" thread

    The side panel of the hood just below the hinge is 45" on the PD, a lot of guess work here but hope it helps.

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  4. post-72422-143142793591_thumb.jpg

    Dave hope this helps, 1933 Plymouth PD

    Plant is Detriot serial # 2,000,001 to 2,186,951

    RHD Rumble Seat Coupe 9/6/33

    Motor PD 1001 to PD 195997

    Shipped to Johannesburg 9/12/33

    There are 2 ways of ordering a build card, a direct copy or a copy with decoding

    http://www.chryslergroupllc.com/company/Heritage/Heritage%20Documents/Chrysler%20Historical%20Services/Build_Record_Order_Form.pdf

  5. POC have advised me that the serial No. on the title is an engine No. with 34 tacked on the end, is it known if Chrysler Historical can cross ref engine No. to serial No.? (I have a copy of the 1986 title)

  6. Thanks for your input Scott, can't wait to get it home to find out what it actually is, interesting on the 10 & 12 spoke artilleries my PD was originally purchased with 16" artillery but now has correct 17" wire wheels. Think my PE started out as a 4 door Sedan and had a dump box prior to 1986, hope I can get the serial No. from the frame, time will tell.

  7. You could try here....http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-washers/=u2w0js

    Click on the countersunk style.

    You may be better going for their Corrosion-Resistant Silicon Bronze, they are listed under Brass, these are flat washers which will need dishing as the ones you want are different to the countersink washer, you need a coned washer without the return. My thought is to drill a hole in a piece of hardwood about 1/16" smaller than O/D and drive a conical punch into the centre. I think the originals may have been nickel plated ?

  8. Good looking truck will watch this with interest, is the serial no. also stamped on the frame or can Chrysler Heritage trace serials from engine Nos. through their microfiche files. For sure you wont find this sort of information from any of the magazines.

    post-72422-143142741563_thumb.jpeg ​I got this one sitting in Houston waiting to ship. knobless the hinges are in the right place for you, at the back.

  9. Must apologise for the Senior moment in the post above, the mentioned undercut is not on the grommet, it is produced when the grommet is fitted to the main bracket on assembly, in fact it is possible to split the grommet should you try to remove it from the bracket. Regarding the type of material on cleaning the surface I found that at some time a mixture of rubber and fibreglass mating had been laid-up to reinforce the degrading material underneath.

  10. I'm a retired tool maker, did it for 40+ yrs, on this grommet there is a massive undercut which would mean the mould would have to be slit and have a removable loose piece. Then of course they are handed so you would need 2 moulds and then there's the material although it is rubber based it has what looks like glass fibre strands, a material I have not seen before. It may be worth while contacting the company that 1935EB used to have his vulcanised rubber mounts remade by.

  11. Hi Mike

    1. Straight cut edges.

    2. 21" between holes, 27" to outside giving a hole of 3", in fact they are 3" square.

    3. The hole starts 3/4" below the bend where the weather strip goes between the body and the valance.

    4. Suggest you look on first decade to see if ply33 list a supplier, some body must do them??

    Hope that clears the muddy water.

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