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TomP

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Posts posted by TomP

  1. Thanks Scott for going to all that trouble, much more info than I had hoped for ideal I can put it back to right now (today). There is a notch in the underside of both the X members on the R/H side it's just the angle that the shot was taken.

  2. Great reply as always Scott, much appreciated.

    Next major problem to resolve is on the rear of the frame where the diagonal cross members join the outer rails either side of the diff, I could do with a photo of each side showing the lightning hole pattern . Most of the holes are 3"Ø others are 2.5"Ø and elongated 3"x 2"? My intention is to plate the holes and come back to near original, ( some butcher fitted a V8 along the way)

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  3. Thanks for your comments Scott you have made it all very clear.

    Another question for you, on my PD there are 2 timber bearers between the body and the frame but nothing on the PE, if there should be bearers on the PE any idea of what type of timber they would have used?

    Thanks

  4. Thanks gents, missed this post, my PD was factory fitted with side mounts but along the way pre 1970 the covers got lost. Next between 1978 and 2002 the side irons went the same way, the photo below was taken in 1970 showing the irons and artillery wheels fitted. I shipped in a load of parts end of 2014 with all the bits to complete the PD and enough to give me a head start on my PE Pickup.

    post-72422-143143049029_thumb.jpeg

  5. Thanks for your replies, Scott your entry higher up the thread makes much more sense now, do you feel that it might be easier to find 35/36 rims and hub caps as I have neither. I do have a surplus of 33's but they are wrong for the 34 project, think there could be 3 spare once I've sorted the 6 I need for the PD. Thanks again.

  6. I think I have confused myself with the correct wheel rims for a PE can you please confirm which is correct, I only ask because in a recent post on the Dodge forum oval hole artilleries were offered for sale.

    post-72422-143143021989_thumb.jpg

    Appreciate your comments, I will be needing 5x at some time, thanks

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  7. Hi Guys,

    I've attached a few pics of where ther serial number is stamped on my car. Once I found the indentations of a few numbers ( it was lightly stamped ) fine wet and dry paper very lightly rubbed revealed the rest of the numbers.

    Cheers

    Ian

    ​On my PE unfortunately no numbers in that position, the cab and bed should come off in the next week or so let's see if that turns up anything.

  8. Don't give up I also have a 33 PDX Detroit build for a Johannesburg order, the previous owner had misplaced the serial plt, Jim B. at POC had it on record, I was able to get a build card and after that I sent a letter to Classic and Performance Cars Africa. They posted it under letters to the editor and a reader had recovered it in 1970, the photo is his Pontiac leaving Bloemfontein bound for Durban 500 miles east.

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  9. Regarding the frame # there is no ref. of it on a Plymouth Build Card, my thinking is that on the track once the engine was installed, that # would be stamped on the frame in 3 places, close to the 2 front running board bracket and over the rear wheel arch, all on the outside of the left hand rail. The engines were picked at random from a batch but the body was fitted the serial # were fitted in-sequence, this is why Chrysler Historical can only issue build cards from serial #. Unfortunately although they have the information they do not have a cross reference in data base form to issue build cards from engine #.

    The last set of splash panels was in 2004, 3500.00 back then.

    I know you said they were expensive but that's big bucks, I shall make both sets for mine, I have another toe board to make LHD but it's not much different to the RHD I made back a while.

    post-72422-143142980135_thumb.jpg

  10. Found out today that the shape of the cowl is pretty much the same profile as my PD hood, only had one side of the hood and no rad shell. thing that's puzzling me with the PE/PG being the last of that body style? Why would the hood profile have been changed so late in the day. Think I'm right in saying that the PJ was a retooled body design.

  11. Hi, any chance of measuring the opening where the windshield fits , Im having a problem identifying my cab but there's a lot on yours that looks similar even down to the very small cut-out around the column , also mine has the front fixings to the frame close to the 'A' post.

    Thanks

  12. Hi Dave, happy new year, if you look at post #49 photo 3 my front fixing is along side the 'A' post, it has the single bracket in the centre of the cowl for the radiator supports and just a very small cut-out for the steering column. Do you also have any idea how much clearance there should be between the firewall and the block.

    Thanks for your help.

  13. It would help me if I had some photos of a 34, 1- 1/2 ton cab relating to the cut-out for steering column and the front fixings to the frame. I have found that the cowl vent is exactly the same as a PD Coupe. N C Components are looking at the screen surround as well.

  14. While researching the 1934 PE range I was directed to one of JB's Allpar articles which mentioned " An interesting model available to dealers at announcement time was the Flame Cars, so named because of their burnt orange color (the factory called it Carrotee No. 3). The cars were unique." Just wandering if anybody out there has any photos or prints of these cars, https://www.allpar.com/history/plymouth/1934.html Thank you and good fortunes for 2015.

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