Bullfrog_eng

At least your four legged off-sider is getting his share of rest, I see. What overdrive did you use?

Thanks again for the gasket advice. I thought I should let you all know the outcome, which is that the gaskets were only part of the problem. I made a number of gaskets of various thicknesses, widths and types before I convinced myself that I had the optimum, but still the lens and rim would not fit correctly. I should mention that the headlights came from a friend many years ago. They had previously been fitted to his DeSoto, so we did a swap so that we each ended up with the correct lights. He is no longer with us, so I could not now query him, but I got them in a dismantled state. They had been replated and although not perfect, I thought they were OK. So, the first revelation was that I was working on the one that did not fit, the other one went together quite well after a bit of fiddling. That meant that I now had something to compare the crook one with. Well, the band that holds the rim to the bucket needed bending to get it to fit properly as well as grinding of a couple of “lumps”. It was obvious that the rim had been worked on when the chroming was done, although the visible side looked OK. I eventually realised it was not quite round, the lens was not seating fully. Some bending and twisting eventually got that OK, without damaging the chrome too much. But it still did not fit properly. After lots of measuring and comparing with other rims, I realised that the part of the rim that contacts the lens was not uniform and in places was not allowing the lens to sit far enough into the rim. Using another headlight bucket I had, I worked out a way to mark the rim with a wide marking pen to determine what parts stood proud. By then I had worked out that I had another good spare rim (that needs chroming), so had nothing to lose in attacking the crook one with a flap disk on the angle grinder. This of course means that there is no chrome on the lip that contacts the lens, but you can’t see it and I coated the bare metal with some lacquer I had on hand. I will get the spare chromed eventually and if the one I have fitted gives a problem in the future, replace it. So it’s finally gone together OK. Man, that was a frustrating job spread over a couple of weeks, very glad it’s behind me. John

Thanks Fellas. That has given me enough to point me in the right direction. John

I seem to be making hard work of this, so time to ask. Trying to assemble the TWOLITE headlights. I assume there should be a cork gasket between the glass lens and the reflector. How thick should it be. Should I use strips or a circle of cork that extends out into the headlight rim, to restrict the movement of the metal ring that clamps the rim on? Any suggestions appreciated. John

If you want to check for leaks, put some diesel (say half gallon?) in the tank, it will seep out of places that petrol/gasolene won't and leave a slightly oily mark, easy to see. Slosh it around and leave for a day or so. If you really want to get excited, add a bit of pressure (not too much) from an air compressor. Just put a nozzle into the tank and seal with a bit of rag, I does not have to be absolutely air tight. That seems to atomise the diesel and any leaks will show up quicker. Have used this many times when making tanks for 4X4's. John

Ian, condolences from me as well. John

Thanks, great photos. You never stop learning stuff. John

Wow, now that aftermarket gauge looks great. I never thought of that as an option as I have never seen one (of the correct period), did not know they existed. Only ever seen 1960s and later which look wrong to me on a 20s car. Perhaps I should keep my eyes open. Thanks fellas, food for thought.

OK, so it's too hot in the shed to do any more on the DA (41 deg. C/106 deg. F) so time to sit here in the cool and ask something I have been thinking about for a while. I do not have a temperature gauge (cos they didn't have one) and I don't really want to fit one permanently (cos they didn't have one)! I have had the engine running and used a laser infrared thermometer to keep an eye on things, but that won't be real handy when I run it on the road. I am happy in the long term running without a gauge, but only after I have confidence that all is OK. I have thought of using an old bulb type gauge (ie. not electric) for the time being, but wondered if there was anything else. I would have thought there would have been some sort of wireless thing by now, but I have not found anything. What do you other blokes do? Thanks, John

Had a similar problem with my DA some time back. From memory I used a Valiant (slant six) fan. Not sure if they are the same in USA, but suspect they would be. They only need minor modification to fit, again, from memory, centre hole bored out slightly, bolt holes elongated slightly. Could not find an original one to use that was not also cracked. Also discussed at Some clues there for you as well. Good luck. John

Thanks Doug, best wishes for Christmas and New Year to you and all the other "Dodgey" people reading this. John

Ian, no you won’t, that honor will go to me! Now I know that this post is not really directed to me, because although I do contribute from time to time, nothing like some of you blokes, both here and overseas and I find it very inspiring to see what you are doing, the problems you encounter and your solutions. For example, the brake spring pliers, never heard of them but ordered some yesterday. Don’t need them at the moment, but they will come in handy even if I never use them. The DA is coming along nicely at the moment, but I will wait till it is on the road before I write up some sort of a story which may or may not be of interest to anyone else. You see, there were no computers or internet when I started. From memory, to keep records, I borrowed a bit of rock and chisel from Fred Flintstone. Anyway, thanks everyone for the help and inspiration, keep safe and Merry Christmas to you all. John

Thanks for the info. Don't need gasket set at the moment but like to keep a record for when I do. Have dealt with Auto Surplus in the past, but a long time in the past!

Looks good. Who supplied the gaskets Matt?

Good to see the photos, bugger about the crack. I rebuilt mine using a Glenn Smith housing some years ago. From your photos, it looks like I made the shaft a bit too short (which I was starting to suspect), so will need to revisit this some time.

Matt, will be really interested in the switch rebuild. Did mine some years ago and can't really remember exactly what I did. I have only just started using it and it sometimes the switch does not work. I suspect I have not got the length of the shaft quite right. John

Yes I am, it's been a long time coming (but that is my fault of course!)

YOU BEAUTY, SHE RUNS!!!!!!!!!!! Started the engine three times today, was a bit reluctant for a while, but after fiddling with carbi and timing, it got easier to start each time. No water in radiator yet, so could not run for long, but long enough to be satisfied that all seems OK at this stage. I now need to fill the radiator so I can give it a longer run and get it running better still. Valves are a bit noisy, but fine for the time being, will reset them after I have run it for a bit. I am a pretty happy fella tonight, so thanks to everyone for the advice and encouragement. John

Did not explain this very well. When I got the engine it had the head off and was a mess. That was 50 years ago, and it had not run for probably 15 years before that. I had it recon about 20 years ago by a very reputable vintage engine restorer and it was returned to me as a short motor. I assembled the rest of it myself ensuring that there was plenty of oil on everything, but did not run it. It was never going to take this long to get the car on the road, but life takes one down other paths. The inside of the engine is still very clean except for the rust on those two cam followers. Did I miss putting some oil on those two? Possibly, will probably never know. Yes, it was hot tubbed, as was the head (twice in the case of the head, as well as sand blasting as much of the water jacket as we could). Interesting little comment on the engine restorer for your amusement. He asked, "how much of a hurry are you in?" Me "define hurry" Restorer "well, see that model T engine, that bloke is not in a hurry and it has been there two years" (and he had not commenced work on it yet) My answer was "well, I am in a bit more of a hurry than that" I think I got it back in about 7 months and I was happy with that.. But I have always remembered that, and frequently ask people to define what they mean when saying something will be ready "soon" or "that won't take long"! So, I am happy that all should be well and good, and from what I see, that appears to be the case. I have the cam followers back in place and am part way through adjusting valves (and needed a break!) Thanks for your concerns and comments. John

Bob, the thing that puzzles me is that the engine has not had water in it since recon. I have only just connected to radiator and still not added water yet. Another one of life's mysteries I suppose.

Today, armed with the above info, I had another go at checking the valve clearances. However I was still confused as a couple of the valves did not open and close when I thought they should. Then it dawned on me that they were stuck open. I looked closer and found the cam followers were stuck up for two valves, one in particular I could not move at all, so I have removed the valve tappet guide and pressed out the two offending cam followers (valve tappets). They were stuck with rust, one very badly. How that occurred puzzles me as everything else is well protected by an oily coating. I have cleaned up the cam followers OK but have not done the guides yet. Hopefully will do so tomorrow, then put it back together and adjust.

Thanks Fellas. Will have another look at it this morning.

I am trying to fire up my DA engine for probably the first time in 65 odd years and not having a lot of joy so far. It was recon some years ago and has a rebuilt carbi, so I am starting from scratch. Therefore I am trying to work through this as methodically as I can. I decided to check the valve clearances (which I set up some years ago) and found that I have collected quite a bit of conflicting information over the years. This has left me rather confused and I have abandoned the shed for the night. As the weather is a bit cold, I thought a couple of glasses of port may help, but it has not helped yet! Intend to have another look at this in the morning with a clearer mind, but has anyone got any information or advice that may help me? Thanks, John

Ian, further to my recent comment on Wurth Rubber Care and now in reference to the gear shift boot, the rubber corners on my bonnet developed a white film. It looks like your boot has the same, but I am not sure of the brown stuff. Anyway, I treated the rubber corners with the Wurth Rubber Care and the white film wiped off. Sprayed a bit more on and left it for a couple of days. The "liquid" is now gone and the corners again look like new. I don't know what happens to the liquid rubber care, if it evaporates or is absorbed by the rubber, but it goes away. Did not want to comment again till I had tried it, as all I had used it for in the past was to make rubber slippery. As I said, not cheap, but goes a long way. Just checked and now $42 on line, but I see there is a stick version as well now. Have not used that but. John

When I inserted the rubber in the DA windscreen frame I used Wurth Rubber Care. Comes in a spray can and was recommended in another old thread (by 1930, if I remember correctly). It is quite dear, but by far the best I have used in rubber. The windscreen frame had extensive repairs (by me) and was a very tight fit in a number of places. Tried lots of different detergents and stuff at the time and all were unsuccessful. The rubber care worked and worked well. Wurth a try (pun intended!) if something is giving you a really hard time.