GE Dictator 1928

I appreciate it very much Terry! Any brand or a vendor you would recommend?

This is great! Thank you! Any idea where i can buy this stuff in the US?

Someone else just told me they use 250W. I was wondering about the mineral oil as it is thicker than I think the 600W stuff used in Model A's. My problem is that the transmission shifts fairly good when it's first started, but after the car drives a while and is warned up, it grinds basically no matter what I do. I even had a situation where I had to take a hill in seconfd gear at aboyt 10-15 mph because when I would downshift, it took so long for the transmission to slow down enough that i could put the car in third, that i lost all the momentum I had built up in second, that I'd have to down shift again, so i just left it in second and put up with all the curses and finger jestures from the people behind me. Is there any yellow metal in these transmissions that we have to worry about?

Thanks!!Should that be regular 250W gear oil or mineral oil? The reason I'm asking is that the 90W mineral oil is, I think, thicker than the 600W stuff Snyders has for model A's.

Any ideas? I am having trouble shifting the car and i think a light weight tranny oil was put in. I was just told to use 90W Mineral oil for the bronze worm drive rear end of a 1934 Nash Ambassador and it was the thickest stuff I've ever seen. Should I be using that?? Thank you! Keith Gramlich

Any ideas? I am having trouble shifting the car and i think a light weight tranny oil was put in. I was just told to use 90W Mineral oil for the bronze worm drive rear end of a 1934 Nash Ambassador and it was the thickest stuff I've ever seen. Should I be using that?? Thank you! Keith Gramlich

REALLY? I'm stuck in the mud under this car and all you can say is "everybody smile"???

Great issue Pat! Thank you!! This is beneficial and good stuff for our Newsletter! Best, Keith Gramlich GNYR, AACA

John, My apologies if I offended. I only speak from experience with our local region, where the decision was made by the board to do an e-copy only. We found that the ones like my own parents (50 year members of both local and National AACA) who will not go electronic were ones who requested a hard copy. Best, Keith

Another reason for us to get as much info in the Rummage Box as possible for editors to draw on, is that so much of our membership is older, and they do not have computers, email, internet capability, etc., and fact of the matter is, they never will. A printed, hard copy Newsletter is the way to get this info to that larger-than-you-think population. I've have heard many statements to the effect of "this is the electronic age and everyone has to get with it and get a computer", but fact is, they won't and shouldn't have to if they do not want to. These people are, in a lot of instances, the forefathers of our generation of AACA member, and we should be able to provide them a communication that is comfortable for them, rather than to alienate them. We do an e-newsletter, but with printed copies to certain of our senior members that do not have electronic capabilities. Keith

John, I have done that as well. I just wrote to Fred Young and asked for him to push for Rummage Box articles based on the fact that it is the only way really for National AACA to communicate with the members. There have been great articles on HPOF, youth education, etc. It is a way for the local chapter members who can't get to the annual Meeting to know what is happening on a national basis, from the people that head those departments and committees, and we need our VP's of the various committees to write the articles so we can inform the readers of our region newsletters. Hopefully Fred will respond positively and we will have a new batch of stuff to pull from. Best regards, Keith Gramlich GNYR, AACA

Robert, I am looking for the King Seely gas gauge for a 1929 Dictator GE. Please advise? Thanks, Keith Gramlich

Thanks Wayne, I will PM you.

Wayne, I was wondering if you had heard back from Mr. Young. I agree with most of what I have read here, in that yes, we are all volunteers and many of us who have volunteered for the job as editor, have no formal training to do so, including myself. I however would LOVE to attend a seminar that is hosted by a professional or semi professional person who does know what they are doing and can TEACH us the best way to edit and publish a newsletter. For those that cannot be at the annual meeting, maybe a video of the seminar can be made so that the editors who cannot attend can see the seminar.

I have the same issue. Please advise what we can use in its place if we don't have the fall Rummage Box in soon. Do you need more articles? Let us know what you are looking for and we will be happy to see what we can put together, However, we like to put in timely and informative items from our executive board for the benefit and information of our region members. The Rummage Box is a highly useful tool in that regard. Many thanks, Keith Gramlich, Editor The Newsletter GNYRAACA

Speaking of which, has anyone reproduced the "The Dictator" decal for the dash? Keith

I also have a very thin and tender one in my gas tank. It was cleaned up, stabilized and put back in when the tank was done. I'd love to have one as well. Also looking for the front face or a rebuildable gauge as mine went missing years ago in a five finger discount from a mechanic.

Thank you for that! I meant the King Seeley fluid, but I thought it was mercury. That's a good thing to know for any of us that have these things. Thank you very much for the information!

I am looking for a working/non working King Seeley gas gauge for my 1928 Dictator. I know I can buy the reproduction body, glass, tubing, mercury, but i also need the face plate which I can't seem to find the face plate. A photo of my instrument cluster is attached. Also, if someone has knowledge of how to get the temperature gauge working, I would be appreciative! Thank you! Keith Gramlich .

Thank you all! I appreciate the info! Would a hotter plug be better in a looser engine where there is some oil ring blow by? Keith

I have been told that the Autolight 3076 is a replacement for the Champion W14. I am also seeing that we should not to use Champion anymore. I have a 1928 Studebaker GE Dictator with the later series 242 cu.in 6 cyl. It currently has W14's. I want to do a tune up, but want to use a good plug and also one that of course fits, won't cause collisions with the piston, not too cold and not too hot, etc. Does anyone have some guidance as to what I should be looking for? Also, can anyone tell be what the difference is between the Chapion W14, W18, W20, etc? Many thanks! Keith

It was a great meeting. My first, and will not be my last. Everyone involved deserves a huge thank you and congratulations for a job well done!!

As well, I have had to replace my UX-2 with a Carter BB-1 Updraft with the cross flange adaptor on my 1928 GE Dictator. Car runs just fine with this carb., though I need to make some adjustments on the linkage bends on the replacement linkage that was made for it. Be very sure that all of your linkages operate without any sticking or hanging up, or else you'll end up with a stuck throttle.

Interesting thoughts. No, the idle is on the low side, almost stall speed. Yes the motor is bolted directly to the frame. It's not a good thing at idle as I have a very loose valve train so with all the misses, etc., the car can shake pretty bad at idle.

Guys, Thanks for the responses. Sorry it has been a little while for me to respond. Studeq Thank you for posting the service bulletin for spark plugs! I appreciate that and it should help alot. THank you for posting! Terry, what I do from 2nd to 3rd is full clutch in, 2nd to neutral, then tap the clutch into 3rd. That seems to work, but it takes a while to have the engine slow down enough to get into 3rd. Maybe my engine is just so loose it doesn't want to slow down fast enough. Its so tempermental. If I have lost 7-10 lbs pressure in the tires, the car is cantankerous in shifting. The tires must be right up to full pressure to remotely shift comfortably. Then when the car is cold, it seems to want to shift reletively nicely, but once it warms up, I have to wait and wait to shift. That's why I was thinking a) maybe I need a thicker transmission oil, and maybe I need to readjust the clutch, as possibly it is not fully engaging/disengaging. Thanks again for everyone's help! Keith