[1931 Chrysler CD8 Roadster Rebuild Diary]

Took the radiator shell and shutters to my painter for advice on possibly powder-coating in chrome and black (green tape indicates sample pattern as per original 1931 CD8's). He does not feel they can powder coat 2 different colors on same piece, they have tried in past with difficulties around curing second color, taping residue etc. Recommends doing shell in powder chrome first, and then do black when rest of hood is painted, using a special paint. P/C Chrome would only need a light scruffing before paint. This would also allow any small imperfections (pitting, etc) to be smoothed before painting. With powder coating, no filler (for pitting etc) can be on sheet metal beforehand as cooking process will cause issues. He will at same time blast shutters with a mild medium and paint it with same black used on shell.

 

I show photos of internal workings of thermostatically controlled shutter system, adjustable rod goes thru rad and secures to thermostat on top of engine head. Mechanism is supposed to have 2 light springs on either side of rod to snuggly return slats to fully closed as engine cools. Both are missing. I stuck a spring from the parts bin on one side to give an idea of what I need, they fit over notched pins, probably about 1/4" diameter, 2.5" long.

[1931 Chrysler CD8 Roadster Rebuild Diary]

A couple of updates. Took the very good looking radiator I brought over from Germany to the only guy (he's about 75 like the rest of us!) within 100 miles who has the patience, experience and willingness to test, flush and repair these old honeycomb jobs. The core was fine, no leaks but the tanks had signs of fatigue(his term) and needed a few hairline cracks soldered. Tested at 3 lbs with no leaks, gave me some special  rad seal powder to put in coolant when I refill it as an extra caution. I sprayed the tanks several coats of semi gloss, and did just a light dusting on the core. Decided to expose the copper manufacturers tag, not sure if it was painted originally. Reads Perfex Corporation, Milwaukee Wisconsin. I'm showing several photos to indicate how complex these are with the V-shaped top tank, hole for shutter opening rod, and the unusual side mounting sheet metal. Note the brass stopcock is perfect, works like new.

[I hope my parts flew first class and were served champaign and caviar.]

The problem of the cost of shipping used parts out of state is not new. I recently bought 4 relatively rare 18" 1931 Chrysler Lockrings for $60 from a NY state vendor on eBay. He refused to ship out of country, even to Canada. I'm about 1000 miles from him. so I arranged for him to ship 2/3rds of the way to an old car friend in Bangor, Maine, cost only $30 via USPS. While I contemplated driving across the border to pick them up, the 600 mile return trip was not worth time and cost. So I asked my friend to have them shipped USPS to me. Cost! $93USD. So the $60 lockrings ($83 Canadian or $20 each) cost $183US landed in my yard, ($245Canadian, or $61 each). Fortunately, border agencies considered them only valued at $60 and did not charge the normal 15% Fed/Prov sales tax, normally charged on imported items over $60. For those stateside reading this, it may help you understand why us out of country folks press for the lowest possible purchase price and shipping option.    

[Help to ID old Continental L Head 4 cyl]

H 28 8 is likely casting date, August 28 1928, so could have been for a 1929 vehicle.

[1928 Chrysler 72 Roadster wheel lug bolt]

I understand this was first year for accessory wire wheels on Roadsters, Chrysler/Dodge may have used same/similar bolt for later years. Any hex head 9/16x18 bolt of right length will work in meantime. I'm looking for a pair for my 1931 Chrysler Roadster, 7/8" hex head, 1/2"x1.25"x20tpi per chance anyone has a spare pair.

[1931 Chrysler Jerking in all Gears]

So many variables, sounds like a power problem, compression, timing, plug wires, a cylinder misfiring, ...... plugs, fuel mixture.....and a dozen other possibilities. My friend 80 YR OLD Larry would have it narrowed down in 5 minutes (classic fuel, electric, air, compression quartet) (may also be a clutch issue) but he is not available on Saturdays! The fact it idles smoothly and can be revved smoothly suggests it is a power issue to me, but I'm not Larry..

[radiatore winged cap.]

Start with make, model, and year. For example, 1931 Chryslers (shown here had a winged rad cap, but the 8 cyl cars had near identical cap to the 6cyl cars, but about 1/4" larger diameter base. So specific model is critical (assuming radiator is original as well).

[Antique Front Cowl]

I would place value a close to zero. condition is biggest factor, rust, bullet holes etc, and appear to be common cars except perhaps #37. If you have a local rodder or rat rodder, they my offer $100 a piece as a starter kit for a rod of some sort.

[1931 Chrysler CD8 Roadster Rebuild Diary]

Having spent some time on rear of car, time to address things up front. Removed Rad/Shell as I plan to send rad for testing before painting. Also plan to put a final finish on shell, still to be determined. Had to adjust headlight leads as they were about 3/4" short of headlights, matter of just adjusting harness in the blind area under rad. Also removed 2 of the 3 engine side pans and refinished them. Exhaust side pan cannot be removed without removing entire exhaust system, so cleaned it up in place.

 

There is a 2 piece shroud/deflector, closure under rad, secured to cross member. When I removed it from original sedan, all 3 heavily rusted #12 nuts snapped off. Turns out they were threaded onto 3 unusual " drive-in rivets" with #12 threaded ends. I 've never seen such fasteners, only 3 in this whole car as near as I can figure. So I tapped the 3 holes with 5/16" fine tap, and used some original 5/16" fine bolts with a lock washer to securer them to crossmember. The 2 pieces bolt on from underneath once rad shell is in place so top side of nut is inaccessible. I note the outer piece has 4 holes where it was originally secured to bottom of Sedan rad shell. Interestingly, the bottom of the shell I am using has no such holes. So I will figure that out before I send rad shell for finishing. Happy Thanksgiving Day to my Canadian friends.

[1930 1929 Marmon Wire Wheels powder coated, nice.]

I think I may have listed these for sale a while back, but now listing again. These 4- 19" wheels are (I was told) for 1929 1930 Marmon Roosevelt (perhaps fit other years or vehicles), made by Budd, #20463, date stamped 10 30, are in near mint condition. I bought them about 7 years ago from a friend who said he bought them 40 years earlier at a flea market. I planned to use them on a project (and had a professional machine shop add a second set of bolt holes) to fit Auburn hubs/drums) but have found proper wheels for my car. Spokes are flawless as are hubs and rims, some pitting on rings. They have been cleaned, blasted, smoothed and powder coated gloss black, and with powder coated chrome rings. Never used since painted. Come with 3 original Marmon hub caps that were on wheels when I bought them. Tire/Tube shown on one not included, and one wheel has not had ring installed yet. Asking just $600 (what I have invested in them) for the set or best offer.

[Articles: Classic Cars Less Harmful To The Environment Than EVs, Studies Finds]

Thank you Peter for posting the original post, it plainly describes what most of us in the hobby understand and agree with in respect to the minimum impact the old car hobby and it's vehicles have on climate. But there is always the 1% who don't take the time to fully read and digest the content, but rather use the opportunity to vent their anger at you, or others they don't agree with on anything. I like especially a couple of your reminders, which perhaps Bill should reread (or read for the first time).  (1) Before you speak ask yourself if what you are going to say is true, is kind, is necessary, is helpful. If the answer is no, maybe what you are about to say should be left unsaid. (2) Wise men talk because they have something to say; fools because they (think they) have to say something.

[Set of 4 1929/30 Marmon 19" Wire Wheels]

I think I may have listed these for sale a while back, but now listing again. These 4 wheels are for 1929 Marmon (perhaps fit other years or vehicles), made by Budd, are in near mint condition, with some pitting previously on rings. They have been cleaned blasted smoothed and powder coated gloss black, and with powder coated chrome rings. Never used since painted. Come with 3 original Marmon hub caps. Tire/Tube shown on one not included, and one wheel has not had ring installed yet. Asking just $600 for the set or best offer.

[1931 Chrysler CD8 Roadster Rebuild Diary]

Took bumper back bar to a friends to use his hydraulic press. As luck would have it, the press wasn't working properly, so he used a "#3 tire roller" from the 1890's he bought in Massachusetts years ago, made by Kingsley Tool and Manufacturing of Canton Mass, just a set of 3 steel rollers with top one centered between 2 lower ones, a couple of 3/4" threaded adjusters, and an 18" crank. Very ingenious machine, worked like a charm. 3 or 4 passes with a bit of additional pressure each time and matched both ends. I understand these machines were used to make steel band "tires" for wagon/buggy wheels. My friend is a retired mechanical engineer who has worked around and with machine shop gear all his working life, has lots of old interesting lathes, presses, a nice metal plane, some computerized gear, and just sold his "gear cutting" lathe. 

[1931 Chrysler CD8 Roadster Rebuild Diary]

There's an old expression "every little job is a big job". Yesterday and today I decided to have a look at the way the stop/taillight fitted to car, and specifically at bumper. It seemed to be leaning backward unduly. After several attempts to re-align things and see how much tilt there was, I decided to double check all the bumper/trunk rack and medallion fit. Several things were off center slightly, but nothing too serious. Eventually I undid the medallions from their braces and this is what everything looks like. As for the stop/tail light, the remaining tilt is down to 1/8" off vertical versus the original 3/8", and is not fixable vis a vis the means of fastening to chassis, so I will leave it (it may even be correct?). I may slot the hole in the bracket at back of light which will allow some further tilting to nearer vertical.

 

As can be seen in photos, the 2 intermediate braces don't meet the back of the medallions, short by about 5/8"-3/4". I can force them into position enough to get a nut on bolt and tighten, but that pulls bumper bars slightly concave, not a proper look. One brace is original to setup, second was missing so I made an  identical one a while back. My guess is the curve in the ends of the back bar are not as they should be, passenger side in particular appears to have lost some original curve where green tape is shown. Driver side end bolt is about 3/8"-1/2" further forward than opposite side.

 

I considered using 1/2" spacers between brace and medallion setup and longer bolts, but figure it will look wrong. So appears only alternative is to disassemble bumper and take back bar to a spring shop and have ends re-curved about 3/8" on driver side and about 3/4" on passenger side.

 

"Every little job"!

[Aussie 1930 Chrysler 66 Tourer Restoration.]

Great looking work, this is going to be a stunning car. As the old saying goes, when you think you're just about done, you're about 1/2 finished! I've always found the last few stages seem to take forever.

[1959 GM and Chrysler Rearend Gymnastics gone wild.]

mrspeedyt wrote "the single best looking car from that era is the Porsche". Hard to disagree, the Porsche 356 was a wonderful timeless design, I'd love to own one. However it is not a North American car, which this topic is primarily focused on.

 

If we stray off the continent into Europe, the 1950's (and specifically 1959) had some stunningly beautiful cars, whether it was British makes like Jags, Astons and Healeys, or Italian (Ferrrari, Alfa, Maserati, Fiat ) or German (MB Gullwings and coupes, BMW's, Porsche, Karmann Ghia), and even France with the iconic Citroens. I know many will poohpooh the idea of these being nicely designed cars, as these makes when brought over were often criticized for technical issues, many of which were due to a lack of dealership and service support. But that's a topic for another day, and another post!

 

In 1965 I bought one of these, my earliest FUN car, and an attention getter where ever you drove.. 

[1959 GM and Chrysler Rearend Gymnastics gone wild.]

Gee 60FlatTop, hard not to reply, (1) "Beauty is in the eye of the Beholder" is certainly an old saying, and few people challenge it. I've never heard of your homemade variation. (2) Architects on any large project work with junior architects, draftsmen, spec writers, and a full range of mechanical, electrical, and civil engineers (specializing in structural, acoustics, landscaping, ground/soils analysis etc), so the team is large. Architects in fact rarely if ever work alone. Their role is typically to ensure the integrity of their design concept (which their client has approved) is followed thru to fruition, and to guide the others in finding resolution to any challenges that show up during the process. Senior Engineers serve the same role in their projects, leading and coordination a team to ensure the product envisaged comes out as they intended. These roles are never simple, and require vision, leadership, good problem solving and inter-personal skills, and attention to details. Both are usually working for a client who expects the best possible end result.

[The identify this tool]

I'm thinking the plug-in device is some sort of warming tool, perhaps to heat up oil (for cold weather starts) by inserting in oil fill pipe, or heating up an otherwise inaccessible fitting to ease removal. Hope this doesn't "curl your hair"!

[What does this Rare Accessory Tinted hinged Windshield Visor Fit???]

This is a very nice find, I'm guessing original upper part of an early split windshield, high quality fittings suggest a higher priced car. Definitely a used piece based on pattern of wear, but excellent condition. It's possible it originally came as a clear glass unit and an owner had a company (selling the Houze product) replace the original clear glass with tinted glass. 

[1959 GM and Chrysler Rearend Gymnastics gone wild.]

Well, I suppose I should confess I graduated in 1970 with a Masters in Architecture. While most people associate that discipline with the design of buildings, the 6 year long program focused on all the principles of good design, which can be aptly applied to virtually any field of design. I started by taking 2 years of basic engineering which gave a solid foundation for design of structures, mechanical systems, drafting, surveying, strength of materials, etc, and paved the way for a later better understanding of good design from both an aesthetic as well as a practical viewpoint. A key principle of all this training is to approach a project holistically and as a complete entity, i.e. design every element as part of a unified whole. This design philosophy is what I carry with me when I look at car design, seeking a unified whole, and an overall image that is clean, solid, purposeful and pleasant to the eye from every angle, and free of arbitrary cosmetics or foreign elements. I've long considered only 2 cars from the Big 3 in the 1950's met that measure, the early Corvettes and the 1955/56 T-Bird. The 1950 Ford was my favorite among the family sedans. JMHO?   

[1959 GM and Chrysler Rearend Gymnastics gone wild.]

A couple of more from the Big 3, the Imperial was always flashy, but the poor previously lovely 55-57 T-Bird was by now developing excess. The only exception to the excess may have been the lovely shapely behind on the 1959 Corvette (pls ignore 1989 reference, typo), sleek, purposeful, timeless, even if bumper is a bit sinuous. Why companies did not take cues from such designs remains a mystery.

[1959 GM and Chrysler Rearend Gymnastics gone wild.]

If you take the time to imagine the $billions the Big 3 (and 3 or 4 smaller companies) spent every year re-tooling their sheet metal presses, making dies and presses for chrome pieces, setting specs for glass revisions, taillight assemblies, hubcaps, mirrors, door panels, etc, etc, you have to wonder what they were thinking. Meanwhile, the technical, safety, mileage, and quality control standards were ignored. Little wonder in the end, by 10 years or so, the foreign car invasion began. While the invasion cars had their own problems, the opportunity gave them a big boost and eventually led to the quality, cost, and designs of their products taking a huge chunk of the market.  While a lot of Big 3 executives and designers of the era get regular praise on here, in hindsight they were very poor at looking into the future desires of the average automotive buyer. 

[1959 GM and Chrysler Rearend Gymnastics gone wild.]

Lest the FOMOCO and other brand lovers feel left out, here are some of their offerings in 1959. Mercury, Lincoln, Ford, also Oldsmobile, Studebaker and Rambler. By this time, all manufacturers had given in to the drunken scribbling of others. The Rambler photo I included as it shows an example of the further contortions the companies went to in the Station Wagon lines, sometimes even more painful!

[1959 GM and Chrysler Rearend Gymnastics gone wild.]

Thanks Pfeil for including the fronts and rears in same post. Your montage underlines the styling excess of the day, and as a designer myself, also underlines the arbitrariness of all the elements. I am reluctant to call it design or styling, but would prefer to call it "frivolous excess" (and some car aficionados love excess). Other than the Buick where there is some attempt to have front and back treatment share a "theme" ( corner upsweeps which serve no real purpose other than like a person having big ears), the rest of the fronts and rears could be from 2 entirely different cars. Needless to say, good visual design for any product should be based on an overall theme which carries on from one end to the other in a fluid/organic manner. In 1959, the people (I'm not going to call them designers or stylists) sketching out these rears (and fronts) must have been simply given free rein, or early users of LSD! I'm guessing one person was responsible for the front treastment, another for the rear.

[1959 GM and Chrysler Rearend Gymnastics gone wild.]

This photo montage showed up on Facebook today, stunning example of 2 of the Big 3's over indulgence with fins, chrome, mindless sheet metal gymnastics on cars that were otherwise pretty mundane performers. If I have it correct, this was about the end period for such excess, some love it, some hate it!