Gunsmoke
-
Posts
2,634 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Forums
Gallery
Events
Posts posted by Gunsmoke
-
-
I like the 2 color combination it has now (with black fenders), and my preference is to keep this monotone color scheme (meaning using only shades of one color). I would therefore do wheel in same shade as beltline, and try to find a canvas for the top of the same beltline color or very close. I would also stick to blackwall tires. I'm not sure tan would look right nor black for the top. These big cars were usually bought by a pretty conservative crowd, and they tended to keep their color schemes conservative. As someone else said, too many colors (or cooks) spoil the broth! I also agree a photoshop with a range of color choices is a good way to get to the best scheme without spending a lot of money on trials. BTW, I like the RR scheme shown above, a nice top color.
-
3
-
-
The manner of construction of the upper part of the doors is unique. Instead of traditional pressed steel one piece construction around windows, they appear to be individually skinned uprights and cross pieces. Such details suggest car doors have been altered, although hard to determine why. I'm not aware of any mid 20's cars constructed this way, but then again there were probably 200-300 manufacturers.
-
1
-
-
Sorry Walt that my first post may have steered your original intention off the paved road and onto a few muddy tracks. The relationship between cost of home ownership and family earnings has always been a pretty steady ratio, notwithstanding occasional crazy periods when interest rates or inflation drive things out of whack. Automobiles are as you say a different beast.
Since buying an automobile is seen as a necessary evil (esp for those who live far from workplace), just what one choses to buy is such a personal preference. New or used, big or small, fast or slow, loaded or basic, brand loyalty, purchase or lease, 1,2 or 3 car family, kids or no kids, dogs, garage or no garage, car, SUV or truck, 2WD, 4WD FWD RWD (snow or no snow), built in the USA or foreign, small money or big money, and on and on. I suspect consumers in 1931 shared many of these same dilemmas although some of the choices did not exist then. SUV's for example (which are typically not "Sporty at all IMHO) seem to be the current vogue. Personally I hate their looks and do not enjoy driving them.
So back to your thought about custom bodied and pricey cars. They don't exist today as an option from the top 10+ manufacturers. But companies like RR are happy to build one for the few who feel the need to have a one off, and when they do, the price can easily exceed twice the price of an ordinary home. But remember, in 1931 Lincoln custom bodied owners did not typically live in ordinary houses, in deed they often lived in Mansions 5-10 times more expensive than ordinary houses.
On a final note, affluence and "faux" affluence is a prevailing issue today. Easy credit and double income households has led to many families living well beyond their means and buying vehicles (and houses) that make no financial sense. As a result they must stay in the rat race forever, while complaining about the high cost of everything. Such is life.
-
3
-
2
-
-
Another interesting article and commentary Walt. The Lincoln pricing information is reflective of a lot of "luxury" car pricing of the day, and continued on for 50+ years, especially among the Big 3. When a basic new Ford/Chevrolet in 1930/31 could be bought by the common man/woman for $500-$600, the companies knew there were perhaps 5%-10% of customers for whom money was not an issue. Those people could afford to pay much more, to get a better car, to get a larger car, to get the prestige that goes with having something no one else has, or can afford. By the 60's/70's, the solution was more doodads (power everything, bigger engines, cosmetics etc on same basic car). Some of these buyers went for overseas cars (RR, Bentley, Mercedes, etc). And the mega rich/Hollywood crowd sought out the real top of the pile, paying as much as 20K for a Duesenberg or other top marque.
I'm not sure there is anything much different today with one exception. While the price range is typically $30K-$100K (with some supercars above that) very few manufacturers are making a "basic car" anymore. I define that as a solid reliable A-B transport, no frills (maybe a radio!), but without all the advanced electronic gizmos, airbags, and other junk that just adds cost without much necessity. I realize federal "safety" regulations necessitate a lot of the add-ons.
Pickup trucks are a good example. While I'm sure a basic, reliable stripped down bench seat 1/4 ton could be built for $20K, most I see on the road are $75K gas guzzlers with select leather seating, every conceivable electronic and power gimmick, questionably reliable mechanicals, and never hauling anything larger than a few bags of groceries.
IMHO, in 1931, you got what you paid for. Today, not so much!
-
11
-
1
-
-
Not a lot to report on, family matters have kept me too busy with house renos, building a treehouse etc. Got the front fenders back from body guy 3 weeks ago, the added pieces fit pretty well, he partially finished them before blasting and epoxy primer. This next few days I hope to make progress on the side aprons and complete a mock-up of a spare wheel carriage. Not sure if I'll use any of the original fender wheel well, using it to determine dimensions etc for what I will make. Still looking for a couple of decent wire wheels, 18", 6 bolt, likely one year only. Had a line on a good pair of CD Deluxe 17", but they will not fit first series CD8 hubs. Bummer, would have used them on front to give car a slightly lower stance.
-
4
-
-
It's a shame these old cars are so often left ignored and deteriorating for so long, often to the "point of no return". This car appears to be one of those cases. While finding a sincere hobbyist with good mechanical, carpentry and sheet metal skills can save it (not to mention electrical, upholstering and chroming), the time (2000hours) cost(conservatively $25000) and enthusiasm (endless) will likely make it impossible. Especially when you consider that a car like this in restored decent running order can likely be bought for circa $8K-$15K. Not trying to be negative, just realistic.
I bought this decent 1931 Chevrolet 2 door in 2008 for $4000 (it had been garage stored non-running for 45 years) and after 6 years of rebuilding effort and investing $7000 in outside labour and material/parts, and 1500 hours of my own time, sold it as a good un-painted runner in 2021 for $9000. New owner was a car painter, and it now looks very nice, but still has the classic old car mechanicals issues, difficult starting, sketchy brakes, and 65 year old tires. So my advice, think hard on tackling this 1928.
-
1
-
-
Nice fit, I understand they had a thin soft rubber gasket, secures vent in one spot and prevents rattling. Thickness of gasket is determined by clearance when vent is flush with top of cowl, in my case, less than 1/8". Ideally gasket should be slightly depressed when vent is fully closed. Rubber gasket goes in the groove in the vent housing, with a hole where drain is. Nice work. The spring fits to end of that dangling piece and either goes to the bracket welded to the underside of cowl, or perhaps the extra hole in pivot rod.
-
Whenever in doubt, pick a Nash! This comes close in many details.
-
3
-
-
It seems pretty straight forward, although I admit it took me 3 or 4 tries to get mine assembled properly.
The bracket bolts to the vent via the 3 corresponding holes. To determine which way it faces(and on inside or outside of vent), set a thin rubber/cork gasket on cowl (or anything to protect paint finish) and set vent in place (and tape it so it does not move) with even gap and flush with cowl. Then look at resulting placement under dash and determine orientation of bracket based on where the anchor brackets are that it fastens to. They should be welded to underside of cowl. Once orientation is figured out, you may be able to remove vent and loosely bolt bracket to vent in proper orientation and reinsert vent into cowl and again confirm an even gap. It appears the long rod acts as an axle, going through both end holes and thru the clips welded to u/s cowl and secured with small cotter pins. The bolt with square nut may not be in correct place and would appear to be too large for what is required here. In my '31, the lever handle was secured to the vent by a separate clip. It seems to me there should be a couple of additional pieces, a spring, and a lever for opening/closing. I'm showing pics of mine, although different, general operation is the same. Note mine has a three piece lever mechanism with a couple of notches on one piece so vent can be opened in 3 positions. Hope this is some help.
-
Steam bent bows while perhaps original, are a big problem to duplicate exactly like originals. Firstly, you need very good patterns as frequently all the bows in a set are unique. The resultant finished bows not only spring back a somewhat unpredictable amount, if left off their clamped position for any length of time, they spread further, seeking their original "straight" place, and once they set in that stable position, are virtually impossible to return to correct shape without further steaming. Laminating as stated makes an easier, more stable and stronger bow, including the ability to take tacks/screws etc. When laminating, thickness of plies can be based on whatever works for you, usually the thinner the easier to form. For example when making "bentwood" chair bases, 1/8" plies are often used. I would be considering 3/16" plies of a wood sufficiently flexible to make the corner curve without splitting. Steamers use "green" wood which has sufficient lignin to allow flexing without cracking. On a final note, most bows need final work, rounding, tapering etc before staining. To improve those aspects, use straight grain product, free of knots and other imperfections. On a final note, many bows are sleeved with canvas, so laminations are not seen.
Finally, as mentioned above, the finished shape typically has to be very precise in order to fit to the side irons without putting strain on the whole assembly while up or down. Good luck.
-
In Europe and America, cars were never much of a "novelty" after about 1895. Once serious production began around the turn of the century, both abroad and in NA, only price, roads and fuel/service were in the way of them becoming popular and more commonplace. I would guess by 1910, only money and "people set in their ways" separated cars from horses.
-
With so many fantastic cars in the PB Concours, I'm guessing 15-20 entrants (perhaps more) felt they deserved serious consideration for BOS. Not sure how I could ever decide once all the numbers were crunched. The Bugatti is my favorite of all the cars shown, largely due to its rarity, the classic Bugatti "skin and bones" engineering approach, their outstanding racing history, and its relative originality. The MB SSK would be second due to their status as an early super roadster, but it is obviously fully restored likely at a cost of $millions. We should all be so fortunate to own any of the cars and be able to drive them regularly.
-
Only GM and their phony marketers would make a fake exhaust tip that doesn't actually exhaust anything, but just covers the original downturned exhaust pipe. Cosmetics was always a big part of their "schtick" back then. Not sure I've ever seen a fake ex tip.
-
1
-
-
Great looking car despite the modifications, bet it is fun to drive.
-
1
-
1
-
-
Nice work, attention to detail is always rewarding, even if challenging to accomplish. For my '31 Chrysler Roadster, which has a similar stainless steel cowl band, it is one piece and tightened firmly against cowl by hidden adjustable bolts at lower ends each side. Gap between hood back edge and cowl band are about 3/16", and at rad shell 1/8", controlled by the center hinge end fitting. Hood also sits about 3/32" off top of cowl on fabric "wind lace" riveted to cowl and to rad shell. The stainless cowl band acted as a protection from careless raising and lowering of hood sides which could chip/scratch the cowl paint if not careful. Instead, the hood corners touch the stainless band first. Corners of hood often had leather or rubber triangular corner protectors which also help protect cowl and hood corner paint. Here I show a set of hood side lift handles I removed from a crumpled a 1930 LaSalle hood, which may be similar to those used on Cadillac (chrome plated brass), and also the hood latch pieces.. Enjoying your thread very much.
-
4
-
-
Enjoying the 10' photos, but really enjoy the closeups of mechanicals, suspensions, wheels, dashes and such. For those of us who try our best to restore/rebuild old cars, the devil is usually in the details, and some of your engine photos are so interesting. Are "hood up" photos usually available?
-
1
-
-
So it is a90 degree adjustable gauge which fits on the shaft(at center hole) of some machine (not automotive IMHO) and a pin/bolt would go through curved opening and be adjusted and tightened with a nut. The 2 "stops" on outer edge are also a factor and likely fetch up against a pin. That's all I got!
-
Have never seen one, thinking some form of dimpling tool, perhaps for counter sink dimples in metal, various numbers would be for size of machine screw head?
-
My 2.5 yr old grandson Ted taking the Chrysler CD8 Roadster project for a spin around the yard last month!
-
15
-
-
-
I had a gent from Ireland this week inquiring about wiring diagram for a 1917 Stutz (related to my older AMBU similar posting). Do you have anything Stutz you could post here, and I will direct him to your post? Thanks.
-
I always suggest when asked this question to let the seller make the first offer, after all it is their car. From that point, negotiating can be fair as the owner's position is already known. The person who owns the car, and despite the dust, likely has a pretty fair idea of the market. "Runs and drives" is a loose term, as you know there are a million things between a solid reliable runner and a questionable driver, brakes, tires, electronics, compression, shifting, road noises, just to name a few, and any of which can cost $$$ to sort. So if owner says $30K and will let you clean surface and take it for a 10 mile run, you may have a good idea of value plus or minus. Great looking car, but getting harder and harder to find people to work on them.
-
1
-
-
Please AllanR (or moderator) change title to something like "British car unknown dash". Obviously if everyone posted topics in the "What Is It" forum titled "What is is", it would be tough to find anything.
-
Since some of the 10 Canadian Provinces have shown up, here is my rare 1931 Chrysler CD8 Roadster (estimated as perhaps 1 of 6 assembled in Canada and only survivor) being unloaded in 2014 after being found in rough shape in Donkin, Cape Breton, Nova Scotia, about as far East in Mainland North America as you can go. 10 years later, it is still a work in progress. Many thanks to my friend Jim S for going 300 miles to pick it up for/with me.
-
4
-
It's a shame these old cars are so often left ignored and deteriorating for so long, often to the "point of no return". This car appears to be one of those cases. While finding a sincere hobbyist with good mechanical, carpentry and sheet metal skills can save it (not to mention electrical, upholstering and chroming), the time (2000hours) cost(conservatively $25000) and enthusiasm (endless) will likely make it impossible. Especially when you consider that a car like this in restored decent running order can likely be bought for circa $8K-$15K. Not trying to be negative, just realistic.
Dealership emblems, do you want them on your car?
in General Discussion
Posted
Absolutely not. No free advertising, and most are poorly placed and destroy the design balance of the rear of the car. When I went to the local Honda dealer with my son in 2020 (he was buying a 2020 red Civic Sport Coupe), we made it clear to the salesperson when we signed the purchase agreement that we did not want to see a dealer sticker anywhere on the car, and also did not want the ugly black license plate bracket mounted on front of car (Nova Scotia only requires a rear plate). Sure enough, when we went in the next day to pick up the car, there was no dealer sticker, but the front bracket was put on the car, and there was an ugly dealer plate surround on rear plate area. After a brief "what the hell" discussion, they took 1/2 hour to remove them very carefully. I don't understand why any dealer feels they have implied permission to deface anyone's new car. Many owners don't care. My neighbor has a similar Honda with the front license bracket on the car, and in it a dealer sign. Go figure!