[Pinstriping line in factory]

Another thing, the hoods are not in place, so should we assume the hoods were pinstriped separately? This photo of a nicely restored 1930 Coupe does not show pinstriping around window.

[Pinstriping line in factory]

Are we sure they are all pinstriping? I ask for several reasons such as I don't see the expected pinstriping paraphernalia for the first 2 cars, the white smocks and shiny high heels would seem odd for painting. The first woman's car already appears to have the beltline striped and up close it looks like she is adjusting or cleaning something at the door latch. She has something non-stripper in her hand. The second car is also already pinstriped and she seems to be adjusting something related to the upper window surround (where there would not likely be pinstriping), perhaps installing runners or cleaning smudges. There is no evidence of a small paint tray or brush in any of the tool areas as I see. However, the back 3 women do seem to be doing something similar to pinstriping, and perhaps the first 2 ladies are simply tidying things up. 

[Did your Father influence the type of classic antiques that you own today ?]

My Dad was a long time mechanic, trained just before WWII and after a Canadian Navy stint worked for a local Ford Dealership. In his spare time he worked on cars for his friends in our backyard wood floored garage, where I passed him wrenches and cleaned parts when I was 8-10. I still remember the day he gave my own set of keys on a ring, although I have no idea what they originally fit. He was a dedicated FORD guy, driving primarily Mercurys for all my early years, he loved their strong and reliable power plants, and their ability to go fast safely. He would often talk about 2 cars, (1) the 1936 Auburn he owned pre war and had stored in a friends garage when he joined the navy. He often said it was the best car he ever owned. A friend contacted him in 1943 looking to buy the tires which were impossible to find during the war, and he reluctantly sold him the whole car. He said it was the biggest mistake he had ever made. (2) The 2nd car he dwelt on was his friend's hot rodded 1931 Big Black Chrysler Roadster, a classic 1952 era souped up job, Caddy V8, LaSalle Tranny, Auburn Dual Ratio rearend. You can read more about my efforts to ressurect that car in my Diary in the Chrysler General forum. 

 

So yes, my Dad influenced my interest in old cars generally, his love for speed, and certain models specifically, and reinforced to me the importance of good road handling, strong power trains and well maintained mechanicals. I hope he realizes his lessons have been learned.

[What type of suspension?]

Man, what a monstrosity. As I see what you have, there appears to be a front mounted motor with large flywheel set in a triangular support welded to front axle and steel spine connecting front and rear axles. A driveshaft back to a differential case of some sort, meant to drive rear wheel for which there are partial u-jointed half axles. I do not see any transmission/shifting mechanism. The front steering seems to rely on an odd spindle type using independent coil springs on each side, although I don't see a steering arm or tie rod. The dramatically curved springs ahead of flywheel appear to be intended to act as a "springy" base for a body to be added, much like early buggies. I'm starting to think someone was trying to develop a car prototype (perhaps using some off the shelf stuff) and never sorted out all the wrinkles.

[Information wanted]

Please amend topic title to add "1925 Davis".

[Looking at two 1938 McLaughlins in -33]

This circa '37/38 Opera Coupe (Buick or M/B) has been sitting in same spot for about 50 years, owner began a rebuild in early '70's, got married, decided it had to sit for a while, and so it still sits. I took these photos 10 years ago, think it is still there, owner has all the bits.  

[Learning The True Market Value Of An Old Car]

As summarized in the above advice from many experienced guys, there is no source for "a realistic market value for a car I'd consider buying". The nearest "big ticket" item most people buy are houses, but they are easy to establish market value because they are in fixed locations, influenced only by local forces, and supply/demand and condition. Old cars are an entirely different story. Factors like supply (lots or few), demand(read rarity or style), condition, location, price, ease of maintenance, availability of parts/service, time of year, motivation of seller (needs the money or just testing the market), color, what else is available for comparison for same money, who has rebuilt/restored the car (reputation) a buyer's make preferences (love Fords, hates Chevs), etc, all enter the mix. I've seen beautifully restored 1940 Chevrolet Coupes advertised starting at $35,000, and after a year or 2 still unsold at $22,000. Finally, the overall market is shifting annually the past few years, and any general market value today for a specific model may change dramatically in a short time. Always ask a large local carc club for some advice, they usually have a good feel for the local market.

 

My advice, buy the car you want in the best possible condition you can find, and forget what you paid, just enjoy the hell out of it. 

[1931 Chrysler CD8 Roadster Rebuild Diary]

Like many of you, took a month off for the holidays and just getting back to the Roadster Project. I'm working on front fender solution and while doing so was examining the method of fastening the side of fender to the outrigger type bracket. It involves a heavy steel clip that is drilled and slotted for 2 carriage bolts, and welded to inside edge of fender, thus concealing everything. What is interesting is that the 2 front fenders which came from same car, have a different method of providing a backup piece of metal to weld the clip to.

 

One fender had some extra sheet metal added to the turn under lip, about 3/4"x6" long, and the clip is spot welded and filet welded to it. The other fender had a normal small lip entire length, and then a 6"x1" thick steel strip was welded to the edge of the lip as shown. The clip was then welded to this piece of steel.

 

My guess is as good as yours as to which method came first and why a change would be made. I am guessing it was easier to make fender with a uniform lip rather then having to use more sheet metal to allow for the extra turn under. I am having cycle style fenders made and have asked the suppliers to add the extra turn-under if it is easy to do, otherwise I will plan to follow the second option once I have the fenders back.   

[Help with Family History]

Varun, you da man!

[1931 Chrysler Imperial Oil Filter.]

A while back I purchased this unit from an AACA/WPC member on here who was clearing out the last 2 or 3 of some custom made filters for Chrysler CD8's he had someone manufacture years ago. They take a modern canister type as shown in these photos. In meantime I removed and flushed the original filter and have it on engine during initial startup and will eventually replace with this new one. Beautifully made aluminum case, perfect match to original including raised lettering for inlet/outlet etc.

[WTB CD8 tail lights]

I spent 8 years searching for one for my roadster project, eventually found this one thanks to a member on this forum tipping me off to it on eBay. It was listed as "A 1920's Chrysler tail light". It was obvious seller did not know what it was, and fortunately for me I got it at about 15% of current pricing. I'm told a restored one sells circa $2000. They are especially hard to find because they were a one year only, were produced in small numbers, and many restored cars now have 2 rear lights although originals only had one. I expect some knowledgeable CD8 guys on here may point you in the direction of someone who collects/sells Chrysler parts.

[What can I get a car collector wife for Christmas?]

On long cold winter nights perhaps a jigsaw puzzle might be a good way to pass the time, like this one my 2 granddaughters (now 4 and 7) got me for Christmas. 1000 pieces, about 10 hours of patience, especially popular for the 50's Chevy crowd (although this one has some upgrades)! 

[Revolutionary cars in history]

Much like many other inventions or major advances in human existence (the printing press, steel, the telephone, computers, antibiotics to name a few) the automobile invention circa 1886 was revolutionary and from that initial invention, has been subject to evolution, but not revolution in my view.

 

Certainly Karl Benz and Gottlieb Daimler are widely credited with the first successful fitting of an Internal Combustion (I/C) engine to a wheeled vehicle for personal transport. Their design concept of a 4 wheel, I/C powered, front steering, belt or chain driven conveyance remains largely unchanged in principle for nearly 140 years. What has happened is some very important "evolutions" over the period, typically one every decade or so.

 

Rolls Royce and Cadillac cars of the 1905-1910 era established high standards for others to follow. Henry Ford followed with the perfecting of the assembly line means of making the Model T, an "everyman's car", opening the wide expanses of North America for all to see. By the late teens and early 1920's, Bugatti, Porsche, even Ferrari as well as Miller and the Duesenberg brothers stateside, and others saw the potential of creating sports cars to appeal to the human desire for speed and adventure, creating an ever increasing race to better technology, road handling and streamlining. This is AACA members favorite development.

 

While the oft referred to "classic styling" peaked in America by 1932 (Duesenberg, Packard, Cadillac and many others), the American industry moved to streamlining with several successful and unsuccessful attempts. In Europe, focus was on the artistic cars of Bugattis and Alfa, and the powerful government sponsored beasts of MB and Auto Union, which dominated racing with their superb cars. 

 

Forthe average Joe (or should I say Karl), VW was developing its Beetle (1939 forward) which some might say was the first 'major change in automobile mass production" since the ubiquitous Model T. It's "peoples car" vision was for a small, easy on gas, solid, rear engined urban conveyance. It would prove a successful concept right up to today, even if production only lasted 40 years or so.

 

Post war, the bathtub style was an evolution, developed in America  (1949 ford, Hudson, Packard) and in Europe with the early Ferrari's. The same period saw the development and later refinement of V8 engines, both a blessing and a curse (lots of power for trucks and busses etc, but gas guzzlers for cars). Such power allowed for bigger, heavier and more extravagant cars, and the 1950's were strewn with them, with their chrome, fins and googaws.

 

Europe for the most part avoided this period of excess, continuing to produce fine, smaller, technically proficient vehicles, M/B, Aston, Bentley, Citroen, many others, and BMW (and Porsche) was evolving as a maker of nicely styled and technically superior cars.

 

About this time a fork in the road led in 2 directions. Honda and similar companies were developing their "econo-boxes" which with hatchbacks, would within 15 years become the choice among suburbanites. The other road led to muscles cars(1965-1980), family sized bodies with over-sized hearts. Many families had one of each in their driveways, with a definite gender preference!

 

Along the way during this first 100 years, we had Wankel Rotary engines which some thought might catch on,  power assist everything, then Engine Control modules, seat belts (and many safety items like ABS )and too many developments to count.

 

The past 30-50 years have been dominated by thoughts of replacing I/C engines largely with hybrids of full EV's. As for evolution, quality control has improved, and electronics and technical developments (synthetic oils, radial tires, AI) have led to reduced regular maintenance and more refined cars. 

 

But much like the telephone I have in my house today with a "landline", the concept of the phone has not really changed in 100+ years. I say the same for cars, today they are just a much more highly refined version of Benz and Daimler's vision of 1886?

[1933 Lincoln v12]

Interesting thread advice given here, I'm guessing the OP is not a serious one, indeed, OP car looks like it has already been restored. Won't be surprised if we never hear back.

[Car stuff under the tree??]

When my 4 sons were young (oldest is now 48, youngest 37) I made them a 16' 2-lane race track for hot wheels etc, modeled on the "cub car" tracks of that time, but track long since gone. So now I have a 2yr old grandson next door so figured it was time to introduce him to car racing. This track is 12' long, folds to 6' for tucking under sofa/bed, and sure was a big hit with him and his cousins (and their dads). Pretty easy project for anyone with a bit of woodworking tools, used some scrap hinges lying around, grooved a piece of 1x4 in center to add a 1/8" lane division, and some finger jointed door stop for outer edges. About 17" high at starting end. As my kids got older it was still used, and by then they learned a bit of tweaking (lubricant, weight) made cars go faster.  

[Here’s a fun one — Who bought a car for under $ 100 ???]

During my third summer job during university days in 1966, I was working as an Instrument Man (surveyor) on a large construction project, and the guy I was replacing was heading back home and did not want to take his car with him. I was driving a 1960 Ford Consul (paid $400 for it in 1965), and he asked me if I wanted to buy his car. "What are you selling"? Well he said, its a 1950's Karmann Ghia souped up with a Corvair engine conversion. come to the parking lot for a look. Sure enough, it had been properly modified, with a conversion kit that enabled mating of engine to VW transmission, and used a Chevrolet starter. "How much do you want"? How about $100, I'm flying out tomorrow. Deal. 

 

As you might expect, the KG was about 400 lbs lighter than a Corvair, and the engine upgrade boosted horsepower from about 50 to 80. The great little car would really run, and I drove it through 1969 when my Dad pulled the engine for a refit. Always thought I might buy one again some day. 

[Car stuff under the tree??]

Too big to go under the tree! When my 4 sons (and their significant others) asked what I wanted for Christmas 3/4 weeks ago I said I didn't need anything other than time with family. A couple noticed my recently purchased "cycle style fender blanks" and asked what they were worth. I told them about $200 apiece and so yesterday I got $200 from 2 of them. Shoulda said $500 apiece, which is what it will be by the time they are beaded and ready to fit. Every little bit helps!

[Cylinder Head Retorque]

curious what ft/lbs you are torqueing the head bolts. On my '31 Chrysler CD8 (240CI) I was advised to be cautious of over-torqueing after I did the valves and installed a new gasket (old style, copper asbestos). Gradually re-torqued in a set of stages, 50, 60, 70 lbs etc using sequence pattern recommended. I think my studs were 7/16". No leaks after a couple of warmups, but engine has not been run for more than a few minutes. I plan to re-torque after next run, but was advised to be careful about going above 75 ft/lbs, not sure what recommendation is for your engine. 

[1931 Chrysler Imperial Parking Brake Relining]

While it may need to be used for an emergency stop at some point, 99.9% of the time they are neither on, nor when they are on, they simply act as a clamp, not really under any duress. So any thickness left is usually more than adequate to hold the car when parked, say on a hill. But, I suppose a  new lining can be some comfort. BTW, they are adjustable if the issue is about lever not being far enough forward, a pretty simple proceedure, 

[Need help identifying this carriage]

I'm looking at rear end, independent suspension, inner and outer knuckle/U joints, vertical spring leaves and coils, etc. but I don't see any steering gear at rear. You said 4 wheel steering, can you indicate how rear steering works?

[Advice wanted 31 Plymouth Convertible Coupe]

Please change title to Plymouth. As for the one for sale, regrettably there are hot rodders who will happily pay $4K-$6K just for the sheet metal. That means anyone interested in buying the car to restore is paying a premium above this. Having said this, it is a Convertible which most restorers prefer to start with, and appears complete. $10K-$15K in mechanical refreshing would make for a nice survivor. A full restoration, perhaps add another 50K.

[Year/Make/Model identification from an old photo]

From the internet, here is a similar photo of a 1951 Ford truck, suggesting photo is early '50's.

[Aussie 1930 Chrysler 66 Tourer Restoration.]

Your attention to details and workmanship has been enjoyable to see. One of the engineering challenges of those days was getting a vacuum operated wiper on these folding or opening windshields, how to route the vacuum line, and how to get motor to clear the top fabric without obstructing the driver's view. I suspect many owners removed the assembly eventually.

 

For my '31 CD8 Roadster, the windshield both tilted and folded flat, adding to the challenge. Chrysler used a groove in the lower stanchion to take a copper line flush with inner edge of stanchion. A pair of holes in the pivot allowed the vacuum to carry to the upper stanchion where a second groove allowed a flush copper tube to go up and eventually out into passenger compartment, where a rubber hose crossed over to wiper mechanism. As shown in the early factory photo, the rubber hose was not a very sophisticated look compared to rest of car's details, but since windshield could pivot at top mount, they needed some sort of flexible joint. Note my post with a bit of the lower original copper line still in place.

[Can anyone ID year of tire??]

I'm guessing las for digits are 0972, September 1972.

[Brightwork. Polished or rechromed?]

I have a friend who has a nice set of buffing wheels set up and a variety of powders/pastes to polish up stainless. The results can be very nice. mind you, it requires pieces to be removed from car, and a little bit of trial and error to get a uniform sheen. This method will expose and highlight some little dings not often obvious in a original piece, but usually not many ways to remove dings without making things worse unless you have a lot of hand tools for tapping things smooth and leather stuffed bags. The nice thing about polished stainless, is once refinished, they will shine for a long time.