c49er
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Posts posted by c49er
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Royal and Windsor use 11X2" brakes.
Bob
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The top is electrically operated by twin screw drive top motors- one each side of the car. Yes you need 6 volt power to them or just pull the clevis pins at the top of the screw drive shafts so you can manually pull the top up.
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Try JC Auto Restoration in Lynnwood Washington.
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I have one and love it. Here is the paper work....
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Here is a pic of a 1942 S10 early vacuum operated M-4. Late 42's had a piston type shift to replace the more trouble some vacuum type shifter.
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Don't worry Rusty they won't!
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I hope the car turns out OK for you. I used to work on them a lot. They were not the best as for reliability. And they seemed to be fluid leakers too-trans and valve cover. Good luck! Oh and don't let people put their fingers in the top gap between the door and rear quarter panel as that gap opens and closes when driving over very uneven road to driveways ect. Often times the owners had to park the car on a flat road surface to be able to get the top to pull up completely to the windshield header. The bodies were not engineered too well for strength.
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You need to be careful with theIndustrial Chrysler engines. The manifolds could be different as could the water pump and 8 bolt crankshaft stickout. I'll post some pictures this weekend of what the 1949-50 Chrysler engine should look like. I have gotten into trouble more than once on Chrysler Industrial engines. I'm pretty sure it will not be a direct bolt in.
Bob
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I nominate Rusty to be the answer chairman for all FD/FTDM5/M6 questions. Round and round it goes!
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Maybe a better search of this site will provide a proper answer. A fluid drive does not use a torque multiplication coupling !
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A couple poor pics of a 42 S10 DeSoto radio/center dash.
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Sorry I no longer have the three sill mats. I just sold them.
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The hex shaped switch looks the same as a 1952-54 Plymouth/Dodge overdrive lock out switch or also the Chrysler/Dodge/DeSoto M-6 Transmission interupter switch. I have never seen that type of solenoid though.
Picture of a 50-52 Chrysler M-6 transmission interupter switch.
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You are talking about the rubber portion ribbed mat? I might have one or two that are good off a 1948 Windsor 4 door.
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Did it work ok before the after market import kit? Is it 6V or 12V? If the M-6 system has no power at all to it, it will upshift imediately and stay in high 4th gear until you come to a complete stop and hold the clutch in, wait 5 seconds or so and it will pull out of 4th automatically with no torque load on the direct clutch gear and sleeve.
The ignition system needs to be "killed" for a split second to relieve torque on the direct speed clutch gear so it can pull out of 4th gear on a throttle forced kick down and during a auto downshift.
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Your car should be run at as low of pressure as you can . Especially if you have the original honey comb radiator. I run mine at zero to save the cores on all my 40's Mopars.
In 1950 or 51 was the 1st year of pressure @ 4 lbs for your car though.
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I'm fasinated by the Dodge truck engine picture c49er posted...........Dual carbs! I'd like to know more about it.
It's a 1953 Dodge truck 413 engine.
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I have 1946-8 Chryslers too. I love em... all that luscious chrome and dash plastic, plus wood if you have a woodie...
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Yes Rusty..
The only bell housings for Chryslers was the FD longer housing. Either use the FD coupling and clutch with a FD 3 speed or use a lon input shaft FD 3 speed and make up a special longer input shaft bearing retainer for the longer bell housing. 1953-56? dodge cars used a weird real long input shaft bearing retainer and long throw out bearing and sleeve assembly-about 10" long. I have seen them on ebay.
Some pics of a Mopar six and 323 eight rear block mounting and bolt patterns and a mix of Mopar flathead sixes.
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Rusty...
The Chrysler industrial engines could be different but it's probably a 1947 or earlier engine. 2BBL engines were built up through 1947 as std in the chryslers. In 1948 a 1BBL carb was used on the 2 BBL intake with an adapter. A new single bore intake was used on 1949 and the 1950 models-last year of the eight. Most all parts are available to rebuild the 323 eight,except for the crank gear. You have to do some searching though!
The eight cylinder crank has a eight hole crank flange but you can bolt a "4" bolt 6 cylinder flywheel to it. You cannot put a six flathead bell housing to the eight block. The bolt pattern and shape is completely different. You would have to drill the rear of the "8" bell housing for the six cylinder 3 speed transmission. The 3 speed trans bearing retainer diameter could be different-smaller than the fluid drive 3 speed or M5/M6 transmission. When you need it I have a Edmunds aluminum dual 1 barrel intake manifold to put on your new straight eight project!
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It's a real common 1949-50 Chrysler Sraight eight problem. The hood hinge design was weak to say the least! Chrysler knew of this problem and came out with an assist spring kit to help the longer heavier eight hood hood stay up. You won't find one of these kits easily today although a friend of mine did once have one. If you lube the hinges the hood will not stay up! Mine stayed up till I lubed it. I use a stick to make sure the hood won't fall down. Hinges for the eight cylinder cars are the same as a chrysler six cylinder cars . You probably will have to try to find some good tight hinges or use a rod to hold the hood up.
Bob
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You fill it full assembled to the engine. Access is through the floor on the right side of the transmission tunnel hump. You probably already know this but just want the exact quanity spec. I have never seen one.
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JC Auto In Lynnwood Wa.
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Here is the oil requirement out of the 1953 Chrysler factory Owners manual- SAE 30 is recommended above 30 degrees. The 1952 chrysler is the same Rusty. Just sayin....!
I also looked at my 1957 Mobil oil chart and it doesn't show multi weights at all. I do believe later 50's is when the multi grades started.
1960 Dodge D50 Pickup
in Dodge Trucks
Posted
I thought D-50's came out in 1979!