c49er
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Posts posted by c49er
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I have the same tool with no instructions either. Came in a steel box. Bought it at a local swap meet for $20.00 a few years ago. Here it is in #6 cylinder in a Plymouth flathead. It's just a curiosity now days!
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I know the routine too Jay. It's a lot of moving cars to get them all back and ready for the long winter sleep! I use Go Jaks to move some of mine around the shop too. Sometimes seems too much. I'm just a temporary maintenence man for these cars for someone in the future!
Bob
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The swan necks are just for looks mostly. If the fuse on the transmission relay on the left fender well is burned out there is no 6V power for the kick down solenoid to dump oil pressure and the transmission will stay in high range till the car comes to a complete stop with the clutch pushed in.. In other words the transmission oil pressure stays up and holds it in high range even at a stop unless you push in the clutch to release the torque load on the direct speed blocker ring and shift collar. Check that fuse first and then try coming to a stop with the clutch pushed in and see if it shifts down once you come to a complete stop.
So remember this... if the fuse is burned out on the fender mounted transmission relay or the transmission wiring does not supply 6V power to the shifting solenoid, the M-5 transmission will imediately upshift to high range when you let off the gas for a second and stay in high range until you come to a complete stop with the clutch pushed in-then it will finally clunk back into low range after a second or two-oil pressure has to drop to zero.
If it does better and downshifts with the clutch depressed at a stop, get a factory shop manual and learn about your M-5transmission and how to service/diagnos and maintain it! You will be happy that you can take care of it your self. Otherwise to find a person who knows much about these transmissions is getting difficult now days.
Bob
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I am really interested in the Turn signal light assemblies. Could you post a couple pics of your parts or send them to my PM email.
Thank you.
Bob
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This tank on Ebay-didn't sell. I believe it's for your car. It has the vent tube as a 39 P-8 does. Listing#150946221754.
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I just googled it and imediately came up with this at Part# @ Auto Zone. The part # is what you need to search the seal from more suppliers. Egge probably has one as well as many others like Hagens. Price will be all over the board. So shop if price is of concern!
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T&C = real Town and Country convertible, sedan or barrel back Chrysler woody.
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I doubt very much that any woodie was originally done with "bird's eye maple". Very expensive, even back in the day, and difficult to work with. Very likely there was little if any attention paid to matching grain or the like. After all, woodies were built as utilitarian vehicles, not top of the line show pieces. I suspect what some are calling "bird's eye maple" is just run of the mill unsorted lumber. Restore a woodie or two and you will understand that quality was not the builders' primary concern. Doubt me? Visit and I will show you original Buick and Olds wood with defects, sloppy assembly line repairs and obvious mis-cuts. Nothing much prettier than an over restored woodie but over restored they are.
Some woodies were top of the line show pieces. The Town and Country from 1941-50 were examples of very fine wood craftsmanship. All fit up was near perfect when the cars were new.
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I did a DeSoto 236 a long time ago with out pulling the head. It had a broken valve spring. Saves a ton of time not having to pull the head and do all the clean up plus a new HG and coolant too.
Some pics of doing one an hour ago on a engine in my shop. The head was on. You screw the tappet adjuster down all the way to be able to remove the spring-not enough space to remove the screw on this 230 engine. Then push/hold the valve up while unscrewing the spring off the stem and along side of the adjusting screw. Took 1/2 hour to R&R the spring off and on.
Bob
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Maybe later today I'll go out to the shop and pull one on a parts engine. I'll post pics.
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You can do this job easily without pulling the head. Remove the sopark plug. Use a thin rod slightly bent to hold the valve head down. Pull the side cover. Tap on the valve spring retainer to break it loose from the 2 keepers- this makes it easy to lift up just the valve spring and retainer. Sometimes the retainer gets stuck to the two valve stem lock retainers. Use the side valve spring compressor to raise the spring and retainer while holding the valve head down. DO NOT let the two small valve stem keepers fall into the pan! I suggest not rotating the valve either. You will have to raise the valve and possibly need to back off the adjuster to pry the old spring out.
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Here is a picture of the frame specs out of the 1941-48 Chrysler shop manual with all the models specs.
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It's a friends car. I don't have any better pics of the radio. Last May when I went over to get it running for him I just took some quick pics of the car.
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Very rare. These were continued post war with only a different plastic center using the post war emblem. Note that the wheel was turned when the car was parked, so the wheel is upside down. Tough choice, do you have the wheel or dash upside down in the photo!
Sorry but I couldn't turn the wheel unless the car was rolling-Didn't want to hard knot the gemmer steering gear!
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1942 S10 5th Ave Package cigarette dispenser....
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Also could be oil on the E-Brake shoes at the rear of the trans. Oil will be dripping at the back of the Transmission brake drum. This Can cause the two 5" shoes to grab the drum and make the car sort of lurch and chatter either forward or in reverse. It just occured on my 1950 NewYorker in reverse gear. Never did it the week before! You need to jack the car up to check it out.
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The grilles are chrome plated. The red S10 Convert is still in my area.
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I have some Chrysler NOS bumper guards for your car. PM me if interested.
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Most all newer cars-2000 up use rollers on the cams so no need for Zinc although now timing chain failures are cropping up. A 1953 Plymouth hardly has any spring pressure but it wouldn't hurt if you cherish that P24 Plymouth.
Bob
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All your lights work correctly. The wipers are 2 speed electric. The switch at the top center of the dash has a built in circuit breaker. Sometimes if they have not been used for years a couple good taps on the dash with them turned on will make the blades move, then you know you have power and they might start working. If not back to the DVM and check for power ect. All 1941 on up chryslers used electric wiper motors and are pretty trouble free with occasional oiling of the linkages and pivots.
Bob
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I have seen old 40's Eaton 1350's and 1650's that had the tall shift lever through the floor. Vacuum shift is whats in my late 40's and early 50's Dodge trucks and was very common before the 12V electric shifts came out in 1956 or so-
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1061168 factory Mopar seal#.
Bob
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Yep, That breaker plate wire is an issue when they get old. You have to use a special very fine multi-strand wire too otherwise it won't last long because of the constant breaker plate movement.
Bob
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Gawd, I'm hope I'm steering rls120 right!
Bob
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in Chrysler Products - General
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I got mine just because I saw it in the shop manual time and time again. I have never needed one and as mentioned there are modern ways forchecking TDC. On a MoPar flathead I have never needed one in 40 years of rebuilding them. The tool is just cool looking!