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c49er

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Posts posted by c49er

  1. You should check the two pilot bushings in your replacement FD coupling before installing it and make sure they too are not worn out. You will need a small diameter precision bore guage or a used input shaft (no slop) to check the oilite bushings.

    I had a job on a 1942 S10 DeSoto about 10 years ago that the FD bushings had galled and siezed up. I replaced them and all is well to this day. Those oilite bushings should never have grease get into them as they are porous and prelubed with 10W oil from the manufacturer. I do apply a very small amount of light oil to the input shaft before installing the M4,5,6 transmissions.

    Be gentle with the FD unit and not over flex the FD driven plate as there is a copper bellows seal unit and graphite ring that can leak if you are rough with it. DO NOT hang the transmission (input shaft) on the coupling while trying to install the transmission! The FD coupling might leak afterwards if you do.

    Bob

  2. I'm not saying that for sure the free wheeling retainer or rollers is the problem but it does require total disassembly of the transmission to access. You said after stopping it will not go into low or reverse gears? Do you mean it will not actually shift completely into those gears- wont go into gear or just grinds when attemping to go into low or high range or reverse? Does the engine just fully and easily rev up in reverse or low/high range?

    Does the transmission E-Brake release fully? There is an early and a late type. Early is a band type and late is a enclosed E-Brake type using a drum and 2 brake shoes inside of the drum like on regular car drum brakes. If the ebrake hangs up going forward you will feel a jerking rattling noise if the ebrake is dragging and sometimes they can hang up enough so the car will not go forward untill you back up and then go forward again. But you will feel someting is wrong when trying to take off from a start. It is caused by oil on the band or shoes and semi tight adjustment.

  3. I think your issue is inside the transmission. Mainly in the direct speed blocker and sleeve or more likely the free wheeling section of the countershaft gear-free wheeling rollers are not locking up to transmit drive power through output shaft. With the wiring disconnected all the trans will do is imediately upshift and automatic downshifts wont happen. All the electrical just controls at what speed the trans will upshift or when it will down shift.

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  4. Try driving it with all the wiring disconnected from the solenoid, interupter and governer on the transmission. Tape the ends of the wiring when you do this. If the trans and Fluid Drive coupling are good it will always upshift but be slow to downshift when you come to a stop unless you push the clutch in. Try this and reprt back. Easy enough to do. I do this on all parts cars to check the M5 and M6 transmissions.

    Bob

  5. Might have a failing solenoid. Check the governer points too. Make sure the front and rear transmission cases are full of oil too. Are you looking at your 1954 Plymouth shop manual. Tells you everything you need to know. Also there are three Master Technicians booklets for the 1952-54 Plymouth OD's for operation and service plus trouble shooting.

  6. You will need to Pull the M-6 Hi/Lo 2 range trans off the back of the "FluidDrive" bell housing-held on by six bolts and nuts, also remove the driveline, linkages, wires ect. Pull the two rear motor mount bolts and clutch linkage too. The transmission just hangs down too low and will hit the cross member if you try to pull the complete engine assembly with the trans hooked up. The rest of the removal is as any other engine removal.

    Bob

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